Aurelia Butler

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

So many of the investments that go into a house require maintenance, whether it’s ensuring that your appliances are regularly cleaned or your HVAC’S air filters get refreshed every couple of months. If you have hardwood floors at home, or are planning for their installation, the same logic applies. Over time, scuffs, discoloration and dings in the wood can develop, leaving your floors in need of a tune-up.
Fortunately, hardwood can be refinished up to 10 times over its lifespan, and if done properly, the job can last a decade. No matter if you decide to do it yourself or hire a professional, it’s best to know the basics before diving into the process. And with the right tools, all of which you can find at The Home Depot, your floors can get back to good-looking ASAP.

But first, a quick test
Make sure your floors actually need to be refinished using the (incredibly simple) water droplet test. Drip a few beads of water on the area you believe is in need of refinishing. If the water seeps into the wood, it means the wood fibers are exposed, and the floors likely does need to be refinished. If the water droplets bead up, it means your floors might just need a good clean and polish (a much simpler process!).

New England-based general contractor Joe Truini notes that stains are also a good indicator that hardwood might need to be refinished. “Wood is extremely porous, so if it’s worn, it’ll be susceptible to staining,” he says.
It goes without saying that if you perform the water droplet test and are at all unsure of the results, it’s best to call in a professional for expert advice.

Tools of the trade: Sanders and buffers
If go-time for refinishing is here — and you’re sure you feel comfortable with power tools — gather all the items you’ll need to successfully tackle the project (note: these are likely not in the average household toolbox). Review the process thoroughly, and note common mistakes ahead time, like overly-aggressive sanding.
“What you don’t want to do is wind up sanding a depression in the floor, because you can’t put the wood back,” says Truini. “There’s no real repair other than pulling up the flooring.”

Refinishing consists of sanding (left) the floor and then, most of the time, buffing (right) it.

Before any sander hits the wood, you’ll want to prep the room. Completely clear out all items, clean the floors, and remove any base molding to prevent damage. While most sanders have built in dust collection systems, it’s important to seal off the room where you’ll be working using plastic and sturdy painter’s tape — this prevents dust from spreading into other areas of the house. And always wear the right kind of protective equipment, like goggles and a dust mask. (For more information on installation safety, see letter I.)

An edger sander is your best bet for rough-sanding tight spots (like corners) and smaller spaces (like a closet), while a random orbital sander is recommended for non-professionals tackling the refinishing of a larger space on their own. (Rough-sanding removes the major nicks and stains in the wood.) Belt and drum sanders are bigger and can get the job done faster, but if you are worried about wielding one, leave it to the pros instead of risking damage to the floors. For an extra polished look, pros might use a floor buffer fitted with a fine-grit screen to rough-sand floors before staining or finishing them.
All of these tools can easily be rented at The Home Depot, and likely aren’t items you’re going to want to purchase for keeps (unless you’re ready to take your refinishing show on the road).
Plan to use the edger sander and orbital sander in tandem to ensure consistency throughout the wood, working a little bit at a time with the same grade of sandpaper in both tools. (Tip: You can practice your skills ahead of time on a piece of old plywood.)

The numbers associated with sandpaper grit indicate coarsness—the lower a number is, the coarser the grit. The higher a number is, the finer the grit will be.

Always move from a coarser grain sandpaper (like 36 grit, which will better remove old finishes and surface stains) to a finer grain sandpaper (like 60, 80 or 100 grit) to create a smooth surface. Don’t try and speed up the process by jumping from an ultra-coarse sandpaper to something super-fine: You likely won’t be removing enough old products to prepare the floors for a new stain and/or finish. Even more so than most flooring projects, patience is critical when refinishing hardwood. After sanding, you’ll want to do another thorough clean to prevent dust from affecting your HVAC system and appliances.

Stains add style to hardwood

After you’ve finished sanding and dust has been properly discarded, it’s time for something with less machinery: applying stain.
Stains are applied to the floor like paint and enhance the natural beauty of the wood. Select your stain based on the type of hardwood (different woods accept stains differently!) and, of course, how you’d like the floors to appear. Lighter stains can help give the room a more airy feeling and allow the wood grain to shine through, while darker stains can make the floors the focal point of the room and add sophistication. It’s also important to keep in mind that darker stains tend to show more dirt due to the contrast between dust particles (or crumbs, or pet hair) and the wood. Working in a small area at a time (think: 3 feet x 3 feet), apply the stain with a foam applicator pad, wiping up excess stain with a rag as you go.

The finishing touch that’s a must
Once the stain dries, a hardwood flooring finish seals the deal and protects all of your hard work. Even if you choose not to stain your floors in the step above, you must finish them. (It isn’t called refinishing for nothing!)
Finishes can be water-based polyurethane (which dries quickly and relatively clear), oil-based polyurethane (which dries slower and allows for more time to complete the job, but requires a respirator while working) or wood oils (which showcase the textured grain pattern of the wood). This is easiest to do with a large roller, working from the back of the room toward an exit door so that you don’t paint yourself into a corner (literally).

1 pt. Natural Danish Oil
Watco homedepot.com
$8.98

1 qt. Clear Semi-Gloss Oil-Based Interior Polyurethane
Varathane homedepot.com
$11.48

1 qt. Clear Satin Water-Based Interior Polyurethane (2-Pack)
Varathane homedepot.com
$32.96

9 in. x 1/2 in. Pro/Doo-Z High-Density Woven Roller Cover (3-Pack)
Wooster homedepot.com
$12.75

While there is patience required for this job if you plan to DIY, reviving your hardwood floors will breathe new life into your home and ensure they’ll be around for generations to come (knock on wood!). More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Flooring trends may come and go, but hardwood is the classic, last-for-generations material desired by the largest segment of US homebuyers. What many first-time installers don’t realize, though, is that there is a flow-chart of choices to make when selecting an ideal hardwood. Your decisions can shape not only the installation process, but how to care for your floor for years to come.
Not to worry, though: The Home Depot has products, resources, and installation help to assist along the way—and here’s a step-by-step guide of what to look for when making decisions.

Hardwood vs. Engineered Hardwood

American Originals Natural Red Oak 3/4in. T x 2-1/4 in. W x Varying L Solid Hardwood Flooring (20 sq.ft./case)
Bruce homedepot.com
$85.79

The initial decision is a major one: selecting either solid hardwood (a dense plank of timber) or engineered hardwood, which has a thin layer of visible hardwood veneer over several layers of (not visible) plywood.

Engineered wood can often be simply glued straight down to the substrate or installed using an easy “click-and-lock” technology, whereas solid hardwood requires a plywood underlayment, nailing, and plenty of elbow grease. Despite the breezy installation process, engineered hardwood often can’t be sanded and refinished in case repairs are needed down the road—a risk many aren’t willing to take.
“The warmth of solid hardwood floors is a nice reason to go for it,” interior designer Laura Umansky says, even though it is generally pricier. “They’re also a good option because they can be re-sanded and maintained pretty easily.” Plus, due to its long lifetime, hardwood flooring can often positively affect the value of a house if a homeowner is looking to sell.

Choose a strong finish
If you’ve decided to head in the solid hardwood direction, your next few choices will bemore aesthetic ones: type of hard wood, prefinished or unfinished boards, and the style of finish. (As you might’ve guessed, due to the nature of its construction, engineered hardwood is pretty much always prefinished.)
The fun choices that will dictate look—like selecting the type of wood, grain, and plank width for your room—are mostly a matter of personal taste. Oak, hickory, walnut, and ash, along with all the variants therein, are frequent choices for interior hardwood due to their attractiveness and durability (to learn more about the wood hardness and the Janka Scale, head to letter J!), while plank width can range from the more traditional 2-to-3” boards to ultra-wide 7”, which can show off the intricacies of the wood grain.

With prefinished boards, you’ll be able to choose the exact shade, grain, and finish of your hardwood floors from the get-go. This allows for a more concrete vision of what the flooring will look like when fully laid out (with no unwanted surprises). Unfinished boards—which are installed first and stained later—make for a more customized look, but are something of a gamble if the stain doesn’t turn out quite the way you envisioned it.
“I think hardwood is timeless,” says general contractor Jessica Pleasants. “And the finishing product you use—whether it’s a penetrating oil, polyurethane sealant on top, or a prefinished material—will greatly affect the overall final look of your floors.”
There’s a whole range of finishing products for hardwood floors, and to select which one is best for you, it’s important to (once again!) think about the space you’re tackling and its day-to-day uses.
Polyurethane finishes, whether water-based or oil-based, are durable and long-lasting, making them strong contenders for high-traffic areas.
Penetrating oils, on the other hand, has a more matte look, which works to accentuate the grain of the wood but are much less resilient. They are often paired with wood stains, and sometimes come as a combination oil and stain.

Pro Finisher 5 gal. Clear Gloss 350 VOC Oil-Based Interior Polyurethane for Floors
Rust-Oleum Parks homedepot.com
$134.00

1 gal. Clear Satin Water-Based Floor Polyurethane (2-Pack)
Varathane homedepot.com
$93.96

1 qt. Dark Walnut Classic Wood Interior Stain
Varathane homedepot.com
$6.98

1-gal. Woodacres Oak Semi-Transparent Oil-Based Wood Finish Penetrating Interior Stain
Olympic homedepot.com
$31.97

It can be enough to make your head swim—semi-gloss versus satin gloss; the level of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) you’re comfortable with; estimating resistance to scratches and scuffs (whew!)—but know this: like Goldilocks, there’s a finish out there that’s just right for your room.

Installation is no joke
Consider your hardwood flooring a living, breathing part of your home and you’ll be on your way to success.
Solid hardwood boards should be allowed to sit in the room where they will be installed for upwards of a week prior to nailing them down. This will allow the hardwood to expand (or contract) in response to the exact temperature levels and moisture point in the room. Otherwise, you might be left with gaps between boards or buckling if they haven’t properly acclimated. (Engineered wood, on the other hand, only requires about 24 hours to get adjusted to its new surroundings.)
The next step (and, no, you’re not nailing yet!), is to lay out or “rack” the boards in the order you’d like to see them on the floor, running parallel to the longest wall in the room. Think of this part like a giant jigsaw puzzle, mixing and matching boards from various bundles side-by-side to ensure there aren’t homogenous patches throughout the space.
Before installing, “rack” the floor boards, or lay them out, in the order you’d like to see them on the floor.
You’ll also want to leave at least a half-inch of space around the perimeter of the room—called an “expansion gap”—to account for board expansion. These gaps will eventually be covered by baseboards or moulding. (More on that under letter M for Molding!)

Yes, you have to make nail choices
Hardwood floors are held in place with nails—also known as “cleats”—or alternatively staples, and most often rely on a pneumatic floor nailer to help lock boards in place. Nails should be just long enough to sink into the subflooring, but no longer, making exact measurements (and following the manufacturer’s instructions) key for installing a solid, sturdy floor.

Visible nails in new hardwood floors are less prominent than they used to be. The rise of tongue-in-groove construction hides nails through a method called “blind-nailing,” where the groove of each subsequent plank hides them in the tongue of the plank before it, and so on. “Face-nailing”—hammering a nail into a pilot hole—is used closer to walls, where a nailer often doesn’t fit.
For those who are interested in nails that are more exposed and have a vintage, oo la la factor? There are a growing number of decorative flooring nail options, like square heads, antique versions, brass, and everything in between. Just make sure you don’t sacrifice form over function for these sharp little beauties.

The finishing touches matter

18-Volt ONE+ Cordless Orbital Jig Saw (Tool-Only)
RYOBI homedepot.com
$69.00

The grand finale of installing hardwood will often include trimming (likely using a jigsaw) the last row of boards to fit, and then face-nailing them. If your flooring is skirting any sort of obstacle—like a fireplace or kitchen island—the wood will also have to be custom cut in a similar fashion. And, if you are DIYing, always protect your physical health during the process by clearing out sawdust and wearing kneepads during an installation.
While the material is pricier, solid hardwood is a no-brainer for those looking to invest in their home for decades to come.
“For my money, a prefinished hardwood floor not only delivers the best value, but it’s probably the most accessible to install from a tools standpoint,” says general contractor Mark Clement, who points out that even the slightest slip-up on installation procedures with engineered “click-and-lock” hardwood can lead to a cancellation of the manufacturer’s warranty.
“With prefinished—or even unfinished—solid hardwood, there is a certain physicality to it that the [engineered] flooring doesn’t have. And once you get everything in place during installation, you’re off to the races.” More

For our September 2020 issue, Good Housekeeping teamed up with Chatbooks, an app-based photo-book company, to scour the U.S. and Canada for the smartest and most beautiful home office setups. What we found, done by both apartment dwellers and homeowners, just may inspire you to take your own work-from-home space to the next level.
Add a Cozy Sofa
Kari Bancroft, a stay-at-home mom in South Jordan, UT, decided to think beyond hard, uncomfortable chairs in her home office. Instead, she outfitted the space with a plush emerald green sofa that pairs well with her beloved animal prints and global-inspired pottery. The sofa works for her lifestyle too: She is mom to eight kids, ages 4 to 20, and uses her office space to read and to organize her many family photos. “My overall home office decorating approach is to showcase an eclectic mix of the things I love and make sure it functions as a versatile space,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: TIMBLIN ÉTAGÈRE BOOKCASE, $270, WAYFAIR.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Hang a Desk on the Wall
Rachel Mae Smith, whose blog is The Crafted Life, created her low-profile New York City office with a wall-mounted desk for two supported by a track shelving system. Pops of color, including brackets spray-painted in bright hues and dyed fabric swatches, pull the fun look together.

FOR SIMILAR: INDUSTRIAL RUSTIC WALL-MOUNTED TABLE, $100, AMAZON.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Consider High Shelves
Graphic designer and new mom Ashley Smith transformed a cedar-lined closet with white paint and high shelving for books and decorative storage. Ashley elevated the look with DIY display boards made from wood scraps. “I added some stain, wire and clips, and they became the perfect spot to hang anything important, like bills, invites and children’s artwork,” she says. Plus, she made a simple built-in desk for her large desktop. “We used inexpensive 1″ x 2″ common boards as supports underneath, then added a nice maple 3/4″ plywood top and 1″ x 3″ trim board to the front,” she says of the desk design in her Pittsburg, KS, home.

FOR SIMILAR: ART LEON 360-DEGREE SWIVEL HOME OFFICE CHAIR WITH CASTERS, $141, OVERSTOCK.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Take Advantage of a Chic Nook
Kaitlyn Fast of Birmingham, AL, let a large mirror set the foundation for her minimalist office nook. “It reflects all the natural light we have in this room and makes it easy to switch out the decor and flowers as each new season arrives,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: RICHARDS ACCENT MIRROR, $198, BIRCHLANE.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Put Your Office by the Stairs
With the help of her husband, Russel, Lindi Vanderschaaf turned an empty wall next to the stairs on the first floor of their Grande Prairie, Canada, home into a functional workspace. Russel made the desktop and shelves from stained plywood, which balances the design’s black-and-white color scheme. “The white of the desk drawers and walls really helps define the space,” Lindi says. “It almost feels like its own room now.”

FOR SIMILAR: GELLER DINING CHAIR, $120, TARGET.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Paint a Brick Wall
Megan Leonard of the lifestyle brand Our City Nest lives in Baltimore, a city known for row homes with exposed brick walls. So it only made sense to showcase this detail in her office space. “It provides an instant texture throughout my home that I love to pair with wood accents,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: CHANTRELL DESK, $330, WAYFAIR.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Make a Desk Out of Two Basic Dressers
After Sara Johnston’s 5-year-old son began feeling left out with her and her husband working from their Ontario, Canada, home, they decided to make an office for him right in the living room. “We painted two old IKEA dressers with leftover white paint and asked a local lumber provider for the top, which just happened to be shelving cut down to this specific size,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: HEMNES 3-DRAWER CHEST, $179, IKEA.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Turn Your Closet into an Office
Party stylist Kelsey Klos, who lives in Petaluma, CA, with her husband and three daughters under 5, transformed a closet into a simple but vibrant workstation. She used clear refrigerator organization bins to store supplies, cake stands to stack work projects, and playful accessories, like a rainbow garland, to show off her style.

FOR SIMILAR: SIMPLIFY HERRINGBONE LARGE STORAGE TOTE, $16, STAPLES.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Set Up a Workspace in Your Kitchen
Heather Keeling and her family of five decided to turn a corner of the kitchen in their Portland, OR, home into a bright and comfy work area. They opted for contemporary touches to achieve contrast. “The baby-blue penny tile is the perfect bridge between the 1960s and the modern day,” Heather says. Custom shelving, inspired by a mid-century modern credenza, completes the look.

FOR SIMILAR: PYRAMID BLACK DINING SIDE CHAIR BY MODWAY, $81, HOMEDEPOT.COM. NIRVANA BLISS RIMMED 1″ CIRCLES CERAMIC TILE, $9 PER SQ. FT., TILEBAR.COM.
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Capture Your Home Office and More!

Courtesy of Chatbooks

To find the standout home offices showcased in this feature, Good Housekeeping joined forces with Chatbooks, a company that makes affordable, high-quality photo books. These albums are great for displaying your favorite family photos or even before-and-after shots of a recent home project — think of them as personalized coffee table books. Just download the Chatbooks app and create an Ongoing Photo Book Series, and then for every 60 photos uploaded from your Instagram or camera roll it automatically creates a new book (starting at $10). More

Does your space feel a little… drab? Switching up your wall color in a trendy shade is the one of the quickest ways to rehab a tired space. And since it’s a project most homeowners can tackle themselves, it’s one of the most affordable, too.
But as easy as painting sounds, there are some tricks to the trade. Take prep work, for example. If you skip this important step, you could end up with a real problem on your hands — an undercoat that shows through or peeling paint. If you’re painting latex over oil, for example, you’ll likely get cracking, says Rachel Rothman, chief technologist and director of engineering at the Good Housekeeping Institute. These types of mistakes not only take time to remedy, but can also cost a significant amount of money if you have to hire a professional to fix your errors.
Don’t fret, though: As long as you’re using the right supplies and have a handle on the basics, you’ll be painting like a pro in no time at all. Here, we’ll break it all down for you, covering everything from supplies, to necessary prep, to rolling evenly, and even cleaning your brushes so you can move on to the next project on your list. Follow these tips for professional-looking results:
1. Make a plan.
Before you ever pick up a paint brush, you need a plan of attack. Think of it sort of like cooking: You want to read the recipe all the way through before you start blindly throwing ingredients into the pot, otherwise, you might get halfway through and realize you’re missing an important component.
Look up: Does the ceiling need a refresh, too? What about the trim? Consider your options on the walls as well. Will you be using one color — or do you want to try painting with two colors (an accent wall, perhaps)?
2. Select the perfect color.
When it comes to paint shades, the options are boundless. It’s a fortunate problem: While you’ll inevitably find just what your’e looking for, landing on the right hue can be quite the process. To guide your search, start by thinking about what you ultimately want. Do you envision a warm or a cool shade? Does your space warrant a bold color, or would a neutral be more appropriate? Once you have a general idea of the direction you want to go in, you can begin sifting through paint chips.
But don’t rely on the little square to make a final decision: Once on the wall, paint can look very different than it does on the sample card! Colors often look brighter once on the wall, and the light in your room can have a dramatic impact on the way the color reads. Pick a few finalists, then purchase sample cans.
3. Paint a sample swatch.
Once you have sample cans in hand, paint swatches on the wall. To give you a good idea of how the color will look in your space, paint two coats of color in a 12-inch-by-12-inch square. If your room has both sunny and shady spots, it’s smart to put swatches in both areas, as this can affect the final look.
Alternatively, you can paint two coats onto a foam board (available at any craft or office supply store) and tape it to the wall. This is a great option for those who don’t intend to get started right away, as you won’t have to live with random color streaks on your walls.
Pro tip: Use an inexpensive foam brush for this type of sample painting. This way, you won’t dirty a ton of brushes or waste money.
4. Calculate how much paint you need.
When determining how much paint to buy, many retailers have helpful calculators you can use. Always double check packaging, but in general, a gallon is roughly good for 250 to 400 square feet, says Rothman. And don’t forget: You’ll need a little extra for touch-ups and mistakes.
5. Gather the right materials.
Though the surface and size of what your painting will directly influence the exact list of supplies you need, it’s a good idea to stock your toolkit with some combination of the following items:
Painter’s tape
Drop cloths
Paint brushes (both angled and straight)
Paint roller
Paint tray
Stir stick
Paint
Other worthy investments: An extension pole, so you can stash away the ladder after the edging step; a paint-can opener; and a pour spout to lessen mess.
6. Prep the room for painting.
First, dry-dust the walls floor to ceiling and scrub any extra-grimy parts with a wet sponge or cloth; paint won’t adhere as well to a dirty surface (think fingerprints, soot, dust, cobwebs). Let dry before you paint.
Protect the floor and any furniture you can’t (or don’t want to) move, from paint splatters and spills. For the floor, choose fabric drop cloths instead of plastic ones, as plastic can be slick under your feet or, worse, the ladder.
Remove outlet and light switch plates and tape around any areas you don’t want painted (such as moldings, baseboards, or window frames) with painter’s masking tape or Frog Tape. The Good Housekeeping Institute tried the latter on a smooth wall and found that it makes a crisp line and doesn’t let paint bleed through.
7. Prime the wall (or don’t with our handy trick).
A bit of a hinderance when you’re trying to paint a room in one day: Painting over a dark wall with a light color (or covering stains) requires a coat of primer and two coats of paint — and at least six hours of drying time. (If you’re in a super humid room or painting the exterior on a humid day it will take a much longer, notes Rothman.)
That’s why GHI recommends Benjamin Moore Aura, a self-priming paint (it’s a cost-effective option if you were planning on buying primer). Going from light to light? You can get away with two coats of good-quality regular paint.
8. Mix the paint.
Though the store generally shakes the paint for you, a decent stir will ensure your paint is properly mixed. This is particularly important if the can has been sitting on a shelf for any length of time. Though an optional step, you can also strain the paint, says Rothman. “It’s easier to get rid of impurities from the paint can, rather than having them on your wall and having to fix it later.”
9. Get rolling!
Now you’re ready for the main event. If you’re painting a room with two colors — stripes, for example — start with the lighter color first, says Rothman. Once it’s dry, run painter’s tape over the divider, then paint the darker color.
If you’re painting a room one color, here’s how with a roller and a brush, according to the pros:
Use an angled brush or a sponge tool to “cut in,” or paint a two-inch swath around the edges of woodwork and the ceiling. (Don’t forget: These areas should be taped off, as explained in step five.)
Grab your paint tray and a roller. Use 1/4-inch nap for smooth surfaces, 3/8-inch nap for semi-smooth, or 5/8-inch nap for rough — the wrong tool will apply too much or too little paint. If using a latex paint, pre-wet the roller first, says Rothman.
Fill the well of the paint tray about ¼ of the way. Then, when loading the paint, roll the roller back and forth in the well until it is uniformly covered. Finally, move the roller back and forth in the upper portion to remove any excess.
Fill in the central unpainted space using the roller. Paint the wall in overlapping W- or M-shaped strokes for the most even paint distribution.
Let the first coat dry at least a couple of hours, then coat again. Between coats, cover the tray and brush with plastic wrap touching the paint surface, and refrigerate.
Pro tip: Have a moist rag handy to wipe fresh splatters. Scrape off dried drips with a credit card or plastic spatula.
10. Finish and clean up.
Rinse your paintbrush and roller (if you don’t toss it) under a faucet until the water runs clear.
Decant the tray’s leftover paint back into the can; seal the can tightly by placing a paper towel over the lid and tapping the lid edges with a hammer. Rinse the tray.
Once the brush’s bristles are totally dry, slip the brush back into its original paper wrapper to keep the bristles from fanning out, or try this DIY fix: Fold a thick piece of paper around the bristles; tape to secure.
Remove masking tape before you call it a night, pulling it off at a 45-degree angle to avoid tearing the finish.

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Declutter the Clea and Joanna way with acrylic bins, pre-made labels, and other The Container Store exclusives. More

Woman’s Day Content Director Meaghan Murphy is an expert when it comes to getting her kids to pitch in around the house. Case in point: the Team Murphy Chore Chart, where her three kids Charley, James, and Brooks keep tabs on the cleaning up tasks they need to complete. The system keeps things fun and simple, while teaching the kids the importance of cleaning up as you go and forming healthy habits. That also happens to be the philosophy behind Scotch-Brite™ Brand’s innovative cleaning products and tools.
Dishwashing plays a major role when it comes to the Murphy kids pitching in—especially when it comes to cleaning up after the family’s famous taco night, which usually involves some super cheesy nachos. Watch the video above to see how the Scotch-Brite® Advanced Scrub Dots Non-Scratch Scrubbers make clean-up so easy, kids can do it.

Scotch-Brite® Advanced Scrub Dots Non-Scratch Scrubbers

This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io More

There are more than 1,300 products to choose from. More

When you invest in a new set of sheets or towels, it’s normal to wonder how long they’ll stay in their best condition. After all, you purchase these items to use them regularly, and there are few household items that go through as many wash cycles as bedding, bath and tabletop fabrics, whether that’s pillowcases, washcloths or table linens.If you fine-tune a few key regular practices, though, you will ensure their lifespan for years to come. Some brands make this easier — Linger Home’s linens, towels and more are made from high-quality and sustainably-sourced materials like French flax linen, organic cotton, and USA-grown Supima cotton, which can put you ahead of the starting line when it comes to care. (Bonus: Their products are also Oeko-Tex certified, which means they’ve been tested ensure there isn’t an unsafe level of chemicals present.)
By following guidelines that our Good Housekeeping experts rely on, you’ll guarantee your textiles stick around in tip-top shape, making day-to-day routines just a little bit softer.
In the Bedroom
Bedsheets and Pillowcases
Typical lifespan: two to three yearsHow to help them last longer: Having the most welcoming sheets possible is key for both evening wind down time and a good night’s sleep.
“From a construction standpoint, think about replacing your sheets if they start to look thin,” says Lexie Sachs, Good Housekeeping Institute’s Textile Director. Sheets tear over time, especially with the friction of tossing and turning. She also notes that torn hems and discoloration are clear signs that new sheets should be on your horizon. “If they start to feel scratchy, it might be time to replace them.”

100% Supima Cotton, 500 Thread Count Sateen Solid Sheet Set
lingerhome.com
$149.00

100% Fine European Linen Sheet Set
lingerhome.com
$249.00

100% Supima Cotton, 400 Thread Count Percale Solid Sheet Set
lingerhome.com
$129.00

100% Supima Cotton, 400 Thread Count Percale Ogee Embroidered Hem Sheet Set
lingerhome.com
$139.00

Having two (or, ideally, three) different sets to cycle through will also help extend the life of your sheets, along with washing them once a week. “Some people don’t change their sheets for a long time and that’s really not good,” says Carolyn Forte, Cleaning Lab Director at the Good Housekeeping Institute. She points out that pillowcases are particularly prone to makeup stains and sweat. “Sheets and pillowcases hold on to all of those skin cells, so washing them every one to two weeks is important.”
Comforters and Duvets
Typical lifespan: 5 to 15 years

European Goose Down Duvet Insert
lingerhome.com
$349.00

How to help them last longer: Both comforters and duvets can have a lengthy lifespan if you rotate them out in the summer months for a lighter blanket or quilt, but their longevity also depends on the type of filling material used.
Down alternative duvet inserts are less expensive and great for people with allergies to down or feathers, but they need to be replaced once they begin to lose their shape. Goose down tends to hold onto its fluffy construction well, but is generally warmer than down alternative, making a summertime bedding swap pretty much a given. With both types, look for a duvet insert that uses a “baffle box” construction.
“Baffle box construction is where there are individual pieces of fabric within the boxes of the duvet so that it prevents the fill from shifting around,” says Sachs. “Otherwise, the filling can clump up easily.”
Preventing clumping is also critical when washing and drying duvets and comforters. “Make sure you use a large capacity washing machine and the “bedding” cycle, if your machine has one, because if [the duvet] is crammed in, there’s going to be friction, which means there’s going to be abrasion,” Forte notes. And when it comes to drying these snuggly staples, it’s important to fluff them up as thoroughly as possible—particularly those of the down variety. “You want to make sure your down is as dry and as fluffy as possible because it’s going to insulate you better,” she says.
Duvet and pillow protectors can also help lengthen the life of your bedding by adding an extra line of defense between the plush inner-material and the outside elements.
In the Kitchen
Dish Towels
Typical lifespan: one yearHow to help them last longer: “Dish towels aren’t going to be the same type of construction as bath towels,” says Sachs. “They’re a little bit less absorbent.” And while this means they’ll dry faster than bath towels, the downside is that they should be swapped out more frequently.
Forte recommends keeping one dish towel specifically for drying dishes, and another that’s only for drying your hands, rotating the hand towel as frequently as a hand towel in the bathroom. Dish cloths, on the other hand—which come into contact with food particles when they scrub dirty dishes—should be washed as often as possible to prevent odor penetration (ideally everyday or every other day).
In the Bathroom
Bath Towels and Hand Towels

Linger Home

Typical lifespan: two to four yearsHow to help them last longer: Loose fibers, fraying around the towel’s edges and loss of absorbency are all signs that it’s time to swap your towels out for a new set.
“Most bath towels have cotton loops that make them really full and absorbent,” says Sachs. “If the loops start to come undone so that you see stringy pieces of the towel, or the hems around it are unraveling, those are signs of wear.”
And while towels are extremely adept at drying off human bodies, they’re not so quick to dry on their own. If left in a pile on the floor or not hung-up to air out after a shower or bath, they stand the chance of developing mold, mildew and other bacteria that contributes to a shorter towel lifespan, and some musty odors. Forte recommends using a towel bar for hanging used towels instead of a hook (it helps them to air out quicker), and emphasizes that the faster you can get a towel up and drying, the fresher it’ll stay.

100% Organic Cotton Turkish Bath Sheet
lingerhome.com
$45.00

100% Organic Cotton Turkish Dobby Design Bath Towel Set
lingerhome.com
$105.00

100% Organic Cotton Turkish Dobby Design Hand Towels (Pair)
lingerhome.com
$25.00

100% Organic Cotton Turkish Bath Mat
lingerhome.com
$25.00

Using the right laundering techniques can also do wonders for the longevity of bathroom textiles. Bath towels should be washed after at least every three or four uses, while hand towels and washcloths should be washed and rotated more frequently. Wash towels in warm to hot water, using fabric softener on occasion. (Avoid using it in every load because it has a tendency to coat fibers and trap hard water minerals, making the towels feel stiff.)
If your towels seem more scratchy than plush, a vinegar wash can help get them back to their normal, cozy feel. Add a half-cup of vinegar in the wash cycle and a half-cup of vinegar in the rise cycle —with no detergent—the next time you pop in a load, and that should do the trick.
In the Dining Room
Napkins and Tablecloths
Typical lifespan: 10 years or more (heirloom potential!)

100% European Flax Linen Napkins With Merrow Edge Stitching (Set of 4)
lingerhome.com
$40.00

How to help them last longer: Napkins, tablecloths and runners can last a lifetime, with well-preserved versions frequently passed down from generation to generation. But stains are always a threat to the longevity of tabletop textiles.
“Make sure when a spill happens on your napkins or tablecloth that you blot it right away—get to it as quickly as you can,” says Forte. “Then don’t let it sit in the hamper or the laundry basket for a week — just wash it promptly.”
When a stain-making incident strikes with guests over, and you can’t exactly grab their napkin and run mid-dinner, have your washing machine pull double-duty as a soaking station after everyone leaves. “Use your washing machine to soak the napkins or tablecloth so it’ll keep the stains from setting. Then it’ll be easier to remove when you do have time to wash it,” says Forte.
Stains aside, how often to wash your napkins depends on how frequently and in what way they’re being used. Cloth napkins that mostly serve a decorative purpose might not need to be washed after each meal, but it goes without saying that any napkin that has touched someone’s mouth, nose or facial area should get an immediate wash.
Applying a stain repellant to tablecloths can also help it resist any potential red wine disasters before they occur, keeping your dining room showpiece pristine for years to come.
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