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When you invest in a new set of sheets or towels, it’s normal to wonder how long they’ll stay in their best condition. After all, you purchase these items to use them regularly, and there are few household items that go through as many wash cycles as bedding, bath and tabletop fabrics, whether that’s pillowcases, washcloths or table linens.If you fine-tune a few key regular practices, though, you will ensure their lifespan for years to come. Some brands make this easier — Linger Home’s linens, towels and more are made from high-quality and sustainably-sourced materials like French flax linen, organic cotton, and USA-grown Supima cotton, which can put you ahead of the starting line when it comes to care. (Bonus: Their products are also Oeko-Tex certified, which means they’ve been tested ensure there isn’t an unsafe level of chemicals present.)
By following guidelines that our Good Housekeeping experts rely on, you’ll guarantee your textiles stick around in tip-top shape, making day-to-day routines just a little bit softer.
In the Bedroom
Bedsheets and Pillowcases
Typical lifespan: two to three yearsHow to help them last longer: Having the most welcoming sheets possible is key for both evening wind down time and a good night’s sleep.
“From a construction standpoint, think about replacing your sheets if they start to look thin,” says Lexie Sachs, Good Housekeeping Institute’s Textile Director. Sheets tear over time, especially with the friction of tossing and turning. She also notes that torn hems and discoloration are clear signs that new sheets should be on your horizon. “If they start to feel scratchy, it might be time to replace them.”

100% Supima Cotton, 500 Thread Count Sateen Solid Sheet Set
lingerhome.com
$149.00

100% Fine European Linen Sheet Set
lingerhome.com
$249.00

100% Supima Cotton, 400 Thread Count Percale Solid Sheet Set
lingerhome.com
$129.00

100% Supima Cotton, 400 Thread Count Percale Ogee Embroidered Hem Sheet Set
lingerhome.com
$139.00

Having two (or, ideally, three) different sets to cycle through will also help extend the life of your sheets, along with washing them once a week. “Some people don’t change their sheets for a long time and that’s really not good,” says Carolyn Forte, Cleaning Lab Director at the Good Housekeeping Institute. She points out that pillowcases are particularly prone to makeup stains and sweat. “Sheets and pillowcases hold on to all of those skin cells, so washing them every one to two weeks is important.”
Comforters and Duvets
Typical lifespan: 5 to 15 years

European Goose Down Duvet Insert
lingerhome.com
$349.00

How to help them last longer: Both comforters and duvets can have a lengthy lifespan if you rotate them out in the summer months for a lighter blanket or quilt, but their longevity also depends on the type of filling material used.
Down alternative duvet inserts are less expensive and great for people with allergies to down or feathers, but they need to be replaced once they begin to lose their shape. Goose down tends to hold onto its fluffy construction well, but is generally warmer than down alternative, making a summertime bedding swap pretty much a given. With both types, look for a duvet insert that uses a “baffle box” construction.
“Baffle box construction is where there are individual pieces of fabric within the boxes of the duvet so that it prevents the fill from shifting around,” says Sachs. “Otherwise, the filling can clump up easily.”
Preventing clumping is also critical when washing and drying duvets and comforters. “Make sure you use a large capacity washing machine and the “bedding” cycle, if your machine has one, because if [the duvet] is crammed in, there’s going to be friction, which means there’s going to be abrasion,” Forte notes. And when it comes to drying these snuggly staples, it’s important to fluff them up as thoroughly as possible—particularly those of the down variety. “You want to make sure your down is as dry and as fluffy as possible because it’s going to insulate you better,” she says.
Duvet and pillow protectors can also help lengthen the life of your bedding by adding an extra line of defense between the plush inner-material and the outside elements.
In the Kitchen
Dish Towels
Typical lifespan: one yearHow to help them last longer: “Dish towels aren’t going to be the same type of construction as bath towels,” says Sachs. “They’re a little bit less absorbent.” And while this means they’ll dry faster than bath towels, the downside is that they should be swapped out more frequently.
Forte recommends keeping one dish towel specifically for drying dishes, and another that’s only for drying your hands, rotating the hand towel as frequently as a hand towel in the bathroom. Dish cloths, on the other hand—which come into contact with food particles when they scrub dirty dishes—should be washed as often as possible to prevent odor penetration (ideally everyday or every other day).
In the Bathroom
Bath Towels and Hand Towels

Linger Home

Typical lifespan: two to four yearsHow to help them last longer: Loose fibers, fraying around the towel’s edges and loss of absorbency are all signs that it’s time to swap your towels out for a new set.
“Most bath towels have cotton loops that make them really full and absorbent,” says Sachs. “If the loops start to come undone so that you see stringy pieces of the towel, or the hems around it are unraveling, those are signs of wear.”
And while towels are extremely adept at drying off human bodies, they’re not so quick to dry on their own. If left in a pile on the floor or not hung-up to air out after a shower or bath, they stand the chance of developing mold, mildew and other bacteria that contributes to a shorter towel lifespan, and some musty odors. Forte recommends using a towel bar for hanging used towels instead of a hook (it helps them to air out quicker), and emphasizes that the faster you can get a towel up and drying, the fresher it’ll stay.

100% Organic Cotton Turkish Bath Sheet
lingerhome.com
$45.00

100% Organic Cotton Turkish Dobby Design Bath Towel Set
lingerhome.com
$105.00

100% Organic Cotton Turkish Dobby Design Hand Towels (Pair)
lingerhome.com
$25.00

100% Organic Cotton Turkish Bath Mat
lingerhome.com
$25.00

Using the right laundering techniques can also do wonders for the longevity of bathroom textiles. Bath towels should be washed after at least every three or four uses, while hand towels and washcloths should be washed and rotated more frequently. Wash towels in warm to hot water, using fabric softener on occasion. (Avoid using it in every load because it has a tendency to coat fibers and trap hard water minerals, making the towels feel stiff.)
If your towels seem more scratchy than plush, a vinegar wash can help get them back to their normal, cozy feel. Add a half-cup of vinegar in the wash cycle and a half-cup of vinegar in the rise cycle —with no detergent—the next time you pop in a load, and that should do the trick.
In the Dining Room
Napkins and Tablecloths
Typical lifespan: 10 years or more (heirloom potential!)

100% European Flax Linen Napkins With Merrow Edge Stitching (Set of 4)
lingerhome.com
$40.00

How to help them last longer: Napkins, tablecloths and runners can last a lifetime, with well-preserved versions frequently passed down from generation to generation. But stains are always a threat to the longevity of tabletop textiles.
“Make sure when a spill happens on your napkins or tablecloth that you blot it right away—get to it as quickly as you can,” says Forte. “Then don’t let it sit in the hamper or the laundry basket for a week — just wash it promptly.”
When a stain-making incident strikes with guests over, and you can’t exactly grab their napkin and run mid-dinner, have your washing machine pull double-duty as a soaking station after everyone leaves. “Use your washing machine to soak the napkins or tablecloth so it’ll keep the stains from setting. Then it’ll be easier to remove when you do have time to wash it,” says Forte.
Stains aside, how often to wash your napkins depends on how frequently and in what way they’re being used. Cloth napkins that mostly serve a decorative purpose might not need to be washed after each meal, but it goes without saying that any napkin that has touched someone’s mouth, nose or facial area should get an immediate wash.
Applying a stain repellant to tablecloths can also help it resist any potential red wine disasters before they occur, keeping your dining room showpiece pristine for years to come.
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Regular touch-ups mean you can have your Sunday afternoons back. More

Whether you’re hanging pictures or a new TV, a bit of wall decor does wonders to make a room feel cohesive and complete. But before you pick up that hammer to put the finishing touches on your space, stop to consider what it is you’re hanging.
To securely hang anything heavy — substantial pictures, wall-mounted shelves, a mirror, or tech equipment, for example — you’ll need to locate a wall stud, a vertical piece of framing within your walls, says Rachel Rothman, chief technologist and director of engineering at the Good Housekeeping Institute. Otherwise, whatever it is you’re hanging won’t have something sturdy to latch on to, leaving your piece susceptible to falling, which can damage your wall in the process.
Here’s how to find a stud in the wall quickly and easily, with or without a stud finder:
1. Locate the nearest light switch or power outlet
The most reliable method, find a light switch or a power outlet, says Rothman. Electrical boxes are typically attached to studs, so start by locating the one nearest to the area where you want to place something that needs a little extra reinforcement. Then, measure 16 inches from there, since wall studs are typically spaced 16 inches apart by code, she explains. (Some are placed 24 inches apart, so you may have to measure twice.)
2. Look for dimples in the wall
Though less reliable than the above method, dimples are a telltale sign of where drywall is fastened to the edge of a stud, particularly in plaster walls, says Rothman. You can sometimes spot these with the naked eye, but a flashlight can be helpful for illuminating any slight dimples in the wall. To try this trick, hold the flashlights upright, parallel to the wall.
3. Use windows as a guide
Windows usually have a stud on each side, but finding the edges can be tricky, rendering this method less reliable than the ones noted above, says Rothman. Still, when all else fails, locating the edge of your window and measuring 16 inches from there can help provide some general guidance.
4. Tap the wall
To verify whether or not you’ve found a stud without doing any damage to your wall, knock or tap the area gently with your hammer, says Rothman. If you hear a hollow or empty sound, tap a little to the left or to the right. When the sound is muffled, you’ll know you’ve hit a stud.
5. Drill a hole
No matter which method you use, you should always confirm your findings before proceeding to hang your piece. To do so, drill a hole in the wall. You’ll know you’ve hit wood (a stud!) if you feel resistance.
6. Fish around with a wire hanger
If you can’t find the stud even after drilling, there’s one more technique you can try: Grab a wire hanger and untwist it, fashioning it into a right angle. Use your new tool to fish around behind the wall, says Rothman. When the wire makes contact with a firm object, that indicates you’ve found a stud.
7. Try a stud finder app
Today, there’s an app for just about everything — and that includes finding studs. Most stud finder apps are magnetic, which means they rely on your smartphone’s built-in magnetometer to pinpoint metal objects inside the wall. While this can help you find a wall stud, it can also turn up a false positive, since the app may detect things other than studs, like nails or electrical wires, says Rothman.
8. Or just use a stud finder!
The easiest way to find a stud: With a stud finder, a handheld gadget, like this one, that does the hunting for you. To use a stud finder, decide where you want to hang your item, then place the stud finder in the approximate spot the mounting hardware would sit. Hold the tool flat against the wall, slowly sliding it horizontally to the left or right. Depending on your model, it will flash or beep to alert you to a stud.
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Whether you’re plotting out an expansive gallery wall or hanging a single piece of affordable artwork, it’s a relatively easy task the average homeowner can take on themselves. There are no power tools necessary — typically just a hammer, a nail, and a level.
But there are a few things you should know before you drive anything into drywall, plaster, or even brick — like what kind of hardware to use, how to choose the right height, and how to find a wall stud. The advanced planning is well worth the effort: It will save you from putting unnecessary holes in the wall, a mistake that can cost you both time and money.
1. Consider the wall surface
Drywall: If the wall you’re working with is made from drywall, you’re in luck — this is the easiest material to work with, since it’s an easy material to penetrate. Just be sure to locate a wall stud, since hanging directly on drywall won’t provide a secure anchor. If a solid stud isn’t available, it’s important to use a drywall anchor to hang pictures.
Plaster: These walls (often found in older homes) are a little trickier, as they have a tendency to crumble. Approach the process same way you would when working with drywall: Look for a wall stud for the most secure anchor. Just note that when hanging pictures on a plaster wall, it’s always a good idea to pre-drill your hole. To prevent crumbling, place a piece of painter’s tape on the wall before drilling.
Brick: If your walls are brick, you’ll need to use a wall anchor. And use a masonry bit on your drill to drill into mortar, not the actual brick.
2. Choose your hanging hardware
If you’ve ever looked at the back of a picture frame, you know there are multiple hardware options, including D-rings, sawtooth hangers, and wire. Some frames even come with more than one option. So which one should you choose? The short answer: It depends on what method you’re most comfortable with. Here, a few options:
How to hang a picture with a nail: A single nail can likely do the trick and is easiest method if the frame comes with a hook or sawtooth hanger, says Rachel Rothman, chief technologist and director of engineering at the Good Housekeeping Institute. This method also leaves the least amount of damage in its wake, since simple nail holes can be as small as pin dots. Driving the nail into a wall stud will offer the most support, especially for anything above about five pounds. Just be sure to drive the nail in at a degree angle, says Rothman.
How to hang a picture with wire: For greater stability, consider hanging your picture with a wire suspended between two D-rings opposite each other, says Rothman. The process is the same as it is when hanging a picture with nails, just two-fold.
And how to hang a picture without nails: If you’re hesitant to make any holes in your walls, adhesive-backed picture hooks and strips are great options for lighter frames. (Check the manufacturer’s specifications, but these options typically max out around 15 pounds, says Rothman.) These products are also great for plaster and brick surfaces, since these wall materials are more prone to crumbling and cracking.
3. Measure the ideal height
To measure the right height like a pro, memorize this fact: Eye level is approximately 57 to 60 inches from the floor, says Rothman. Since the middle of the painting should sit at this height, you’ll need to do a little bit of math to get it just right. Our GHI pro tip: Take the height of the frame, divide it by two, subtract the distance from the top of the frame to the hardware, then add 60.
4. Make sure it’s perfectly level
Once you confirm the height at which you’ll hang your picture, use a pencil to mark the wall. If you’re using a wire or more than one hook, use a level to ensure the marks are at the same height, says Rothman. If the room slopes, feel free to cheat a bit to make it look straight.
5. Finally, hang your picture
Now, you can finally put your decor on the wall. Once secure on the wall, use a level one more time, tweaking as necessary, to ensure everything is just right.
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When treated properly, a beautiful pan should last you a lifetime. Innovations like ceramic non-stick interiors and design-forward finishes have made quality cookware must-have equipment for home cooks. But there’s nothing worse than marring your beautiful new Dutch oven with cooked-on stains and scratches, or ruining a perfectly-seasoned cast iron pan.
It’s important to use a non-scratch sponge for most, like the Scotch-Brite™ Brand’s line of Scrub Dots Non-Scratch Sponges, though some scenarios call for a more heavy-duty pass with a bristle brush. Here’s a handy dishwashing guide to help you keep your pots and pans at their most effective and most sparkling.
A Classic Cast Iron

Scotch-Brite™ Advanced Soap Control Dishwand Brush

Cast iron pans are kitchen workhorses—they’re inexpensive, incredibly sturdy, and heat evenly. They do need a little extra love to keep them well-seasoned and rust-free. Yours should never go in the dishwasher or be left to soak for any period of time.

First, never heat your pan without at least a little oil in it, which will help build up a polymer finish that’s practically non-stick. Then after cooking, brush your pan free of food residue using an ergonomic wand with bristles, like Scotch-Brite™ Brand’s version that’s designed to dispense dish soap as needed. (Contrary to popular belief, soap won’t ruin your seasoning — it’s water that’s the true enemy here).
If you can, take a few extra moments to wipe your pan dry after washing to avoid prolonged contact with moisture. If your pan starts to look dull or rusty, wash it thoroughly, then dry it over low heat on a burner. Apply a neutral oil to the pan when cool, which will restore the glossy, protective finish.
Your Centerpiece Dutch Oven

Scotch-Brite® Advanced Scrub Dots Non-Scratch Scrubbers
bit.ly

Perfect for braises or big batches of baked pasta, a Dutch oven is an investment piece that’s as useful as it is beautiful. Most have enameled interiors, and they come in a rainbow of sophisticated exterior shades (chances are you’ve seen some vibrant new options popping up in your friends’ kitchens).
Though they’re infinitely useful, these pots do present a little bit of a cleaning catch-22 — as with any enamel surface, you want to avoid cleaning with anything too harsh, but the heavy-duty cooking these pans are suited for often requires a little extra elbow grease. The right sponge is key to banishing things like cooked-on cheese without ruining the finish. Look for one with a wider surface area, like the Scotch-Brite® Advanced Scrub Dots Non-Scratch Scrubbers, which also has an angled shape that handily gets into corners. Soaking is also okay in this case, if you completely forgot to take that ziti out of the oven.
Timeless Stainless Steel

Lightweight, available in a variety of price points, and designed to heat up quickly, there’s many reasons why stainless steel pans are the go-to choice for professional chefs and a staple for home cooks. The downside? Things like scorched tomato sauce can be a pain to scrub off and ruin that mirror-shiny finish. For everyday cleaning, a sturdy sponge should be enough to do the trick.

When those really stuck-on messes pop-up, try filling the pan with water and a spoonful of white vinegar then bringing to a simmer. Allow to cool and empty the water mixture — you should find that any remaining gunk is softened and scrubs away easily. For exterior spills, rely on a non-scratch scrubber over harsh options like steel wool, which can leave permanent marks. And in good news, air drying works just fine here.
The New Non-Stick

There are many non-toxic, non-stick finishes available, and ceramic options are quickly gaining popularity due to their increased heat tolerance, some up to 500 degrees F, reports the Good Housekeeping Appliances and Technology lab. Some non-stick pans are dishwasher safe, but since they easily release every type of food, a gentle wipe is often all you need.

Scotch-Brite® Scrub Dots Non-Scratch Scrub Sponge

The unique texture of the Scotch-Brite® Scrub Dots Non-Scratch Scrub Sponge is effective and non-scratch—use the soft side to wipe the pan clear, and the scrubby one for the rare spot of leftover egg or melted cheese—nothing will stick to the surface, which rinses clean for your next round of washing up. The most important rule of thumb? Never stack your non-stick cookware after cleaning. The bottoms of other pans and cookware are often the source of those annoying surface scratches that seem to appear out of nowhere.
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