Aurelia Butler

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

If you’re accustomed to figuring out or completing home improvement projects on your own, knowing when to ask for help can, er, be a challenge. But one small slip-up, or one warning sign ignored could potentially snowball into a much bigger issue down the road, which might not only derail your project, but put your whole house in danger — particularly when you’re talking about flooring.
The Home Depot has a team of licensed flooring installers who can help with anything from carpet to hardwood. But it’s helpful to know what situations might constitute a red flag — here are 5 problems to be aware of that could necessitate help from experts (be they an exterminator or contractor).

Problem: You’re removing potentially hazardous old flooring
Many types of flooring and flooring adhesives common in the mid-20th century didn’t adhere to the environmental and health-conscious practices of today. This is particularly true when it comes to asbestos black mastic: a type of adhesive used well into the late 1970s that contains a fibrous material (asbestos) which can cause mesothelioma, a type of cancer.
If you remove old vinyl, tile or linoleum and see a black, thick adhesive, do not try and scrape it up, scrub it or grind it off. Instead, ask an expert to come in and assess the situation. If it is asbestos black mastic, a professional will likely advise you to leave it in place — not remove it!— and cover it with sealant and new flooring.

Problem: Your house has serious structural issues

Ah, older homes: they’re full of charming details and enough character that we can overlook their minor imperfections — until those flaws turn into major problems. If you’re preparing for a flooring job and notice any of the following, it’s best to call in an expert:

A sloping or sagging floor, which can indicate weakened or broken floor joists
Doors and windows that stick when you try to close them, which can indicate issues with the home’s foundation
Paint that’s blistering on the walls, which can point to excess moisture in places it shouldn’t be, like the walls and floors
Major cracks in existing tile, which could signal foundational issues
A chimney that’s leaning significantly or has cracks in the external mortar
Fixer-uppers can be a once-in-a-lifetime chance to make an existing, perhaps historic structure wholly your own, but if the bones of the house aren’t right, you’re likely in for future headaches.

Problem: You notice some creepy crawlers

No one likes to think about little critters scuttling into their homes, but when it comes to flooring projects, some types of bugs are more important to check for than others. Namely: termites. If you see any collections of small, translucent wings around the perimeter of your home, tiny holes in your structural wood or “mud tunnels” through damaged wood, termites have probably taken up residence, and need to be dealt with promptly.

Problem: You don’t understand the instructions
Most flooring materials — laminate, vinyl, grout, you name it — come with extremely specific instructions for how to complete a proper installation, and must be followed to the letter or you risk losing your warranty (yikes!). If you feel completely lost after digging into the instruction manual, don’t take a “try it and see!” approach. Ask an expert for a consultation before you make a mistake that can’t be taken back easily.

Problem: You have water issues

Water damage is a nightmare for homeowners, particularly when it comes to flooring. If there’s any history of water damage inside a home (basement flooding, slow-leaking refrigerator line, etc.) or you notice any signs of water damage — water rings on the ceiling or walls, a mildew-like smell inside the room where you’re planning to work — it’s best to ask an expert to assess the situation before you lay the first tile.

Problem: Your safety is in jeopardy
If there’s ever a point where you feel in over your head — a tool that’s a little too unfamiliar, a material that’s become unmanageable, or you run into a potentially dangerous unforeseen problem (like sketchy electrical wiring or crude, previously-done renovations), call in an expert to help. There’s no need to try and be a hero. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

When jetting off for a saltwater-soaked beach getaway or a woodsy romantic weekend isn’t feasible, an at-home outdoor space can step in (and step up!) and become the low-key backyard oasis you need, minus the plane ticket. And while recreating the feeling of sand between your toes probably isn’t realistic, choosing the right flooring for your outdoor area is the first step towards making every day feel (kind of) like a vacation on your home turf.
Below are several outdoor flooring materials available at The Home Depot to consider when turning your outdoor space into a just-out-the-door getaway.

Area Rugs
A simple-to-execute option is to incorporate an outdoor-friendly area rug, and The Home Depot has a number from which to choose. Natural fibers, like jute, are durable and have an earthy, neutral look, while patterned outdoor rugs can bring a burst of color to a home’s exterior.
Look for rugs that are designated “moisture-proof” or “water-resistant” and, if possible, keep them under awnings, umbrellas, or other covered areas to ensure the least amount of fading from the sun’s rays.

Tile

Vulkon Nero 24 in. x 24 in. Porcelain Paver Tile (14 pieces / 56 sq. ft. / pallet)
MSI homedepot.com
$340.34

Tile is another go-to option to consider when designing your backyard paradise — but it only works well under the right conditions.

Tile floors are commonplace in Florida sunrooms and indoor-outdoor lounging areas across the Southwest, but they are susceptible to cracking in the seasonal cycles of colder climates. Tile is great, says Clements, in “places where you don’t have a freeze and thaw situation, and where you use an appropriate outdoor tile — one that’s not slippery when it gets wet.” He adds that you also need to use the proper adhesives for exterior applications of tile, which differ from the indoor versions.If you live in a more temperate climate, brick is a hardier option that can provide a similar feel to tile while standing up to the weather. It’s naturally slip-resistant, unquestionably durable, and in it for the long haul.
Artificial Grass

Deluxe Artificial Grass Synthetic Lawn Turf,15 ft. W
RealGrass homedepot.com
$46.50

Climate aside, if you’re itching to turn a patch of steamy backyard concrete into something a little bit greener, artificial grass (also called “artificial turf”) might be your flooring of choice. Available in large rolls or plug-and-play tiles, artificial turf is an appealing option if you’re yearning for a hint of greenery, but don’t want the trouble of jackhammering asphalt, sodding, watering, and then (of course) mowing.

But don’t envision this as the astroturf of baseball fields. The artificial turf of today is truly grass-like — nothing plasticky or stiff about it! — and is perfect for kids and pets who romp around. (Many versions even come with built-in cooling technology). The interlocking tiles are particularly convenient because there is no stapling or adhesive required, and they can fit into almost any space, from a high-rise balcony to a full-scale outdoor kitchen. They’re also self-draining, and as for the maintenance? Let’s just say you’ll never have to rev up the weed-whacker.

Composite Wood

15/16 in. x 5-1/4 in. x 12 ft. Brown Square Edge Capped Composite Decking Board
Veranda homedepot.com
$19.77

If you’re interested in the look of hardwood without the potential hassle and expense of upkeep, composite wood decking — made from a blend of sawdust and plastic — is a budget-friendly option that’s appealing to buyers for its stain-repelling status and resistance to UV light (aka no fading). It retains more heat than traditional hardwood, though, so is best for areas that have at least a partially-shaded section.

Hardwood

As a general rule, the hardwoods that work for indoor flooring aren’t the best for an outdoor porch or patio area. Even pressure-treated pine, which you’ve probably stood on while barbecuing at a friend’s house, often turns a yellow-green color after exposure to the elements over the years.
Red cedar is a warm, brick-hued hardwood that’s highly resistant to all outside forces that might cause harm, including sun, cold, rain and bugs! It even develops a sophisticated, silvery tinge over the years. (We like to think of it as the “silver fox” of outdoor flooring.)
Redwood also holds up well against the elements and is highly rot-resistant, particularly when treated with a clear sealant.
Southern yellow pine is another contender when pressure-treated. (Pressure-treated wood has been penetrated with preservative chemicals that help it stand up to the elements.)
In all cases, take into consideration whether the outdoor area will be fully or partially covered (if only partially, expect some fading overtime) as well as the wood’s hardness and durability (for more on this, see letter J for Janka Scale).
Moreover, selecting the appropriate flooring for an outdoor space—unlike indoor flooring, which is much less impacted by what’s going on outside your house—depends largely upon geography. For example, general contractor Mark Clement notes that, living in New England, he often sees century-old porches that were built with Douglas fir. But, he says, “in warmer climates, you have to worry more about insects, so you’re going to need pressure-treated lumber.” More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Often cast aside as a style that doesn’t offer form and function, laminate is actually a jack-of-all-trades material that deserves serious consideration for your home.
Budget-friendly, hardwearing, and easy to install, laminate is the accessible flooring built to withstand pretty much anything and look good doing it, with plenty of options available at The Home Depot.
First, a few clarifications

Laminate is not the same as engineered hardwood, which has a plywood core and a thin veneer of actual hardwood on its surface (for more on hardwood — engineered and not — visit letter H). Instead, laminate is a type of flooring made up of several layers, detailed below from the bottom up:
A moisture-repelling base layer, often made from melamine or plastic, that gives the boards stability
A resin-soaked fiberboard “core” layer, which helps give laminate its signature dent-resistant properties
A “print” or “design” layer, where a pattern of the material the laminate will resemble — like a hardwood such as oak or natural stone — is placed
A protective “wear” layer of clear, hard plastic or resin that secures the print layer and coats the top
Thanks to its construction method, laminate’s design options are pretty much endless, from the “pattern” itself to the type of finish that makes it extra durable. Since the planks are pre-finished ahead of installation, there will be no unwelcome surprises about mismatched colors or differences in wood grain when it arrives.

It can stand up to (almost!) anything
Due to its layered method of production, laminate is one of the best materials on the market for high-traffic areas. High-quality laminate can be counted on to stand up to toy spills in living rooms and soccer cleat stampedes in entryways for at least a decade (and often two). However, it’s still important to take into consideration just how much repetitive motion the flooring will see, particularly when it comes to selecting the finish of the top “wear” layer.

Lansbury Oak 7 mm Thick x 8.03 in. Wide x 47.64 in. Length Laminate Flooring (23.91 sq. ft. / case)
TrafficMASTER homedepot.com
$11.71

Hayes River Oak 12mm Thick x 7-9/16 in. Wide x 50-5/8 in. Length Water Resistant Laminate Flooring (15.95 sq. ft./case)
Home Decorators Collection homedepot.com
$30.14

Outlast+ Paradise Jatoba 10 mm Thick x 5-1/4 in. Wide x 47-1/4 in. Length Laminate Flooring (13.74 sq. ft. / case)
Pergo homedepot.com
$38.33

The rule of thumb is to save “high gloss” laminate for less-busy spaces, and choose a more forgiving finish — like something low gloss, embossed, or one that’s been “hand-scraped” to look like wood — for places where a dog-and-cat wrestling match might break out.

Due to its method of production, laminate is one of the best materials on the market for high-traffic areas.

For additional help in selecting an appropriate product, consult the laminate abrasion class (AC) rating system, which was created in 1994 to help customers understand a certain product’s durability. Numerical rankings range from AC1 (laminate that is suitable for moderate wear, like a guest bedroom) to AC6 (laminate that is suitable for a public space, like a grocery store). Almost all laminates for home use will fall somewhere in between AC1 and AC3, a category of laminate designed for busy residential interiors. Any number above an AC3 is generally uncomfortably hard for normal at-home activities, like walking in socks, and definitely not what you want to feel underfoot when sneaking downstairs for a midnight bowl of ice cream.

Installation is a snap (and lock)
Like most engineered hardwood, the majority of laminate planks are installed using “click-and-lock” technology, interlocking securely atop a previously existing floor or subfloor without using any sort of adhesive, nails, or other agents. (It’s sometimes called a “floating floor” for this reason.) This approachable installation method — in addition to laminate’s reasonable price point — makes it a popular option for people who are on a budget or might want to DIY a flooring upgrade.

Pro Flooring Installation Kit for Vinyl, Laminate and Hardwood Flooring
Roberts homedepot.com
$32.55

“For this kind of floating floor, you need very few tools,” says general contractorJoe Truini. He notes that the tools you do need — like a tapping block to ensure boards are securely set in place — can easily be purchased in a kit. “You might not even need a saw, and could possibly just rent a laminate flooring cutter that looks like a giant paper-cutter guillotine.”Boards typically come in either 8 millimeter or 12 millimeter thickness, and unless the laminate is made with pre-attached underlayment, a high-quality underlayment is necessary for creating a walking surface that doesn’t feel uncomfortably hard and uncushioned. (Visit letter U to learn more about underlayment.) Generally speaking, thicker laminate is more forgiving in installation, which helps hide any dings or nicks in the subflooring, and feels more like hardwood. It’s also a strong contender for a place where actual hardwood can’t go: basements.

But, notably, it’s best to keep this flooring out of bathrooms and laundry rooms, since the majority of laminate doesn’t stand up well to pooling water.

Play by the rules

CKS01 Hardwood & Laminate Cleaning System Kit (with Terry Cloth Mop Cover) by
Bruce homedepot.com
$23.98

This might seem like a no-brainer but, particularly for laminate, do not skip over the manufacturers’ instructions — or risk potentially losing your warranty. This attentiveness doesn’t end after your floors have been beautifully installed by the book. On the contrary, it’s every bit as important, if not more so, for how you tackle cleaning and upkeep over the lifespan of the flooring.

“Laminate floors are more resistant, but that doesn’t mean that they’re bullet proof,” says Carolyn Forte, Good Housekeeping’s Home Appliances & Cleaning Products Director. She notes that most laminate manufacturers recommend specific cleaning products for their floors. “The point is that you don’t want to damage the finish, and you also don’t want to leave a residue, because residue will dull the floor.” More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Flooring trends may come and go, but hardwood is the classic, last-for-generations material desired by the largest segment of US homebuyers. What many first-time installers don’t realize, though, is that there is a flow-chart of choices to make when selecting an ideal hardwood. Your decisions can shape not only the installation process, but how to care for your floor for years to come.
Not to worry, though: The Home Depot has products, resources, and installation help to assist along the way—and here’s a step-by-step guide of what to look for when making decisions.

Hardwood vs. Engineered Hardwood

American Originals Natural Red Oak 3/4in. T x 2-1/4 in. W x Varying L Solid Hardwood Flooring (20 sq.ft./case)
Bruce homedepot.com
$85.79

The initial decision is a major one: selecting either solid hardwood (a dense plank of timber) or engineered hardwood, which has a thin layer of visible hardwood veneer over several layers of (not visible) plywood.

Engineered wood can often be simply glued straight down to the substrate or installed using an easy “click-and-lock” technology, whereas solid hardwood requires a plywood underlayment, nailing, and plenty of elbow grease. Despite the breezy installation process, engineered hardwood often can’t be sanded and refinished in case repairs are needed down the road—a risk many aren’t willing to take.
“The warmth of solid hardwood floors is a nice reason to go for it,” interior designer Laura Umansky says, even though it is generally pricier. “They’re also a good option because they can be re-sanded and maintained pretty easily.” Plus, due to its long lifetime, hardwood flooring can often positively affect the value of a house if a homeowner is looking to sell.

Choose a strong finish
If you’ve decided to head in the solid hardwood direction, your next few choices will bemore aesthetic ones: type of hard wood, prefinished or unfinished boards, and the style of finish. (As you might’ve guessed, due to the nature of its construction, engineered hardwood is pretty much always prefinished.)
The fun choices that will dictate look—like selecting the type of wood, grain, and plank width for your room—are mostly a matter of personal taste. Oak, hickory, walnut, and ash, along with all the variants therein, are frequent choices for interior hardwood due to their attractiveness and durability (to learn more about the wood hardness and the Janka Scale, head to letter J!), while plank width can range from the more traditional 2-to-3” boards to ultra-wide 7”, which can show off the intricacies of the wood grain.

With prefinished boards, you’ll be able to choose the exact shade, grain, and finish of your hardwood floors from the get-go. This allows for a more concrete vision of what the flooring will look like when fully laid out (with no unwanted surprises). Unfinished boards—which are installed first and stained later—make for a more customized look, but are something of a gamble if the stain doesn’t turn out quite the way you envisioned it.
“I think hardwood is timeless,” says general contractor Jessica Pleasants. “And the finishing product you use—whether it’s a penetrating oil, polyurethane sealant on top, or a prefinished material—will greatly affect the overall final look of your floors.”
There’s a whole range of finishing products for hardwood floors, and to select which one is best for you, it’s important to (once again!) think about the space you’re tackling and its day-to-day uses.
Polyurethane finishes, whether water-based or oil-based, are durable and long-lasting, making them strong contenders for high-traffic areas.
Penetrating oils, on the other hand, has a more matte look, which works to accentuate the grain of the wood but are much less resilient. They are often paired with wood stains, and sometimes come as a combination oil and stain.

Pro Finisher 5 gal. Clear Gloss 350 VOC Oil-Based Interior Polyurethane for Floors
Rust-Oleum Parks homedepot.com
$134.00

1 gal. Clear Satin Water-Based Floor Polyurethane (2-Pack)
Varathane homedepot.com
$93.96

1 qt. Dark Walnut Classic Wood Interior Stain
Varathane homedepot.com
$6.98

1-gal. Woodacres Oak Semi-Transparent Oil-Based Wood Finish Penetrating Interior Stain
Olympic homedepot.com
$31.97

It can be enough to make your head swim—semi-gloss versus satin gloss; the level of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) you’re comfortable with; estimating resistance to scratches and scuffs (whew!)—but know this: like Goldilocks, there’s a finish out there that’s just right for your room.

Installation is no joke
Consider your hardwood flooring a living, breathing part of your home and you’ll be on your way to success.
Solid hardwood boards should be allowed to sit in the room where they will be installed for upwards of a week prior to nailing them down. This will allow the hardwood to expand (or contract) in response to the exact temperature levels and moisture point in the room. Otherwise, you might be left with gaps between boards or buckling if they haven’t properly acclimated. (Engineered wood, on the other hand, only requires about 24 hours to get adjusted to its new surroundings.)
The next step (and, no, you’re not nailing yet!), is to lay out or “rack” the boards in the order you’d like to see them on the floor, running parallel to the longest wall in the room. Think of this part like a giant jigsaw puzzle, mixing and matching boards from various bundles side-by-side to ensure there aren’t homogenous patches throughout the space.
Before installing, “rack” the floor boards, or lay them out, in the order you’d like to see them on the floor.
You’ll also want to leave at least a half-inch of space around the perimeter of the room—called an “expansion gap”—to account for board expansion. These gaps will eventually be covered by baseboards or moulding. (More on that under letter M for Molding!)

Yes, you have to make nail choices
Hardwood floors are held in place with nails—also known as “cleats”—or alternatively staples, and most often rely on a pneumatic floor nailer to help lock boards in place. Nails should be just long enough to sink into the subflooring, but no longer, making exact measurements (and following the manufacturer’s instructions) key for installing a solid, sturdy floor.

Visible nails in new hardwood floors are less prominent than they used to be. The rise of tongue-in-groove construction hides nails through a method called “blind-nailing,” where the groove of each subsequent plank hides them in the tongue of the plank before it, and so on. “Face-nailing”—hammering a nail into a pilot hole—is used closer to walls, where a nailer often doesn’t fit.
For those who are interested in nails that are more exposed and have a vintage, oo la la factor? There are a growing number of decorative flooring nail options, like square heads, antique versions, brass, and everything in between. Just make sure you don’t sacrifice form over function for these sharp little beauties.

The finishing touches matter

18-Volt ONE+ Cordless Orbital Jig Saw (Tool-Only)
RYOBI homedepot.com
$69.00

The grand finale of installing hardwood will often include trimming (likely using a jigsaw) the last row of boards to fit, and then face-nailing them. If your flooring is skirting any sort of obstacle—like a fireplace or kitchen island—the wood will also have to be custom cut in a similar fashion. And, if you are DIYing, always protect your physical health during the process by clearing out sawdust and wearing kneepads during an installation.
While the material is pricier, solid hardwood is a no-brainer for those looking to invest in their home for decades to come.
“For my money, a prefinished hardwood floor not only delivers the best value, but it’s probably the most accessible to install from a tools standpoint,” says general contractor Mark Clement, who points out that even the slightest slip-up on installation procedures with engineered “click-and-lock” hardwood can lead to a cancellation of the manufacturer’s warranty.
“With prefinished—or even unfinished—solid hardwood, there is a certain physicality to it that the [engineered] flooring doesn’t have. And once you get everything in place during installation, you’re off to the races.” More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

If you’ve ever gotten so into a living room dance party that you’ve slid across the floor on a rug, you know just how, uh, risky it can be to have nothing securing it. Fortunately, non-slip rug pads are on the scene to ensure the ground beneath your feet stays cushioned — and firmly anchored in place — while you’re trying out the latest moves.
But you don’t need to be cutting a rug, figuratively, for them to matter. Non-slip rug pads are a critical part of building the most comfortable space possible and also serve as a layer for safety and protection. They prevent rugs from having curling edges, shifting while vacuuming, or rocketing across the floor when the dog comes barreling in. The Home Depot carries them in a variety of materials, thicknesses, and construction styles, each tailored to specific types of rugs that you might have.

The room dictates the rug pad

All-Surface Thin Profile 4 ft. x 6 ft. Fiber and Rubber Backed Non-Slip Rug Pad
American Slide-Stop homedepot.com
$24.24

Perhaps the most important role rug pads play is ensuring that rugs stay completely tethered to one spot. This is particularly important in high-traffic areas, where “grip” non-slip rug pads, like those made out of extra-durable rubber, are ideal. Grip rug pads are also a solid choice in any indoor-outdoor setting, like a screened-in porch or sunroom, because they repel moisture, and are also helpful for when you want a rug to have a lower profile (think: anywhere a rug might prevent a door from opening).

Cushion non-slip rug pads (those that combine cushioning and gripping action) do exactly what they promise, adding an extra level of plush to your rug. These rug pads are best served in bedrooms, entertainment rooms, or anywhere people might end up sitting on the floor (like a play area). They typically have a felt top that provides support for the rug itself — and your body as you tackle an online yoga class — and a gripping rubber bottom to grab onto the floor. (If you can’t tell which side is which, the manufacturer’s instructions will usually clear it up.)

Non-Slip Comfort Grip 8 ft. x 10 ft. Rug Pad
nuLOOM homedepot.com
$25.19

In all cases, non-slip rug pads don’t just soften the blow of day-to-day trampling on your floors. They help a rug keep its shape more efficiently by reducing movement-induced friction. Non-slip rug pads can be used on any surface — tile, laminate, carpet, you name it — but if the flooring is slick, like hardwood, make sure your rug pad has sufficient gripping power by double-checking that it’s a “cushion-grip” pad and not simply a “cushion” pad.

Rug pads can lead a long and happy life (as long as your rug itself, if not longer) with a little bit of maintenance. According to Carolyn Forte, Good Housekeeping’s Home Appliances & Cleaning Products Director, make sure to vacuum the pad at least twice a year, and, in addition to the rug, don’t forget to check for and treat any stains on the rug pad if an accident occurs.

Size matters, but you can customize
Rug pads, particularly those made for area rugs, are often sold in standard sizes, but are infinitely simple to customize at home if your desired thickness and grip style doesn’t come ready-made.

Measure the rug itself, then subtract two inches from each side: that’s an ideal size for your rug pad. (You definitely don’t want a plain-looking rug pad poking out the side of your antique rug!) Trim the pad to fit using standard, sharp scissors, decide where exactly in the room the rug-and-pad combination will go and unfurl the pad with the rubber-side down (if felt and rubber). Just like that, you have a new, built-in support network for your rug that will keep your floors in tip-top shape — and trip-and-fall disasters at bay. More

A seamless transition between flooring is as important for looks as it is safety. More

For our September 2020 issue, Good Housekeeping teamed up with Chatbooks, an app-based photo-book company, to scour the U.S. and Canada for the smartest and most beautiful home office setups. What we found, done by both apartment dwellers and homeowners, just may inspire you to take your own work-from-home space to the next level.
Add a Cozy Sofa
Kari Bancroft, a stay-at-home mom in South Jordan, UT, decided to think beyond hard, uncomfortable chairs in her home office. Instead, she outfitted the space with a plush emerald green sofa that pairs well with her beloved animal prints and global-inspired pottery. The sofa works for her lifestyle too: She is mom to eight kids, ages 4 to 20, and uses her office space to read and to organize her many family photos. “My overall home office decorating approach is to showcase an eclectic mix of the things I love and make sure it functions as a versatile space,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: TIMBLIN ÉTAGÈRE BOOKCASE, $270, WAYFAIR.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Hang a Desk on the Wall
Rachel Mae Smith, whose blog is The Crafted Life, created her low-profile New York City office with a wall-mounted desk for two supported by a track shelving system. Pops of color, including brackets spray-painted in bright hues and dyed fabric swatches, pull the fun look together.

FOR SIMILAR: INDUSTRIAL RUSTIC WALL-MOUNTED TABLE, $100, AMAZON.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Consider High Shelves
Graphic designer and new mom Ashley Smith transformed a cedar-lined closet with white paint and high shelving for books and decorative storage. Ashley elevated the look with DIY display boards made from wood scraps. “I added some stain, wire and clips, and they became the perfect spot to hang anything important, like bills, invites and children’s artwork,” she says. Plus, she made a simple built-in desk for her large desktop. “We used inexpensive 1″ x 2″ common boards as supports underneath, then added a nice maple 3/4″ plywood top and 1″ x 3″ trim board to the front,” she says of the desk design in her Pittsburg, KS, home.

FOR SIMILAR: ART LEON 360-DEGREE SWIVEL HOME OFFICE CHAIR WITH CASTERS, $141, OVERSTOCK.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Take Advantage of a Chic Nook
Kaitlyn Fast of Birmingham, AL, let a large mirror set the foundation for her minimalist office nook. “It reflects all the natural light we have in this room and makes it easy to switch out the decor and flowers as each new season arrives,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: RICHARDS ACCENT MIRROR, $198, BIRCHLANE.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Put Your Office by the Stairs
With the help of her husband, Russel, Lindi Vanderschaaf turned an empty wall next to the stairs on the first floor of their Grande Prairie, Canada, home into a functional workspace. Russel made the desktop and shelves from stained plywood, which balances the design’s black-and-white color scheme. “The white of the desk drawers and walls really helps define the space,” Lindi says. “It almost feels like its own room now.”

FOR SIMILAR: GELLER DINING CHAIR, $120, TARGET.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Paint a Brick Wall
Megan Leonard of the lifestyle brand Our City Nest lives in Baltimore, a city known for row homes with exposed brick walls. So it only made sense to showcase this detail in her office space. “It provides an instant texture throughout my home that I love to pair with wood accents,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: CHANTRELL DESK, $330, WAYFAIR.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Make a Desk Out of Two Basic Dressers
After Sara Johnston’s 5-year-old son began feeling left out with her and her husband working from their Ontario, Canada, home, they decided to make an office for him right in the living room. “We painted two old IKEA dressers with leftover white paint and asked a local lumber provider for the top, which just happened to be shelving cut down to this specific size,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: HEMNES 3-DRAWER CHEST, $179, IKEA.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Turn Your Closet into an Office
Party stylist Kelsey Klos, who lives in Petaluma, CA, with her husband and three daughters under 5, transformed a closet into a simple but vibrant workstation. She used clear refrigerator organization bins to store supplies, cake stands to stack work projects, and playful accessories, like a rainbow garland, to show off her style.

FOR SIMILAR: SIMPLIFY HERRINGBONE LARGE STORAGE TOTE, $16, STAPLES.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Set Up a Workspace in Your Kitchen
Heather Keeling and her family of five decided to turn a corner of the kitchen in their Portland, OR, home into a bright and comfy work area. They opted for contemporary touches to achieve contrast. “The baby-blue penny tile is the perfect bridge between the 1960s and the modern day,” Heather says. Custom shelving, inspired by a mid-century modern credenza, completes the look.

FOR SIMILAR: PYRAMID BLACK DINING SIDE CHAIR BY MODWAY, $81, HOMEDEPOT.COM. NIRVANA BLISS RIMMED 1″ CIRCLES CERAMIC TILE, $9 PER SQ. FT., TILEBAR.COM.
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Capture Your Home Office and More!

Courtesy of Chatbooks

To find the standout home offices showcased in this feature, Good Housekeeping joined forces with Chatbooks, a company that makes affordable, high-quality photo books. These albums are great for displaying your favorite family photos or even before-and-after shots of a recent home project — think of them as personalized coffee table books. Just download the Chatbooks app and create an Ongoing Photo Book Series, and then for every 60 photos uploaded from your Instagram or camera roll it automatically creates a new book (starting at $10). More

Does your space feel a little… drab? Switching up your wall color in a trendy shade is the one of the quickest ways to rehab a tired space. And since it’s a project most homeowners can tackle themselves, it’s one of the most affordable, too.
But as easy as painting sounds, there are some tricks to the trade. Take prep work, for example. If you skip this important step, you could end up with a real problem on your hands — an undercoat that shows through or peeling paint. If you’re painting latex over oil, for example, you’ll likely get cracking, says Rachel Rothman, chief technologist and director of engineering at the Good Housekeeping Institute. These types of mistakes not only take time to remedy, but can also cost a significant amount of money if you have to hire a professional to fix your errors.
Don’t fret, though: As long as you’re using the right supplies and have a handle on the basics, you’ll be painting like a pro in no time at all. Here, we’ll break it all down for you, covering everything from supplies, to necessary prep, to rolling evenly, and even cleaning your brushes so you can move on to the next project on your list. Follow these tips for professional-looking results:
1. Make a plan.
Before you ever pick up a paint brush, you need a plan of attack. Think of it sort of like cooking: You want to read the recipe all the way through before you start blindly throwing ingredients into the pot, otherwise, you might get halfway through and realize you’re missing an important component.
Look up: Does the ceiling need a refresh, too? What about the trim? Consider your options on the walls as well. Will you be using one color — or do you want to try painting with two colors (an accent wall, perhaps)?
2. Select the perfect color.
When it comes to paint shades, the options are boundless. It’s a fortunate problem: While you’ll inevitably find just what your’e looking for, landing on the right hue can be quite the process. To guide your search, start by thinking about what you ultimately want. Do you envision a warm or a cool shade? Does your space warrant a bold color, or would a neutral be more appropriate? Once you have a general idea of the direction you want to go in, you can begin sifting through paint chips.
But don’t rely on the little square to make a final decision: Once on the wall, paint can look very different than it does on the sample card! Colors often look brighter once on the wall, and the light in your room can have a dramatic impact on the way the color reads. Pick a few finalists, then purchase sample cans.
3. Paint a sample swatch.
Once you have sample cans in hand, paint swatches on the wall. To give you a good idea of how the color will look in your space, paint two coats of color in a 12-inch-by-12-inch square. If your room has both sunny and shady spots, it’s smart to put swatches in both areas, as this can affect the final look.
Alternatively, you can paint two coats onto a foam board (available at any craft or office supply store) and tape it to the wall. This is a great option for those who don’t intend to get started right away, as you won’t have to live with random color streaks on your walls.
Pro tip: Use an inexpensive foam brush for this type of sample painting. This way, you won’t dirty a ton of brushes or waste money.
4. Calculate how much paint you need.
When determining how much paint to buy, many retailers have helpful calculators you can use. Always double check packaging, but in general, a gallon is roughly good for 250 to 400 square feet, says Rothman. And don’t forget: You’ll need a little extra for touch-ups and mistakes.
5. Gather the right materials.
Though the surface and size of what your painting will directly influence the exact list of supplies you need, it’s a good idea to stock your toolkit with some combination of the following items:
Painter’s tape
Drop cloths
Paint brushes (both angled and straight)
Paint roller
Paint tray
Stir stick
Paint
Other worthy investments: An extension pole, so you can stash away the ladder after the edging step; a paint-can opener; and a pour spout to lessen mess.
6. Prep the room for painting.
First, dry-dust the walls floor to ceiling and scrub any extra-grimy parts with a wet sponge or cloth; paint won’t adhere as well to a dirty surface (think fingerprints, soot, dust, cobwebs). Let dry before you paint.
Protect the floor and any furniture you can’t (or don’t want to) move, from paint splatters and spills. For the floor, choose fabric drop cloths instead of plastic ones, as plastic can be slick under your feet or, worse, the ladder.
Remove outlet and light switch plates and tape around any areas you don’t want painted (such as moldings, baseboards, or window frames) with painter’s masking tape or Frog Tape. The Good Housekeeping Institute tried the latter on a smooth wall and found that it makes a crisp line and doesn’t let paint bleed through.
7. Prime the wall (or don’t with our handy trick).
A bit of a hinderance when you’re trying to paint a room in one day: Painting over a dark wall with a light color (or covering stains) requires a coat of primer and two coats of paint — and at least six hours of drying time. (If you’re in a super humid room or painting the exterior on a humid day it will take a much longer, notes Rothman.)
That’s why GHI recommends Benjamin Moore Aura, a self-priming paint (it’s a cost-effective option if you were planning on buying primer). Going from light to light? You can get away with two coats of good-quality regular paint.
8. Mix the paint.
Though the store generally shakes the paint for you, a decent stir will ensure your paint is properly mixed. This is particularly important if the can has been sitting on a shelf for any length of time. Though an optional step, you can also strain the paint, says Rothman. “It’s easier to get rid of impurities from the paint can, rather than having them on your wall and having to fix it later.”
9. Get rolling!
Now you’re ready for the main event. If you’re painting a room with two colors — stripes, for example — start with the lighter color first, says Rothman. Once it’s dry, run painter’s tape over the divider, then paint the darker color.
If you’re painting a room one color, here’s how with a roller and a brush, according to the pros:
Use an angled brush or a sponge tool to “cut in,” or paint a two-inch swath around the edges of woodwork and the ceiling. (Don’t forget: These areas should be taped off, as explained in step five.)
Grab your paint tray and a roller. Use 1/4-inch nap for smooth surfaces, 3/8-inch nap for semi-smooth, or 5/8-inch nap for rough — the wrong tool will apply too much or too little paint. If using a latex paint, pre-wet the roller first, says Rothman.
Fill the well of the paint tray about ¼ of the way. Then, when loading the paint, roll the roller back and forth in the well until it is uniformly covered. Finally, move the roller back and forth in the upper portion to remove any excess.
Fill in the central unpainted space using the roller. Paint the wall in overlapping W- or M-shaped strokes for the most even paint distribution.
Let the first coat dry at least a couple of hours, then coat again. Between coats, cover the tray and brush with plastic wrap touching the paint surface, and refrigerate.
Pro tip: Have a moist rag handy to wipe fresh splatters. Scrape off dried drips with a credit card or plastic spatula.
10. Finish and clean up.
Rinse your paintbrush and roller (if you don’t toss it) under a faucet until the water runs clear.
Decant the tray’s leftover paint back into the can; seal the can tightly by placing a paper towel over the lid and tapping the lid edges with a hammer. Rinse the tray.
Once the brush’s bristles are totally dry, slip the brush back into its original paper wrapper to keep the bristles from fanning out, or try this DIY fix: Fold a thick piece of paper around the bristles; tape to secure.
Remove masking tape before you call it a night, pulling it off at a 45-degree angle to avoid tearing the finish.

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