Home Ideas

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.
When it comes to hardwood flooring, different styles possess varying levels of durability and sturdiness. Hardwoods (and so-called “softwoods,” which are sometimes used in homes or for outdoor porches) have a vast range of hardness that can profoundly impact their functionality and longevity in your living space. So how do you find out which woods are the hardest? The Janka Scale, of course.
Pronounced “yanka”, the Janka Scale was created by an Austrian-born wood researcher named Gabriel Janka. It assesses a wood’s resistance to wear and denting by measuring the force required to embed a BB-sized steel ball halfway into a sample. The “score” each type of wood receives is then recorded in “pound force” (lbf) on the Janka Scale.

Rule of thumb: 1,000 or above
The rule of thumb when shopping for hardwood flooring is that a Janka Scale score of 1,000 or above is the level of durability one wants in their home, and consulting the Janka Scale graphic makes it easy to see which woods rank where in the hierarchy. (If you plan to DIY your flooring, it’s also a great resource for understanding out how difficult it will be to nail into the wood when laying your boards.)
Knowing your hardwood’s rating on the Janka Scale comes in handy when you’re buying for a high-traffic room where a softer wood underfoot might be damaged by rowdy puppy paws or the crash of sporting equipment hitting the floor after practice.

Hickory and oak score high
Hickory and oak, as well as their variants, are two common hardwoods that score high on the Janka Scale and can easily withstand the pressures of an active household while still providing a timeless look. Hard maple is also a hardy option, but, as general contractor Joe Truini points out, it’s the type of wood used for basketball courts. That is to say: Unless you’re trying to give off a real March Madness vibe inside your home, it might be worth skipping.
Softer hardwoods like ash, cherry, and birch tend to have more subtle variations in their color and gradation, which can create a more sophisticated look, with a higher price tag. These hardwoods are ideal for flooring adults-only, low-traffic spaces, or homes where everyone respects the “no shoes in the house” rule. (This writer likes to think about putting down cherry hardwood as “retirement flooring.”)

Plano Natural Hickory 3/4 in. Thick x 3-1/4 in. Wide x Random Length Solid Hardwood Flooring (22 sq. ft. / case)
Bruce homedepot.com
$87.78

Red Oak Natural 3/4 in. Thick x 2-1/4 in. Wide x Random Length Solid Hardwood Flooring (18 sq. ft. / case)
Blue Ridge Hardwood Flooring homedepot.com
$64.61

High Gloss Birch Cherry 3/4 in. Thick x 4-3/4 in. Wide x Random Length Solid Hardwood Flooring (18.70 sq. ft. / case)
Home Legend homedepot.com
$93.30

Bay Point 7 mm T x 5.2 in W x 36.22 in L Waterproof Engineered Click Bamboo Flooring 13.07 sq. ft. sf/case)
LifeProof homedepot.com
$48.22

The Janka Scale can even reveal subtle hardness differences between woods that appear to be quite similar. “The most popular hardwood flooring out there is red oak, and it has a rating of about 1,290,” says Truini. But he also notes that white oak, which people don’t often consider, looks similar to red oak and has a rating of about 1,350—100 points higher than its cousin.

But hardness isn’t everything
Hardness, however, isn’t everything in a floor, and Truini recommends considering about the Holy Trinity of hardwood—aesthetic appeal, price point, and durability—when making a decision. “If you fall in love with American black walnut boards, which have a rating of 1,010, you should get them even though they don’t have a super-high [Janka] score,” he advises. Additionally, Truini lives in New England and sees pine floors in many houses. “They don’t have a rating higher than 1,000. It might dent a little more and it might wear a little more, but if you like the look of pine or walnut, you should do it.”

Consider the Holy Trinity of hardwood—aesthetic appeal, price point, and durability.

When it comes to durability, though, even the Janka Scale has its limits. The rating system doesn’t have any bearing on how well hardwood floors can stand up to stains from spilled Pinot Noir and marker accidents. That all comes down to the finish. “Whether you choose ash, oak, maple, or even walnut, they’re all hardwood,” Truini says. “They’re all relatively hard as far as just walking across it day-to-day. Even if the floor is bamboo [which has a hardness of 1,300 or more] and the finish is worn off the top, it’s going to stain.”
Having all the information possible at your fingertips before you make a major flooring decision is empowering, and will ensure the best decision for your family’s unique lifestyle. So let’s give a round of applause to Gabriel Janka, the patron saint of helping even the least math-inclined person grasp the complexities of hardwood hardness. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

So many of the investments that go into a house require maintenance, whether it’s ensuring that your appliances are regularly cleaned or your HVAC’S air filters get refreshed every couple of months. If you have hardwood floors at home, or are planning for their installation, the same logic applies. Over time, scuffs, discoloration and dings in the wood can develop, leaving your floors in need of a tune-up.
Fortunately, hardwood can be refinished up to 10 times over its lifespan, and if done properly, the job can last a decade. No matter if you decide to do it yourself or hire a professional, it’s best to know the basics before diving into the process. And with the right tools, all of which you can find at The Home Depot, your floors can get back to good-looking ASAP.

But first, a quick test
Make sure your floors actually need to be refinished using the (incredibly simple) water droplet test. Drip a few beads of water on the area you believe is in need of refinishing. If the water seeps into the wood, it means the wood fibers are exposed, and the floors likely does need to be refinished. If the water droplets bead up, it means your floors might just need a good clean and polish (a much simpler process!).

New England-based general contractor Joe Truini notes that stains are also a good indicator that hardwood might need to be refinished. “Wood is extremely porous, so if it’s worn, it’ll be susceptible to staining,” he says.
It goes without saying that if you perform the water droplet test and are at all unsure of the results, it’s best to call in a professional for expert advice.

Tools of the trade: Sanders and buffers
If go-time for refinishing is here — and you’re sure you feel comfortable with power tools — gather all the items you’ll need to successfully tackle the project (note: these are likely not in the average household toolbox). Review the process thoroughly, and note common mistakes ahead time, like overly-aggressive sanding.
“What you don’t want to do is wind up sanding a depression in the floor, because you can’t put the wood back,” says Truini. “There’s no real repair other than pulling up the flooring.”

Refinishing consists of sanding (left) the floor and then, most of the time, buffing (right) it.

Before any sander hits the wood, you’ll want to prep the room. Completely clear out all items, clean the floors, and remove any base molding to prevent damage. While most sanders have built in dust collection systems, it’s important to seal off the room where you’ll be working using plastic and sturdy painter’s tape — this prevents dust from spreading into other areas of the house. And always wear the right kind of protective equipment, like goggles and a dust mask. (For more information on installation safety, see letter I.)

An edger sander is your best bet for rough-sanding tight spots (like corners) and smaller spaces (like a closet), while a random orbital sander is recommended for non-professionals tackling the refinishing of a larger space on their own. (Rough-sanding removes the major nicks and stains in the wood.) Belt and drum sanders are bigger and can get the job done faster, but if you are worried about wielding one, leave it to the pros instead of risking damage to the floors. For an extra polished look, pros might use a floor buffer fitted with a fine-grit screen to rough-sand floors before staining or finishing them.
All of these tools can easily be rented at The Home Depot, and likely aren’t items you’re going to want to purchase for keeps (unless you’re ready to take your refinishing show on the road).
Plan to use the edger sander and orbital sander in tandem to ensure consistency throughout the wood, working a little bit at a time with the same grade of sandpaper in both tools. (Tip: You can practice your skills ahead of time on a piece of old plywood.)

The numbers associated with sandpaper grit indicate coarsness—the lower a number is, the coarser the grit. The higher a number is, the finer the grit will be.

Always move from a coarser grain sandpaper (like 36 grit, which will better remove old finishes and surface stains) to a finer grain sandpaper (like 60, 80 or 100 grit) to create a smooth surface. Don’t try and speed up the process by jumping from an ultra-coarse sandpaper to something super-fine: You likely won’t be removing enough old products to prepare the floors for a new stain and/or finish. Even more so than most flooring projects, patience is critical when refinishing hardwood. After sanding, you’ll want to do another thorough clean to prevent dust from affecting your HVAC system and appliances.

Stains add style to hardwood

After you’ve finished sanding and dust has been properly discarded, it’s time for something with less machinery: applying stain.
Stains are applied to the floor like paint and enhance the natural beauty of the wood. Select your stain based on the type of hardwood (different woods accept stains differently!) and, of course, how you’d like the floors to appear. Lighter stains can help give the room a more airy feeling and allow the wood grain to shine through, while darker stains can make the floors the focal point of the room and add sophistication. It’s also important to keep in mind that darker stains tend to show more dirt due to the contrast between dust particles (or crumbs, or pet hair) and the wood. Working in a small area at a time (think: 3 feet x 3 feet), apply the stain with a foam applicator pad, wiping up excess stain with a rag as you go.

The finishing touch that’s a must
Once the stain dries, a hardwood flooring finish seals the deal and protects all of your hard work. Even if you choose not to stain your floors in the step above, you must finish them. (It isn’t called refinishing for nothing!)
Finishes can be water-based polyurethane (which dries quickly and relatively clear), oil-based polyurethane (which dries slower and allows for more time to complete the job, but requires a respirator while working) or wood oils (which showcase the textured grain pattern of the wood). This is easiest to do with a large roller, working from the back of the room toward an exit door so that you don’t paint yourself into a corner (literally).

1 pt. Natural Danish Oil
Watco homedepot.com
$8.98

1 qt. Clear Semi-Gloss Oil-Based Interior Polyurethane
Varathane homedepot.com
$11.48

1 qt. Clear Satin Water-Based Interior Polyurethane (2-Pack)
Varathane homedepot.com
$32.96

9 in. x 1/2 in. Pro/Doo-Z High-Density Woven Roller Cover (3-Pack)
Wooster homedepot.com
$12.75

While there is patience required for this job if you plan to DIY, reviving your hardwood floors will breathe new life into your home and ensure they’ll be around for generations to come (knock on wood!). More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.
Let’s be real: the installation process for any type of flooring is always a complicated, time consuming, and deeply personal process. And while methods and materials vary wildly, whether you’re installing new wall-to-wall carpet in your bedroom or giving your sunroom a porcelain tile facelift, there are foundational tips for any type of flooring installation that will benefit both the health of the project and your own personal health, especially if you are going the DIY route. The Home Depot has products, tools, and even professional installers to help along the way.

Physical health: Always use protection
It might seem like there are dozens of tools out there, depending on what kind of flooring you’re putting down—miter saws, pneumatic nail guns, trowels, drill bits, and more. (See our T section for more on tools!) But the most essential instruments in your flooring arsenal are about protecting your health, not just getting the job done.

Gel-Foam Soft Cap Work Knee Pads
Husky homedepot.com
$24.97

First and foremost, invest in good quality kneepads. Sure, you might look like a ’90s rollerblading enthusiast, but putting pressure on your knees for long stretches of time can lead to short-term pain and long-term damage. (There’s actually a specific type of knee condition—prepatellar bursitis, also known as “floor-layer’s knee”—that is the bane of professional contractors.) You can purchase kneepads that are made specifically for flooring projects, with special features such as thigh supports, gel inserts, and varying cap styles (hard-cap, curved-soft, and flat-cap) that match how much movement you’ll be doing in the pads.

Goggles are also a must for anyone who values their optical health (which is, hopefully, everyone). There are many options on the market, but choosing a pair that meets the American National Standards Institute goggle guidelines—protecting against things like chemical splash and dust—will ensure peace of mind.

“Wear sturdy, closed-toed shoes, like a work boot, when working on any flooring project.”

Oh, and this probably goes without saying, but construction zones should always be flip-flop free. Wear sturdy, closed-toed shoes, like a work boot, when working on any flooring project.

Environmental health: Dust, VOCs, and eco-friendly products
Flooring is a messy business, and can release a lot of byproducts into the air over the course of an installation process. That’s why you should prepare the safest environment possible prior to beginning your work.
Begin by closing off the room you’ll be working in, using plastic and sturdy painter’s tape around doorways, air ducts, and windows to prevent debris and chemical smells from spreading to the rest of the house. (If there are multiple entries, designate one doorway the “entry and exit” place and keep all other access points sealed.)
Always wear a protective mask when doing any sort of flooring work, whether you are cutting wood or applying sealants, to protect your lungs from dust and chemicals. While many flooring products today pride themselves on possessing low or no volatile organic compounds (VOCs)—indeed, there are many beautiful low-VOC laminates on the market now, whereas, a decade ago, the options were slim—it’s always best to err on the side of caution and wear a mask.

10 ft. x 25 ft. Clear 6 mil Plastic Sheeting
HDX homedepot.com
$24.98

Scotch 1.88 in. x 30 yds. Tough Poly Hanging and Tarps Strength Duct Tape
3M homedepot.com
$5.97

N95 Professional Multi-Purpose Valved Respirator with Gasket (3-Pack)
Milwaukee homedepot.com
$14.97

12 Gal. 5.0-Peak HP NXT Wet/Dry Shop Vacuum with Filter, Hose and Accessories
RIDGID homedepot.com
$79.97

During hardwood installation projects, dust is a force to be reckoned with and must be treated as such. Consider renting a HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) vacuum and using it repeatedly throughout the project to suction up any lingering particles.
And remember, fans are mostly your friend. They can help keep temperatures well-regulated while working on vinyl or tiling projects in hot weather, and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends ventilating any freshly carpeted area for 72 hours after the project is complete. (Setting up fans willy-nilly in a hardwood installation, however, will just leave you with a whole lot of tiny dust tornados.)

Mental health: Extra, extra—give yourself extra time
It can be quite disheartening to read online that a flooring project should only take “about an afternoon” or “one day, total!” and realize on the morning of day three you’re not even close to being finished. Give yourself a little breathing room, and whatever the estimated “time to completion,” double it. If you finish it early? Great! If you don’t? There’s no need to stress that you’re not working hard enough or making fast enough progress. Your sanity will thank you.

Health of your home: Follow instructions, please!
There are those among us (this writer included) who are not inclined to read directions, and tend to forge ahead without knowing exactly what’s going on. With flooring projects, that’s a recipe for disaster. If a product includes manufacturer’s instructions—or rules for which products to use with certain types of flooring—always follow them to the letter. Otherwise, your house could be damaged permanently, you could lose your warranty on the product, and you’ll be left with a very expensive mess to clean up.

If a product includes manufacturer’s instructions, always follow them to the letter.

A good example of this is adhesive. Flooring adhesive is a type of permanent glue that bonds your flooring to the subfloor or underlayment. The type of adhesive best suited for your unique undertaking is determined by factors such as the condition of your substrate, the location of the room you’re rehabbing, and the flooring material you’ve selected. Whether you’re using vinyl, tile, or carpet, there’s a type of adhesive out there to match up with your product.
If you’re attaching to a concrete subfloor, for example, you’ll need a different type of adhesive than if you’re attaching to a plywood subfloor. If you’re installing flooring in an indoor-outdoor room—or a strictly outside space—you’ll need an adhesive that can handle the fluctuations of the elements.
If you follow the instructions and use an adhesive intended for carpet in an indoor-outdoor space that has vinyl, be prepared for a sticky mess on your hands. The bottom line: Always read the instructions and follow the manufacturer’s guidelines, for the health of your home.

Emotional health: Help (can be) on the way

While vinyl and laminate flooring tend to be easier to install on your own, other materials like hardwood, tile, and carpet may prove more trouble than their worth to DIY without the help of a professional. If things get too overwhelming (or if the kneepad-chic look isn’t really working for you), The Home Depot’s installation service team is always at the ready to launch a new flooring project for your family, or jump into the middle of one if things haven’t gone quite according to plan. They are the pros, after all. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Often cast aside as a style that doesn’t offer form and function, laminate is actually a jack-of-all-trades material that deserves serious consideration for your home.
Budget-friendly, hardwearing, and easy to install, laminate is the accessible flooring built to withstand pretty much anything and look good doing it, with plenty of options available at The Home Depot.
First, a few clarifications

Laminate is not the same as engineered hardwood, which has a plywood core and a thin veneer of actual hardwood on its surface (for more on hardwood — engineered and not — visit letter H). Instead, laminate is a type of flooring made up of several layers, detailed below from the bottom up:
A moisture-repelling base layer, often made from melamine or plastic, that gives the boards stability
A resin-soaked fiberboard “core” layer, which helps give laminate its signature dent-resistant properties
A “print” or “design” layer, where a pattern of the material the laminate will resemble — like a hardwood such as oak or natural stone — is placed
A protective “wear” layer of clear, hard plastic or resin that secures the print layer and coats the top
Thanks to its construction method, laminate’s design options are pretty much endless, from the “pattern” itself to the type of finish that makes it extra durable. Since the planks are pre-finished ahead of installation, there will be no unwelcome surprises about mismatched colors or differences in wood grain when it arrives.

It can stand up to (almost!) anything
Due to its layered method of production, laminate is one of the best materials on the market for high-traffic areas. High-quality laminate can be counted on to stand up to toy spills in living rooms and soccer cleat stampedes in entryways for at least a decade (and often two). However, it’s still important to take into consideration just how much repetitive motion the flooring will see, particularly when it comes to selecting the finish of the top “wear” layer.

Lansbury Oak 7 mm Thick x 8.03 in. Wide x 47.64 in. Length Laminate Flooring (23.91 sq. ft. / case)
TrafficMASTER homedepot.com
$11.71

Hayes River Oak 12mm Thick x 7-9/16 in. Wide x 50-5/8 in. Length Water Resistant Laminate Flooring (15.95 sq. ft./case)
Home Decorators Collection homedepot.com
$30.14

Outlast+ Paradise Jatoba 10 mm Thick x 5-1/4 in. Wide x 47-1/4 in. Length Laminate Flooring (13.74 sq. ft. / case)
Pergo homedepot.com
$38.33

The rule of thumb is to save “high gloss” laminate for less-busy spaces, and choose a more forgiving finish — like something low gloss, embossed, or one that’s been “hand-scraped” to look like wood — for places where a dog-and-cat wrestling match might break out.

Due to its method of production, laminate is one of the best materials on the market for high-traffic areas.

For additional help in selecting an appropriate product, consult the laminate abrasion class (AC) rating system, which was created in 1994 to help customers understand a certain product’s durability. Numerical rankings range from AC1 (laminate that is suitable for moderate wear, like a guest bedroom) to AC6 (laminate that is suitable for a public space, like a grocery store). Almost all laminates for home use will fall somewhere in between AC1 and AC3, a category of laminate designed for busy residential interiors. Any number above an AC3 is generally uncomfortably hard for normal at-home activities, like walking in socks, and definitely not what you want to feel underfoot when sneaking downstairs for a midnight bowl of ice cream.

Installation is a snap (and lock)
Like most engineered hardwood, the majority of laminate planks are installed using “click-and-lock” technology, interlocking securely atop a previously existing floor or subfloor without using any sort of adhesive, nails, or other agents. (It’s sometimes called a “floating floor” for this reason.) This approachable installation method — in addition to laminate’s reasonable price point — makes it a popular option for people who are on a budget or might want to DIY a flooring upgrade.

Pro Flooring Installation Kit for Vinyl, Laminate and Hardwood Flooring
Roberts homedepot.com
$32.55

“For this kind of floating floor, you need very few tools,” says general contractorJoe Truini. He notes that the tools you do need — like a tapping block to ensure boards are securely set in place — can easily be purchased in a kit. “You might not even need a saw, and could possibly just rent a laminate flooring cutter that looks like a giant paper-cutter guillotine.”Boards typically come in either 8 millimeter or 12 millimeter thickness, and unless the laminate is made with pre-attached underlayment, a high-quality underlayment is necessary for creating a walking surface that doesn’t feel uncomfortably hard and uncushioned. (Visit letter U to learn more about underlayment.) Generally speaking, thicker laminate is more forgiving in installation, which helps hide any dings or nicks in the subflooring, and feels more like hardwood. It’s also a strong contender for a place where actual hardwood can’t go: basements.

But, notably, it’s best to keep this flooring out of bathrooms and laundry rooms, since the majority of laminate doesn’t stand up well to pooling water.

Play by the rules

CKS01 Hardwood & Laminate Cleaning System Kit (with Terry Cloth Mop Cover) by
Bruce homedepot.com
$23.98

This might seem like a no-brainer but, particularly for laminate, do not skip over the manufacturers’ instructions — or risk potentially losing your warranty. This attentiveness doesn’t end after your floors have been beautifully installed by the book. On the contrary, it’s every bit as important, if not more so, for how you tackle cleaning and upkeep over the lifespan of the flooring.

“Laminate floors are more resistant, but that doesn’t mean that they’re bullet proof,” says Carolyn Forte, Good Housekeeping’s Home Appliances & Cleaning Products Director. She notes that most laminate manufacturers recommend specific cleaning products for their floors. “The point is that you don’t want to damage the finish, and you also don’t want to leave a residue, because residue will dull the floor.” More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Beauty and durability can sometimes be at odds when it comes to interiors. Heirloom wool armchairs with hand-embroidered peacocks? Beautiful, but easily damaged. Rubber workout tiles in your basement home gym? They get the job done, but not exactly what you’d put in the living room. Finding that rara avis of product design that combines pretty with practical is thrilling, and porcelain tile is both.
Made from a finer, denser clay, and fired at a higher temperature, porcelain is naturally harder and less porous than other kinds of ceramic tiles. This makes it ideal for sinks and other bathroom fixtures, as well as flooring — and The Home Depot stocks hundreds of styles, from simple white penny tiles and subtle squares to exciting patterns and elegant marble impersonators. But style isn’t its only special quality — here are four reasons why it sits in a category of its own.

A wet environment is no problem

Wind River Beige 6 in. x 24 in. Porcelain Floor and Wall Tile (448 sq. ft. / pallet)
Florida Tile Home Collection homedepot.com
$721.73

Fine-grained and ultra-smooth, porcelain is far more impervious to water than other types of ceramic tile. While the bulk of ceramic tile receives a glaze that works to repel water, porcelain is the only type that must have a water absorption rate of 0.5 or lower as defined by the American Society for Testing and Materials. This means it’s a clear choice for bathrooms, mud rooms, or any space where a more porous surface might be harmed by repeat exposure to water droplets, splashes, or wet towels left on the floor. (Hey, it happens.) Porcelain is also the strongest option for any outdoor tiling situation — if you’re in an outdoor-tile-friendly climate zone, that is. (For more on outdoor flooring, see letter O!)

It’s hardier than other tile

Since porcelain is one of the hardest types of tile, it’s a go-to for high-traffic areas. Its superpower is withstanding whatever life throws its way without showing signs of wear, whether that’s attempted scuffings, stain-making incidents, and dings from dropped dishes. If a chip does pop out, porcelain has a steadfast color throughout the tile, minimizing the visibility of the damage. Most other ceramic tiles, on the other hand, have a different color beneath the visible glaze. (Encaustic tile is an exception to this, and to learn more about it, visit letter E.)
Of course, being the toughest tile on the block does come with some downsides. It’s particularly heavy and somewhat more difficult to cut than regular ceramic tile, so it can be tricky to install (but easier than natural stone if that’s the look you want). And while it follows all the same grouting and tile-laying protocol we’ve outlined in letter G, it’s important to guarantee that the underlayment can support the weight of the tile itself (particularly if you’re working on an upper-level of a building or in an older home).

There are so many patterned options

Madison Hex Matte 11-7/8 in. x 10-1/4 in. x 6mm Cool White with Black Dot Porcelain Mosaic Tile
Merola Tile homedepot.com
$3.89

If you’ve decided to use porcelain tile, but also want a geometric pattern for added interest, Jessica Pleasants, project manager at Godwin Residential Construction in New York City, cautions against getting too wild with your Escher-like creation. “It’s important to consider how the design is going to look in four or five years,” she advises, noting that patterns can look dated in a short amount of time. “If you want to use a geometric pattern, go with something a little bit more subtle that has that geometric look but isn’t overly bold.”

It’s a chameleon-like material
Porcelain is also much-beloved because it can mirror practically any type of natural stone, or even a wood grain, while providing durability and longevity.

12 in. x 24 in. Kolasus White Polished Porcelain Floor and Wall Tile (16 sq. ft./case)
Home Decorators Collection homedepot.com
$31.84

“I think porcelain tile is a good alternative to marble because it’s less porous and easier to maintain,” says interior designer Laura Umansky, who loves how easy it is to care for porcelain with simple mopping and soap-and-water spot treatment.

General contractor Joe Truini used porcelain tile that looks like tumbled granite in one of his bathrooms. He says the difference between natural stone materials and porcelain copycats comes down to simplicity of installation, uniform tile cuts, and durability. “The downside of natural stone is Mother Earth made it a billion years ago, and someone carved it out of the earth: there are defects in it,” he says. And yet, he points out, natural stone is often far more expensive than porcelain. “The [porcelain version] is uniform in strength, thickness, and size. It makes it easier to lay.” More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

When jetting off for a saltwater-soaked beach getaway or a woodsy romantic weekend isn’t feasible, an at-home outdoor space can step in (and step up!) and become the low-key backyard oasis you need, minus the plane ticket. And while recreating the feeling of sand between your toes probably isn’t realistic, choosing the right flooring for your outdoor area is the first step towards making every day feel (kind of) like a vacation on your home turf.
Below are several outdoor flooring materials available at The Home Depot to consider when turning your outdoor space into a just-out-the-door getaway.

Area Rugs
A simple-to-execute option is to incorporate an outdoor-friendly area rug, and The Home Depot has a number from which to choose. Natural fibers, like jute, are durable and have an earthy, neutral look, while patterned outdoor rugs can bring a burst of color to a home’s exterior.
Look for rugs that are designated “moisture-proof” or “water-resistant” and, if possible, keep them under awnings, umbrellas, or other covered areas to ensure the least amount of fading from the sun’s rays.

Tile

Vulkon Nero 24 in. x 24 in. Porcelain Paver Tile (14 pieces / 56 sq. ft. / pallet)
MSI homedepot.com
$340.34

Tile is another go-to option to consider when designing your backyard paradise — but it only works well under the right conditions.

Tile floors are commonplace in Florida sunrooms and indoor-outdoor lounging areas across the Southwest, but they are susceptible to cracking in the seasonal cycles of colder climates. Tile is great, says Clements, in “places where you don’t have a freeze and thaw situation, and where you use an appropriate outdoor tile — one that’s not slippery when it gets wet.” He adds that you also need to use the proper adhesives for exterior applications of tile, which differ from the indoor versions.If you live in a more temperate climate, brick is a hardier option that can provide a similar feel to tile while standing up to the weather. It’s naturally slip-resistant, unquestionably durable, and in it for the long haul.
Artificial Grass

Deluxe Artificial Grass Synthetic Lawn Turf,15 ft. W
RealGrass homedepot.com
$46.50

Climate aside, if you’re itching to turn a patch of steamy backyard concrete into something a little bit greener, artificial grass (also called “artificial turf”) might be your flooring of choice. Available in large rolls or plug-and-play tiles, artificial turf is an appealing option if you’re yearning for a hint of greenery, but don’t want the trouble of jackhammering asphalt, sodding, watering, and then (of course) mowing.

But don’t envision this as the astroturf of baseball fields. The artificial turf of today is truly grass-like — nothing plasticky or stiff about it! — and is perfect for kids and pets who romp around. (Many versions even come with built-in cooling technology). The interlocking tiles are particularly convenient because there is no stapling or adhesive required, and they can fit into almost any space, from a high-rise balcony to a full-scale outdoor kitchen. They’re also self-draining, and as for the maintenance? Let’s just say you’ll never have to rev up the weed-whacker.

Composite Wood

15/16 in. x 5-1/4 in. x 12 ft. Brown Square Edge Capped Composite Decking Board
Veranda homedepot.com
$19.77

If you’re interested in the look of hardwood without the potential hassle and expense of upkeep, composite wood decking — made from a blend of sawdust and plastic — is a budget-friendly option that’s appealing to buyers for its stain-repelling status and resistance to UV light (aka no fading). It retains more heat than traditional hardwood, though, so is best for areas that have at least a partially-shaded section.

Hardwood

As a general rule, the hardwoods that work for indoor flooring aren’t the best for an outdoor porch or patio area. Even pressure-treated pine, which you’ve probably stood on while barbecuing at a friend’s house, often turns a yellow-green color after exposure to the elements over the years.
Red cedar is a warm, brick-hued hardwood that’s highly resistant to all outside forces that might cause harm, including sun, cold, rain and bugs! It even develops a sophisticated, silvery tinge over the years. (We like to think of it as the “silver fox” of outdoor flooring.)
Redwood also holds up well against the elements and is highly rot-resistant, particularly when treated with a clear sealant.
Southern yellow pine is another contender when pressure-treated. (Pressure-treated wood has been penetrated with preservative chemicals that help it stand up to the elements.)
In all cases, take into consideration whether the outdoor area will be fully or partially covered (if only partially, expect some fading overtime) as well as the wood’s hardness and durability (for more on this, see letter J for Janka Scale).
Moreover, selecting the appropriate flooring for an outdoor space—unlike indoor flooring, which is much less impacted by what’s going on outside your house—depends largely upon geography. For example, general contractor Mark Clement notes that, living in New England, he often sees century-old porches that were built with Douglas fir. But, he says, “in warmer climates, you have to worry more about insects, so you’re going to need pressure-treated lumber.” More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Even though you don’t see it after installation, the quality of any tiling project rests on mortar, the thick cement and sand adhesive that secures tiles to a home’s subfloor, or substrate. Selecting the right mortar is paramount, especially if you’re planning to DIY a tile floor. You might not want a version that dries so fast you can’t get tiles secured in the right place, but you also don’t want a process that drags on so long that you’re quite literally watching the floor dry.
Fortunately, there’s a type of mortar out there for every tiling project — many of which are available at The Home Depot — as well as some handy quick-setting products that don’t require it at all.

The makeup of mortar
Made out of cement, sand and a water-retaining agent, mortar keeps tiles firmly grounded, typically with a layer between a 3/16” and a 1/4”. Its mud-like texture also creates a connective barrier between the tiles and the subfloor, ensuring that excess moisture doesn’t leach through.
Much like grout, which fills the gaps in between tiles, mortar is available in mix-on-site or pre-mixed varieties, and which version you choose often depends on the space you’re working with and the type of tile that’s being used. (Just remember that once you mix up the dry version, you’ll have to move quickly to use it all or discard what’s left over!)

Modified vs. unmodified
The most common type of mortar used for indoor flooring projects is a modified thinset mortar. (You’ll find many companies and contractors use the terms “thinset” and “mortar” interchangeably: confusing, but common.)
The Layers of Tile Flooring

Made with plastic or latex polymers mixed in — which gives the mortar increased long-term performance and bond strength — modified thinset mortar repels mold growth and can really stand up to the elements with its flexibility: no shrinking or contracting based on changes in temperature or moisture levels. These properties make modified thinset mortar ideal for flooring areas of the home that will have to stand up to splashing or pooling water, like bathrooms (or tiled shower floors), laundry rooms and mud rooms. A soaking wet dog plodding in from the rain won’t even phase it.
Unmodified thinset mortar doesn’t have additional polymers in the mix, but is the mortar of choice in some specific circumstances, like when installing natural stone or when you’re working with a product that uses a moisture barrier over the subfloor. Both modified and unmodified thinset can also even out any small imperfections in the substrate before the tile goes down and is ready to be grouted.
For larger tiles, a medium-bed mortar is the way to go, which can be applied up to ½” thick and creates a significant barrier between the substrate and the tile itself, useful if a settling foundation shifts or cracks over time. Due to its use of coarse sand, though, medium-bed mortar takes significantly longer to dry than thinset: up to 72 hours.

Make it quick (setting)
So, when does it make sense to use quick-setting mortar, or no mortar at all?
When it comes to quick-setting mortar, small jobs like a shower floor and repairs are a great place to start for homeowners. The sweet spot for product quality and fast installation is a fortified, quick-setting mortar like SpeedSet thinset mortar, which dries in roughly six hours time.
(It’s worth pointing out that one of the most prominent “quick dry” options is epoxy tile mortar, which is water and chemical resistant with shock-proof bonding ability. But this product’s greatest strengths is why it’s typically only used by professional installers: the mortar sets completely in about two hours once spread, and its “pot life” — how long it can stay in the bucket without hardening — is only about 45 minutes.)
And then there are new, innovative products like Quictile by Daltile, which flips the whole notion of mortar on its head.

QuicTile 12 in. x 24 in. Calacatta Marble Polished Porcelain Locking Floor Tile (9.6 sq. ft. / case)
Daltile homedepot.com
$47.90

This type of tile uses three simple steps and what is known as the “floating floor” method to give you brand new flooring in as little as a day. Simply lay down the correct foam underlayment on top of an existing hard surface, click together the tiles of your choice (like marble-looking porcelain or driftwood-esque porcelain), seal with grout, and it’s a wrap. No need to rip out old flooring, no waiting on mortar to dry, and no racing against the clock if it starts hardening too quickly.
Whether you’re quick-setting, going a more traditional route, or trying a time-saver like Quictile, it bears repeating (yet again!) to always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines, and make sure to measure properly to ensure the tile doesn’t end up obstructing any doorways or thresholds. Your tile (and sanity) will thank you. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

If you’re accustomed to figuring out or completing home improvement projects on your own, knowing when to ask for help can, er, be a challenge. But one small slip-up, or one warning sign ignored could potentially snowball into a much bigger issue down the road, which might not only derail your project, but put your whole house in danger — particularly when you’re talking about flooring.
The Home Depot has a team of licensed flooring installers who can help with anything from carpet to hardwood. But it’s helpful to know what situations might constitute a red flag — here are 5 problems to be aware of that could necessitate help from experts (be they an exterminator or contractor).

Problem: You’re removing potentially hazardous old flooring
Many types of flooring and flooring adhesives common in the mid-20th century didn’t adhere to the environmental and health-conscious practices of today. This is particularly true when it comes to asbestos black mastic: a type of adhesive used well into the late 1970s that contains a fibrous material (asbestos) which can cause mesothelioma, a type of cancer.
If you remove old vinyl, tile or linoleum and see a black, thick adhesive, do not try and scrape it up, scrub it or grind it off. Instead, ask an expert to come in and assess the situation. If it is asbestos black mastic, a professional will likely advise you to leave it in place — not remove it!— and cover it with sealant and new flooring.

Problem: Your house has serious structural issues

Ah, older homes: they’re full of charming details and enough character that we can overlook their minor imperfections — until those flaws turn into major problems. If you’re preparing for a flooring job and notice any of the following, it’s best to call in an expert:

A sloping or sagging floor, which can indicate weakened or broken floor joists
Doors and windows that stick when you try to close them, which can indicate issues with the home’s foundation
Paint that’s blistering on the walls, which can point to excess moisture in places it shouldn’t be, like the walls and floors
Major cracks in existing tile, which could signal foundational issues
A chimney that’s leaning significantly or has cracks in the external mortar
Fixer-uppers can be a once-in-a-lifetime chance to make an existing, perhaps historic structure wholly your own, but if the bones of the house aren’t right, you’re likely in for future headaches.

Problem: You notice some creepy crawlers

No one likes to think about little critters scuttling into their homes, but when it comes to flooring projects, some types of bugs are more important to check for than others. Namely: termites. If you see any collections of small, translucent wings around the perimeter of your home, tiny holes in your structural wood or “mud tunnels” through damaged wood, termites have probably taken up residence, and need to be dealt with promptly.

Problem: You don’t understand the instructions
Most flooring materials — laminate, vinyl, grout, you name it — come with extremely specific instructions for how to complete a proper installation, and must be followed to the letter or you risk losing your warranty (yikes!). If you feel completely lost after digging into the instruction manual, don’t take a “try it and see!” approach. Ask an expert for a consultation before you make a mistake that can’t be taken back easily.

Problem: You have water issues

Water damage is a nightmare for homeowners, particularly when it comes to flooring. If there’s any history of water damage inside a home (basement flooding, slow-leaking refrigerator line, etc.) or you notice any signs of water damage — water rings on the ceiling or walls, a mildew-like smell inside the room where you’re planning to work — it’s best to ask an expert to assess the situation before you lay the first tile.

Problem: Your safety is in jeopardy
If there’s ever a point where you feel in over your head — a tool that’s a little too unfamiliar, a material that’s become unmanageable, or you run into a potentially dangerous unforeseen problem (like sketchy electrical wiring or crude, previously-done renovations), call in an expert to help. There’s no need to try and be a hero. More