Home Ideas

Kiss awkward yoga-in-the-laundry-room goodbye. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

While its likely not the first detail you think of when embarking on a flooring project, molding—whether for walls, floors, windows, or doors—helps a room become the most polished version of itself. Shoe molding and baseboard, two types of molding, secure the perimeter of a room and help create a clean, finished look between the floor and walls.

But there are a dizzying number of options that can cause choice paralysis if you’re not careful. So here’s a quick guide all about the role molding plays when it comes to flooring, and how to select a style that’s right for you from the collection at The Home Depot. Read up now, and you’re less likely to be stuck fretting over these final steps when the time comes.

Shoe molding: Mind the “expansion gap”

Shoe molding is the simplest (and most foundational) base molding type out there. It acts as a seam between flooring and a wall and covers the all-important “expansion gap”: a small vertical space which allows for the floor to inhale and exhale — relatively speaking — without buckling up against the wall and damaging itself. (For more information on hardwood floors, see letter H!)

WM129 7/16 in. x 11/16 in x 96 in. Base Shoe Moulding
Finished Elegance homedepot.com
$4.54

Also called “base shoe” because of its position at (you guessed it!) shoe level, this functional and flexible wood trim is found in most rooms with a hard flooring surface, whether that’s laminate, hardwood, tile, or luxury vinyl.

In addition to filling in the expansion gap and providing a buffer for any furniture that might bump up into the walls, shoe molding fills in the spaces where baseboard and floor don’t quite match up. (And since baseboards can be fairly ornate and sometimes lack straight lines on the bottom, this happens more often than you might think.)
Shoe molding, which is usually nailed into a baseboard using finishing nails and never into the wall, comes in a wide range of styles, shapes, and sizes. The style that works best for you depends on your home’s overall design aesthetic. Plain and simple quarter-round base shoe (named because it looks like a quarter cut of a dowel rod) will get the job done, but more ornate forms of pre-cut shoe molding are sleeker, and can range from arts-and-crafts-style to colonial and beyond. Most importantly, base shoe is taller than it is wide which ensures it doesn’t jut out into the room too far while still filling the expansion gap. On average, it clocks in at about ¾” to 1” in height and ½” in width.

The molding style that works best in your home depends on the overall design aesthetic.

Molding material also plays a big part in the overall finished look of a room. Molding that’s made from medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is an inexpensive solid-wood alternative that comes primed, but should be painted (and not stained) to give your space a complete look. It’s extra flexible, so if there are uneven spots on your baseboard, or even the flooring itself, it could be a smart choice.
Solid wood molding typically comes in two camps: pine (a softwood), which is relatively inexpensive and can be stained or painted, and hardwood (ash, oak, or walnut are common choices), which can also be stained or painted. If you’re feeling funky, try an unexpected finish, like painting the trim to match the walls instead of painting it traditional white, or stain it to match the floors.
But whatever you choose, don’t forget to paint or stain your shoe molding (and trim of any kind) prior to installing it.

Baseboards: They bring the drama

If shoe molding is the subtle element, quietly adding a protective finishing touch to your space, baseboards are the attention-grabbers that can completely change the feel of a room. Baseboard serves a similar purpose to shoe molding (tying together the floor-meets-wall area), but it is much taller and often more decorative. Often working in tandem with shoe molding (but occasionally standing alone), baseboards not only can add character to a room but help tie it to the design identity of other parts of the house.

5523 29/64 in. x 3-1/4 in. x 8 ft. PVC Composite White Colonial Base Moulding
Royal Building Products homedepot.com
$8.57

LWM 163E 9/16 in. x 5-1/4 in. Solid Pine Base Moulding
Woodgrain Millwork homedepot.com
$2.64

Timeless Craftsman 55E1 5-1/2 in. x 11/16 in. x 96 in. Primed MDF Base Moulding
Woodgrain Millwork homedepot.com
$11.27

WM 631 9/16 in. x 3-1/4 in. x 96 in. Primed Finger-Jointed Base Moulding
Woodgrain Millwork homedepot.com
$13.11

The most important factor to take into consideration with your baseboards is how they will feel in conjunction with other elements of the space. For example, if you have high ceilings in an older home and want to match that grandiose feel, go for an equally tall baseboard with a colonial design. Do you live in a more modern space? Flat baseboards are all the rage, adding a polished look without drawing too much attention. More

A seamless transition between flooring is as important for looks as it is safety. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Choosing the right flooring for your home means considering a laundry list of questions, from what kind of ambiance you’d like to how many shoes will be scuffling across it each day. When it gets down to decision-making time, though, the single biggest factor for most people is budget. Fortunately, there’s a material that’s accessible for almost everyone’s wallet: vinyl.
Vinyl might have a reputation for being cheap and flimsy, but this assumption belies the more modern versions on the market now. Today, vinyl is often manufactured to smartly mimic hardwood or tile, and is made up of a central core, a printed photo of the material it’s imitating, like distressed wood or ultra-sleek teak, and a clear, protective “wear layer” finish.
The Layers of Luxury Vinyl Flooring

The options for different looks are pretty much limitless — for example, The Home Depot stocks almost 1,000 options for vinyl planks — and on average costs much less than the flooring it’s emulating, between $2 to $5 per square foot. (In comparison, hardwood can go for upwards of $10 per square foot.)

Today, vinyl often means luxury vinyl

Hockley Oak 8.7 in. W x 47.64 in. L Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring (20.06 sq. ft./Case)
LifeProof homedepot.com
$63.98

When people talk about contemporary vinyl flooring, they’re likely referring to luxury vinyl (LV) flooring, which is made in plank form or tile form — not the rolled out sheets of the past — and is a serious step up over former iterations of the material.
Vinyl planks can vary in thickness, from approximately 2 millimeters to 8 millimeters, and denser planks will be your best bet in busier areas of the home, like hallways and living rooms, due to greater stability.
If you’re searching for vinyl flooring that can really hang tough against wear, a high-quality version of vinyl planks known as engineered vinyl planks (EVPs) are created with a “rigid core” system that makes them extra sturdy even when faced with the rowdiest situations. (They’re also completely waterproof, unlike some vinyl, which is only water resistant.) Whatever density of vinyl you select, the material is well-loved for its springiness and warmth, which is welcoming underfoot.

It’s a DIY-friendly material

Carrara Marble 12 in. x 24 in. Peel and Stick Vinyl Tile (20 sq. ft. / case)
TrafficMASTER homedepot.com
$22.40

If simple installation is what you’re after, you can’t get much easier than vinyl. Some brands use the “floating floor” technology that’s also common with laminate, in which planks simply click and lock together atop pretty much any previously existing surface without the need for nails or glue.
Others use a self-adhesive material that can be applied directly to a subfloor in a method that’s as painless as applying a giant, super-strong flooring sticker. With vinyl tiles, there’s even groutable versions to further enhance their look-a-like nature.

Clean-up is less of a chore
Thanks to the wear layer on top (which can last upwards of 10 years with proper care), simply sweeping and mopping on a regular basis will keep your floors looking tip-top, no scrubbing required. In fact, using too much elbow grease is pretty much the only way to harm your vinyl floors, so stay away from any harsh chemicals, rough scouring pads or steam cleaning.
Because of its easy-cleaning nature, spills and messes are less of a worry with vinyl than with other flooring types, making it a strong choice for spaces like playrooms, where fingerpainting is common, or kitchens, where pizza slices might go splat. Basements and bathrooms, which can sometimes be challenging places to apply new flooring due to moisture levels, are also primo spots for vinyl due to the fact that it’s less likely to warp under even the most humid conditions.

Vinyl is a go-to for rooms in the home that are prone to higher moisture levels, like bathrooms and basements.

Be mindful of the flip side
Of course, there are other aspects of vinyl to take into consideration before you choose it. Vinyl isn’t biodegradable, so if you’re looking to create a more sustainable home environment, it would be better to go with a different material, like cork or bamboo. While most versions will stand up against the scuffs and scrapes of day-to-day life, it can still be dented, particularly through moving heavy objects like furniture. And it won’t necessarily add long-term value to your home like actual hardwood or tile, so if you’re planning on selling or moving soon, don’t expect to make back your investment.
But if you’re in your home for the long haul and are looking for an inexpensive, easy-to-install way to update the look of your space? Vinyl just might be the answer. More

These decorative tiles pack a big punch. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

If there’s one element of flooring to consider an indispensable ally, it’s underlayment. A thin layer of material that runs between your visible flooring (hardwood, vinyl, tile, you name it) and the subfloor, it’s a hidden problem solver that can address several unexpected flooring issues. Whether you’re counting on it to create a sturdy, level surface for flooring, keep potential moisture damage at bay, reduce noise or all of the above, there’s an underlayment material out there suited specifically to your project, and it can be found at The Home Depot.

Underlayment is the barrier between flooring and subfloor

Underlayment is made from both “hard” and “soft” materials, which are used in different instances. “Hard” materials, like plywood and cement “backer” board, attach to the subfloor itself and are best for flooring types like tile. “Soft” materials, like foam, fiber and cork, work frequently with “floating” floor applications — including luxury vinyl, engineered hardwood and laminate — and aren’t attached to the subfloor directly.

Waterproof Underlayment for Vinyl, Laminate, Engineered Floors
Eco Cork Foam homedepot.com
$56.25

Underlayment with Sound and Moisture Barrier for Laminate & Engineered Flooring
QuietWalk homedepot.com
$47.03

HardieBacker Cement Backerboard
James Hardie homedepot.com
$11.48

Plywood Underlayment
The Home Depot homedepot.com
$6.99

The manufacturer will likely point you in the right direction as to what you need, so make sure to double check their recommendations. What’s more, many newer models of luxury vinyl and laminate floors come equipped with the underlayment already built-in, making it more DIY-friendly with no extra step necessary.

Underlayment makes things smooth and steady
Underlayment’s primary purpose is to create the smoothest, most supportive surface possible for visible flooring, and usually maxes out at about ¼” to ½” in thickness. This point is particularly important in situations where the subfloor isn’t exactly flat, like in older homes or fixer-uppers, and will ensure the durability and comfort of flooring as it inevitably responds to shifts over time.

It keeps things dry as a bone

No one wants mildew and mold building up beneath a floor’s surface, and without underlayment, it’s a major risk in many rooms of the home, especially basements. In any area where humidity tends to run high, a moisture-resistant underlayment — like pre-treated backerboard — will help keep water vapor from potentially damaging your freshly laid engineered hardwood or laminate, which can cause it to warp and buckle.

It helps minimize noise
If noise travels further in your house than you’d like, underlayment with noise-reduction properties should be on your radar. There are several rating systems that test flooring acoustics for evidence on how they stand up against foot fall, blaring TVs and everything in between. But when it comes to underlayment, the systems test known as the Delta IIC is your best resource, which specifically helps determine how effective different types of underlayment are when it comes to canceling out noise.
The higher the Delta IIC score, the greater the degree of noise cancellation (measured in decibels) that the sound-reduction underlayment has added. Underlayment made from felt, rubber or recycled fibers are often used to great effect here, and are helpful in any sort of high-traffic area, not just in an at-home recording studio. Bonus: underlayment that absorbs sound can often be good at trapping heat, helping floors retain warmth for longer when temperatures take a downward turn.

Consider eco-friendly cork

200 sq. ft. 1/4 in. Cork Underlayment Roll
QEP homedepot.com
$128.84

It might run on the pricier side, but cork is an eco-friendly, naturally bug repellant, hypoallergenic and sound-absorbing underlayment option for homeowners committed to a greener lifestyle. Cork is also an excellent energy conductor, so it’s a good option if you have radiant heat.
Just don’t use it in any area that’s prone to dampness: even with a moisture barrier, cork’s porous nature means it won’t perform as well under those conditions. More

For our September 2020 issue, Good Housekeeping teamed up with Chatbooks, an app-based photo-book company, to scour the U.S. and Canada for the smartest and most beautiful home office setups. What we found, done by both apartment dwellers and homeowners, just may inspire you to take your own work-from-home space to the next level.
Add a Cozy Sofa
Kari Bancroft, a stay-at-home mom in South Jordan, UT, decided to think beyond hard, uncomfortable chairs in her home office. Instead, she outfitted the space with a plush emerald green sofa that pairs well with her beloved animal prints and global-inspired pottery. The sofa works for her lifestyle too: She is mom to eight kids, ages 4 to 20, and uses her office space to read and to organize her many family photos. “My overall home office decorating approach is to showcase an eclectic mix of the things I love and make sure it functions as a versatile space,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: TIMBLIN ÉTAGÈRE BOOKCASE, $270, WAYFAIR.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Hang a Desk on the Wall
Rachel Mae Smith, whose blog is The Crafted Life, created her low-profile New York City office with a wall-mounted desk for two supported by a track shelving system. Pops of color, including brackets spray-painted in bright hues and dyed fabric swatches, pull the fun look together.

FOR SIMILAR: INDUSTRIAL RUSTIC WALL-MOUNTED TABLE, $100, AMAZON.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Consider High Shelves
Graphic designer and new mom Ashley Smith transformed a cedar-lined closet with white paint and high shelving for books and decorative storage. Ashley elevated the look with DIY display boards made from wood scraps. “I added some stain, wire and clips, and they became the perfect spot to hang anything important, like bills, invites and children’s artwork,” she says. Plus, she made a simple built-in desk for her large desktop. “We used inexpensive 1″ x 2″ common boards as supports underneath, then added a nice maple 3/4″ plywood top and 1″ x 3″ trim board to the front,” she says of the desk design in her Pittsburg, KS, home.

FOR SIMILAR: ART LEON 360-DEGREE SWIVEL HOME OFFICE CHAIR WITH CASTERS, $141, OVERSTOCK.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Take Advantage of a Chic Nook
Kaitlyn Fast of Birmingham, AL, let a large mirror set the foundation for her minimalist office nook. “It reflects all the natural light we have in this room and makes it easy to switch out the decor and flowers as each new season arrives,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: RICHARDS ACCENT MIRROR, $198, BIRCHLANE.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Put Your Office by the Stairs
With the help of her husband, Russel, Lindi Vanderschaaf turned an empty wall next to the stairs on the first floor of their Grande Prairie, Canada, home into a functional workspace. Russel made the desktop and shelves from stained plywood, which balances the design’s black-and-white color scheme. “The white of the desk drawers and walls really helps define the space,” Lindi says. “It almost feels like its own room now.”

FOR SIMILAR: GELLER DINING CHAIR, $120, TARGET.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Paint a Brick Wall
Megan Leonard of the lifestyle brand Our City Nest lives in Baltimore, a city known for row homes with exposed brick walls. So it only made sense to showcase this detail in her office space. “It provides an instant texture throughout my home that I love to pair with wood accents,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: CHANTRELL DESK, $330, WAYFAIR.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Make a Desk Out of Two Basic Dressers
After Sara Johnston’s 5-year-old son began feeling left out with her and her husband working from their Ontario, Canada, home, they decided to make an office for him right in the living room. “We painted two old IKEA dressers with leftover white paint and asked a local lumber provider for the top, which just happened to be shelving cut down to this specific size,” she says.

FOR SIMILAR: HEMNES 3-DRAWER CHEST, $179, IKEA.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Turn Your Closet into an Office
Party stylist Kelsey Klos, who lives in Petaluma, CA, with her husband and three daughters under 5, transformed a closet into a simple but vibrant workstation. She used clear refrigerator organization bins to store supplies, cake stands to stack work projects, and playful accessories, like a rainbow garland, to show off her style.

FOR SIMILAR: SIMPLIFY HERRINGBONE LARGE STORAGE TOTE, $16, STAPLES.COM
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Set Up a Workspace in Your Kitchen
Heather Keeling and her family of five decided to turn a corner of the kitchen in their Portland, OR, home into a bright and comfy work area. They opted for contemporary touches to achieve contrast. “The baby-blue penny tile is the perfect bridge between the 1960s and the modern day,” Heather says. Custom shelving, inspired by a mid-century modern credenza, completes the look.

FOR SIMILAR: PYRAMID BLACK DINING SIDE CHAIR BY MODWAY, $81, HOMEDEPOT.COM. NIRVANA BLISS RIMMED 1″ CIRCLES CERAMIC TILE, $9 PER SQ. FT., TILEBAR.COM.
Courtesy of Chatbooks

Capture Your Home Office and More!

Courtesy of Chatbooks

To find the standout home offices showcased in this feature, Good Housekeeping joined forces with Chatbooks, a company that makes affordable, high-quality photo books. These albums are great for displaying your favorite family photos or even before-and-after shots of a recent home project — think of them as personalized coffee table books. Just download the Chatbooks app and create an Ongoing Photo Book Series, and then for every 60 photos uploaded from your Instagram or camera roll it automatically creates a new book (starting at $10). More

Does your space feel a little… drab? Switching up your wall color in a trendy shade is the one of the quickest ways to rehab a tired space. And since it’s a project most homeowners can tackle themselves, it’s one of the most affordable, too.
But as easy as painting sounds, there are some tricks to the trade. Take prep work, for example. If you skip this important step, you could end up with a real problem on your hands — an undercoat that shows through or peeling paint. If you’re painting latex over oil, for example, you’ll likely get cracking, says Rachel Rothman, chief technologist and director of engineering at the Good Housekeeping Institute. These types of mistakes not only take time to remedy, but can also cost a significant amount of money if you have to hire a professional to fix your errors.
Don’t fret, though: As long as you’re using the right supplies and have a handle on the basics, you’ll be painting like a pro in no time at all. Here, we’ll break it all down for you, covering everything from supplies, to necessary prep, to rolling evenly, and even cleaning your brushes so you can move on to the next project on your list. Follow these tips for professional-looking results:
1. Make a plan.
Before you ever pick up a paint brush, you need a plan of attack. Think of it sort of like cooking: You want to read the recipe all the way through before you start blindly throwing ingredients into the pot, otherwise, you might get halfway through and realize you’re missing an important component.
Look up: Does the ceiling need a refresh, too? What about the trim? Consider your options on the walls as well. Will you be using one color — or do you want to try painting with two colors (an accent wall, perhaps)?
2. Select the perfect color.
When it comes to paint shades, the options are boundless. It’s a fortunate problem: While you’ll inevitably find just what your’e looking for, landing on the right hue can be quite the process. To guide your search, start by thinking about what you ultimately want. Do you envision a warm or a cool shade? Does your space warrant a bold color, or would a neutral be more appropriate? Once you have a general idea of the direction you want to go in, you can begin sifting through paint chips.
But don’t rely on the little square to make a final decision: Once on the wall, paint can look very different than it does on the sample card! Colors often look brighter once on the wall, and the light in your room can have a dramatic impact on the way the color reads. Pick a few finalists, then purchase sample cans.
3. Paint a sample swatch.
Once you have sample cans in hand, paint swatches on the wall. To give you a good idea of how the color will look in your space, paint two coats of color in a 12-inch-by-12-inch square. If your room has both sunny and shady spots, it’s smart to put swatches in both areas, as this can affect the final look.
Alternatively, you can paint two coats onto a foam board (available at any craft or office supply store) and tape it to the wall. This is a great option for those who don’t intend to get started right away, as you won’t have to live with random color streaks on your walls.
Pro tip: Use an inexpensive foam brush for this type of sample painting. This way, you won’t dirty a ton of brushes or waste money.
4. Calculate how much paint you need.
When determining how much paint to buy, many retailers have helpful calculators you can use. Always double check packaging, but in general, a gallon is roughly good for 250 to 400 square feet, says Rothman. And don’t forget: You’ll need a little extra for touch-ups and mistakes.
5. Gather the right materials.
Though the surface and size of what your painting will directly influence the exact list of supplies you need, it’s a good idea to stock your toolkit with some combination of the following items:
Painter’s tape
Drop cloths
Paint brushes (both angled and straight)
Paint roller
Paint tray
Stir stick
Paint
Other worthy investments: An extension pole, so you can stash away the ladder after the edging step; a paint-can opener; and a pour spout to lessen mess.
6. Prep the room for painting.
First, dry-dust the walls floor to ceiling and scrub any extra-grimy parts with a wet sponge or cloth; paint won’t adhere as well to a dirty surface (think fingerprints, soot, dust, cobwebs). Let dry before you paint.
Protect the floor and any furniture you can’t (or don’t want to) move, from paint splatters and spills. For the floor, choose fabric drop cloths instead of plastic ones, as plastic can be slick under your feet or, worse, the ladder.
Remove outlet and light switch plates and tape around any areas you don’t want painted (such as moldings, baseboards, or window frames) with painter’s masking tape or Frog Tape. The Good Housekeeping Institute tried the latter on a smooth wall and found that it makes a crisp line and doesn’t let paint bleed through.
7. Prime the wall (or don’t with our handy trick).
A bit of a hinderance when you’re trying to paint a room in one day: Painting over a dark wall with a light color (or covering stains) requires a coat of primer and two coats of paint — and at least six hours of drying time. (If you’re in a super humid room or painting the exterior on a humid day it will take a much longer, notes Rothman.)
That’s why GHI recommends Benjamin Moore Aura, a self-priming paint (it’s a cost-effective option if you were planning on buying primer). Going from light to light? You can get away with two coats of good-quality regular paint.
8. Mix the paint.
Though the store generally shakes the paint for you, a decent stir will ensure your paint is properly mixed. This is particularly important if the can has been sitting on a shelf for any length of time. Though an optional step, you can also strain the paint, says Rothman. “It’s easier to get rid of impurities from the paint can, rather than having them on your wall and having to fix it later.”
9. Get rolling!
Now you’re ready for the main event. If you’re painting a room with two colors — stripes, for example — start with the lighter color first, says Rothman. Once it’s dry, run painter’s tape over the divider, then paint the darker color.
If you’re painting a room one color, here’s how with a roller and a brush, according to the pros:
Use an angled brush or a sponge tool to “cut in,” or paint a two-inch swath around the edges of woodwork and the ceiling. (Don’t forget: These areas should be taped off, as explained in step five.)
Grab your paint tray and a roller. Use 1/4-inch nap for smooth surfaces, 3/8-inch nap for semi-smooth, or 5/8-inch nap for rough — the wrong tool will apply too much or too little paint. If using a latex paint, pre-wet the roller first, says Rothman.
Fill the well of the paint tray about ¼ of the way. Then, when loading the paint, roll the roller back and forth in the well until it is uniformly covered. Finally, move the roller back and forth in the upper portion to remove any excess.
Fill in the central unpainted space using the roller. Paint the wall in overlapping W- or M-shaped strokes for the most even paint distribution.
Let the first coat dry at least a couple of hours, then coat again. Between coats, cover the tray and brush with plastic wrap touching the paint surface, and refrigerate.
Pro tip: Have a moist rag handy to wipe fresh splatters. Scrape off dried drips with a credit card or plastic spatula.
10. Finish and clean up.
Rinse your paintbrush and roller (if you don’t toss it) under a faucet until the water runs clear.
Decant the tray’s leftover paint back into the can; seal the can tightly by placing a paper towel over the lid and tapping the lid edges with a hammer. Rinse the tray.
Once the brush’s bristles are totally dry, slip the brush back into its original paper wrapper to keep the bristles from fanning out, or try this DIY fix: Fold a thick piece of paper around the bristles; tape to secure.
Remove masking tape before you call it a night, pulling it off at a 45-degree angle to avoid tearing the finish.

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