Home Ideas

Maintaining an organized home just makes life easier. When everything is in its place, you can move through your day with ease. Who wouldn’t want that? That’s why we’re taking you inside some of the most organized — and stylish — spaces crafted by some of our favorite design influencers and tastemakers. Get ready to take inspiration from the Organization Chronicles.
The kitchen is the heart of the home, and when you’re a mom of five, this is even more true. Consider the case of Atlanta-based interior designer Erika Ward, who admits it was imperative for her recent kitchen renovation to be conducive to her active lifestyle, especially now that she and her husband are working more from home.
Ward craved a comfortable yet stylish cooking space that would make it easy to prepare meals but also encourage her kids to assist with the clean-up afterwards (a.k.a. every parent’s dream). “My main concerns were how to control the clutter so the kids can help, how to make the surfaces easy to clean, and how to make it look pretty,” Ward says of her practical design vision.
Ward got her wish, thanks to a timeless design scheme with brilliant storage solutions. Here’s how she created her well-organized kitchen:
Maximize Cabinet Space

Rustic White Interiors

Rather than replacing the kitchen cabinets, Ward took the sustainable route and opted to salvage them. She enlisted a professional to give them a new look with a hard coat finish that complemented the overall design scheme, which Ward says “takes inspiration from the Caribbean” with its watery blue backsplash. Once the aesthetic part of the job was handled, pull-out drawer systems to store large pots and pans were installed in the kitchen’s lower cabinets. Concealing them in drawers was also a simple way to free up visual space in her kitchen.
Make Use of Under-the-Sink Storage
Under Ward’s sink is a drip tray to protect the cabinets from leaks and spills, as well as a pull-out drawer for garbage and recycling. A trash system of this nature is especially great for kids who are beginning to learn the value of self-reliance and accountability. “As you are encouraging your children to take on more responsibility at home and help out with chores, having this organization system helps them to know where things go,” Ward says.
Minimal Floating Shelves

Rustic White Interiors

There’s more than enough cabinetry in Ward’s kitchen, but there are a select number of frequently used items that made sense to keep within reach. The perfect solution? A pair of open shelves on either side of the range hood for a canister of lemons, a few of her favorite cookbooks, and a collection of dishes. But this sleek shelving solution doesn’t just serve a functional purpose—introducing this form of symmetry in the design scheme is visually appealing, too.
A Mounted Spice Rack

Courtesy of Erika Ward

Regardless of your design aesthetic, mounting your spice rack might work well for your kitchen setup. Ward loves nothing more than experimenting with recipes and testing different spices, so she made the decision to mount her assortment right on a cabinet door. “When you don’t take advantage of that interior door space—especially if you are lacking storage—it is a missed opportunity,” she says.
Having a well-organized kitchen can not only help you to make the most of your space—it’s also a great way to include the entire family in maintaining it and find more joy in cooking, even if you consider yourself an amateur chef.
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Whether you’re a beginner or an expert, here’s what you should look for. More

William Hereford

Spare rooms often become catchalls: They might house your WFH setup, your home gym yoga mat and weights, boxes of Halloween decorations that don’t fit anywhere else and, crammed in the middle, a bed for guests. While there’s no shame in getting the most out of your square footage, there’s so much to be said for offering a thoughtful, well-appointed room for overnight (or longer) visitors.
You only need a few pieces of furniture, great bedding, and charming accents, and you can have some fun with it. Think of it even as an opportunity to deploy an aesthetic that differs from the rest of the house, to make it feel like a special destination.
With on-trend decor and furniture in a range of styles, The Home Depot makes it easy to overhaul this room on a budget. For an extra homey feel, channel a stately bed and breakfast with vintage-inspired pieces — here’s how.
Look for furniture that calls to mind the past — you can’t go wrong with rich wood tones.

William Hereford

William Hereford

Bright white walls and low-profile furnishings have enjoyed time in the spotlight recently, with minimalist décor superseding moodier, more intimate settings. But the tide is turning toward a richer palette, with layers of the past and present mingling together.
To cultivate a look that reads vintage but not old, lean into darker tones that add extra character and warmth to a space. Try wood furniture with a heritage vibe: a gracious bed with a carved headboard in a deep ebony finish, a chest of drawers with antique-like bronze hardware and a sturdy side table that could pass for being built by a grandparent. Think sophisticated bungalow or chic country cottage, without any of the ruffles.

Bellmore Ebony Queen Bed
homedepot.com
$699.00

Daytona Regal Walnut Rectangular End Table
homedepot.com
$167.16

Cambridge Brown 3-Drawer Dresser
homedepot.com
$409.45

Cooper Mixed Material Luggage Rack
homedepot.com
$91.60

Layer neutral pillows and blankets over crisp white sheets (the combination never fails).

William Hereford

The easiest way to make a bed feel like it’s from a five-star hotel is to outfit it with crisp, white percale sheets and a matching blanket. Instead of a duvet, opt for a quilt to add texture and heft. Layer on a cashmere blanket for a subtle color contrast, and choose a variety of throw pillows in the same palette.
In order to create a pillowscape that doesn’t overwhelm the bed, limit yourself to four colors or patterns and don’t go overboard with numbers. For example, on top of the standard pillows on a Queen-size bed, layer two larger square Euro-style pillows in a stripe print that mirror the texture of the quilt, and then pop in two accent pillows in a dusty rose. Finish the look, if you’d like to add more, with two one-offs: an extra-long, soft grey lumbar with a leather strap detail and a grey and white stripe.

300 Thread Count Wrinkle Resistant American Cotton Sateen 4-Piece Queen Sheet Set in White
homedepot.com
$39.98

Legends Paloma Cotton Textured Queen Quilt in White
homedepot.com
$429.00

Oversized Faux Cashmere Stone Plaid Acrylic Fireside Throw Blanket
homedepot.com
$27.99

Alternate Blocks Grey and White Geometric Hypoallergenic Polyester 18 in. x 18 in. Throw Pillow
homedepot.com
$30.69

Edinburgh Mid-Century Modern Gray Pillow
homedepot.com
$21.10

Add a lounge chair for wake-ups and wind-downs.

William Hereford

Boulevard Cafe Camel Leather-Like Metal Chair
homedepot.com
$136.92

A place to sit — that is not the bed! — is a must in a guest room. It offers an element of separation between sleeping and daily life, and provides a spot to relax (plus a separate seat keeps “outside clothes” off the bed).For a classic Americana look, choose a leather piece that complements the wood furniture and adds warmth to the room. Avoid chunky club chairs; while comfy, they can take up too much space and crowd the room.
Instead, look for a chair with a slimmer silhouette, like this option with a blackened metal frame and burnt orange cushions. Not only does the plump seat make for the perfect reading nook, but it’s an ideal place to drape a jacket or set your handbag.
Frame up art in a mix of sizes for a collected feel.

Hanging art is the quickest way to make a space feel homey and lived-in. For maximum impact, go for a gallery wall. If the idea of finding and organizing enough pieces for a whole wall may seem intimidating, never fear: the best part of a gallery wall is that it doesn’t have to be perfect. With multiple pieces in varying sizes, you don’t have to fret about perfectly centering every single frame. Choose a starting point, be it the center of the wall or one side, and build from there.

Antiqued Bronze Framed Acrylic Painting
homedepot.com
$89.00

“Simple Fern IV” Framed Giclee Print
homedepot.com
$126.36

“Divided Horizon I” by Jennifer Goldberger
homedepot.com
$48.99

“Aged Paper Vintage Feather Identification Print” by Daphne Polselli
homedepot.com
$32.99

To keep with the old-but-new aesthetic, seek out a variety of portraits and botanical prints that masquerade as if they were salvaged from an old library or estate sale. Use color cues from elsewhere in the room — the bedding, perhaps — to inspire a cohesive art palette, and keep things simple with matless frames.
Dot the space with vintage (or vintage-inspired!) accessories.

William Hereford

In a hotel, it’s the small details that make a room feel special — the custom soap dispenser, the hand-painted light pendant, smart-looking cabinet pulls — so don’t skimp when it comes to the finishing touches. Now is the time to hit the flea markets or dig into your grandma’s attic for fun and quirky additions, like a carved teak tray repurposed as a catchall for jewelry and coins, a ceramic vase filled with fresh-picked wildflowers, or a crate of thrift-store vinyls.

Parker Bluetooth Suitcase Record Player with 3-Speed Turntable
homedepot.com
$52.66

Wooden Record Crate
homedepot.com
$33.07

Brown Square Wood Trays
homedepot.com
$17.47

Oil Rubbed Bronze Counter Balance Desk Lamp
homedepot.com
$44.97

Round Quartz Metal Alarm Clock
homedepot.com
$13.05

If you’re not one for thrifting, or prefer new to old, The Home Depot has a surprisingly deep collection of vintage-inspired decor, like this cute mint green table clock, a bluetooth speaker disguised as a record player, or an industrial elbow desk lamp.
Prop styling by Olga Grigorenko. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

If there’s one element of flooring to consider an indispensable ally, it’s underlayment. A thin layer of material that runs between your visible flooring (hardwood, vinyl, tile, you name it) and the subfloor, it’s a hidden problem solver that can address several unexpected flooring issues. Whether you’re counting on it to create a sturdy, level surface for flooring, keep potential moisture damage at bay, reduce noise or all of the above, there’s an underlayment material out there suited specifically to your project, and it can be found at The Home Depot.

Underlayment is the barrier between flooring and subfloor

Underlayment is made from both “hard” and “soft” materials, which are used in different instances. “Hard” materials, like plywood and cement “backer” board, attach to the subfloor itself and are best for flooring types like tile. “Soft” materials, like foam, fiber and cork, work frequently with “floating” floor applications — including luxury vinyl, engineered hardwood and laminate — and aren’t attached to the subfloor directly.

Waterproof Underlayment for Vinyl, Laminate, Engineered Floors
Eco Cork Foam homedepot.com
$56.25

Underlayment with Sound and Moisture Barrier for Laminate & Engineered Flooring
QuietWalk homedepot.com
$47.03

HardieBacker Cement Backerboard
James Hardie homedepot.com
$11.48

Plywood Underlayment
The Home Depot homedepot.com
$6.99

The manufacturer will likely point you in the right direction as to what you need, so make sure to double check their recommendations. What’s more, many newer models of luxury vinyl and laminate floors come equipped with the underlayment already built-in, making it more DIY-friendly with no extra step necessary.

Underlayment makes things smooth and steady
Underlayment’s primary purpose is to create the smoothest, most supportive surface possible for visible flooring, and usually maxes out at about ¼” to ½” in thickness. This point is particularly important in situations where the subfloor isn’t exactly flat, like in older homes or fixer-uppers, and will ensure the durability and comfort of flooring as it inevitably responds to shifts over time.

It keeps things dry as a bone

No one wants mildew and mold building up beneath a floor’s surface, and without underlayment, it’s a major risk in many rooms of the home, especially basements. In any area where humidity tends to run high, a moisture-resistant underlayment — like pre-treated backerboard — will help keep water vapor from potentially damaging your freshly laid engineered hardwood or laminate, which can cause it to warp and buckle.

It helps minimize noise
If noise travels further in your house than you’d like, underlayment with noise-reduction properties should be on your radar. There are several rating systems that test flooring acoustics for evidence on how they stand up against foot fall, blaring TVs and everything in between. But when it comes to underlayment, the systems test known as the Delta IIC is your best resource, which specifically helps determine how effective different types of underlayment are when it comes to canceling out noise.
The higher the Delta IIC score, the greater the degree of noise cancellation (measured in decibels) that the sound-reduction underlayment has added. Underlayment made from felt, rubber or recycled fibers are often used to great effect here, and are helpful in any sort of high-traffic area, not just in an at-home recording studio. Bonus: underlayment that absorbs sound can often be good at trapping heat, helping floors retain warmth for longer when temperatures take a downward turn.

Consider eco-friendly cork

200 sq. ft. 1/4 in. Cork Underlayment Roll
QEP homedepot.com
$128.84

It might run on the pricier side, but cork is an eco-friendly, naturally bug repellant, hypoallergenic and sound-absorbing underlayment option for homeowners committed to a greener lifestyle. Cork is also an excellent energy conductor, so it’s a good option if you have radiant heat.
Just don’t use it in any area that’s prone to dampness: even with a moisture barrier, cork’s porous nature means it won’t perform as well under those conditions. More

What’s under your feet is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Tile has one of the biggest personalities of the flooring world—and loves to be the center of attention. It always draws plenty of “oohs!” and “ahhs!” from visitors, whether it’s featured in a splashy entryway or a serene bathroom.
It’s time, though, that these showpieces start sharing the spotlight—and credit!—with their sidekick: grout. The Home Depot is a veritable one-stop shop for tilework, whether you plan to hire a professional or DIY a tile floor (or even a backsplash or shower). Knowing a thing or two about grouting will help you either way.

The project dictates grout type
Typically sold in just-add-water powder form or pre-mixed, grout is a mixture of cement, sand, and water that fills in the grooves between each tile. It comes in a variety of hues and can significantly change the look of tile, whether by adding a deeper level of contrast (think white subway tile, black grout) or complementing it for a more uniform look (white subway tile, white grout).

Sanded grout is used when joints—the space between the tiles—are greater than 1/8” and is the go-to for most flooring projects due to the fact it’s more resistant to cracking. Unsanded grout, on the other hand, is a thinner consistency, and better suited for vertical tile-work, like a back splash. (An exception to the rule is when you’re working with a softer material like marble, which needs unsanded grout due to its delicate nature.)

Color and spacing go hand in hand

1/8 in. Original Job-Tough Tombstone-Style Tile Spacers (250 pack)
QEP homedepot.com
$2.97

When it comes to selecting a color, consider that grout will likely darken overtime thanks to dirt brought in from foot traffic. And there’s also the grout-to-tile ratio to be aware of. With smaller tiles, the grout lines will be more prominent because the tiles themselves take up less space. The two will work more in tandem than with larger tiles, where the grout will take more of a backseat.

1/8” is the standard spacing for a flooring grout line, but will depend on the type of tile, its size, and the pattern being created. (In general, you’re never going to dip below 1/8” for flooring, but could have a grout line that’s 1/4” or 1/2”.) Using spacers—like those shown below—will ensure an even grout-line throughout the project, so unless you really trust yourself, don’t attempt to freestyle.

The right tools make things easier
If you plan to DIY, thinking about tile and grout as two parts of an aesthetic whole can make the installation process easier. “When you’re laying tile, keep a bristle brush with you and a bucket of water,” counsels general contractor Mark Clements, who uses the brush to remove any excess mortar when installing the tiles prior to the grouting stage. “That will save you a day when you get ready to grout.”

Polyblend #381 Bright White 10 lb. Non-Sanded Grout
Custom Building Products homedepot.com
$12.98

Single-Paddle Mixer
RIDGID homedepot.com
$139.00

5 Gal. Homer Bucket
The Home Depot homedepot.com
$3.48

Grout and Tile Cleaning Brush
QEP homedepot.com
$2.97

Unless purchased pre-mixed, it’s important to thoroughly mix your grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the most colorfast and consistent result possible. After all, no one is on the hunt for tie-dye grout. After mixing, grout rests for a while to allow the water to fully penetrate the dry ingredients, a process known as “slaking.”

Working quickly is key
Then, the spreading process begins. Working in a manageably small-sized section (think 3’ x 3’ at most) and using a special, trowel-like tool known as a “grout float,” spread the grout as evenly as possible over the empty spaces between the tiles at a 90-degree angle, filling in the joints while wiping away excess grout. The grout will begin to harden after a few minutes—success is near!—but the next step is one that often hangs up DIYers.

The process of grouting (from top left, clockwise) is quick work. Prepping the grout, applying it, and washing it all need to be done swiftly.

Using a “grout sponge” (essentially, a heavy-duty kitchen sponge), wipe the tiles in a circular motion, paying extra attention not to disrupt the edges of the grout line. Being careful is the name of the game here: you can end up spreading wet grout around on the tile and making messy, excess work. Fortunately, general contractor Joe Truini has a trick.
“The grout sponge rapidly becomes saturated with grout—you can only wipe the sponge across so much and it’s full, and then you’re just moving it around,” he says. “So, the formula for wiping down grout is count, ‘One, two—flip the sponge—three, ring it out.’” This process of wiping and rinsing may need to be repeated several times, especially if you are using dark-colored grout that is green or black.

4 in. x 9 in. Economy Grout Flooring Float
ANVIL homedepot.com
$6.98

7-1/2 in. x 5-1/2 in. Extra Large Grouting, Cleaning and Washing Sponge (3-Pack)
QEP homedepot.com
$3.97

32 oz. 511 Impregnator Penetrating Sealer
Miracle Sealants homedepot.com
$29.27

Grout Haze Remover
The Tile Doctor homedepot.com
$12.95

Once you’ve “one, two, flipped” with success and the grout has dried (about 24 hours), the tiles will likely be left with a film called “grout haze” on them. This can be cleaned with several different types of specialty products, but wiping with a damp towel, then buffing with a dry one, typically works just as well.

Don’t forget to seal
And as you bask in the glow of the perfectly matched tile-and-grout pairing that now make up your new floor (or shower, or backsplash), be sure to take the time to seal the grout, which is porous and needs extra protection from the elements—particularly in moisture-heavy areas like bathrooms. Truini favors a quarter inch or narrower artist’s brush, and recommends using two coats the first time and resealing your grout once a year.
The relationship between grout and tile is one of give and take—choosing complementary colors, styles, and patterns—as well as one of mutual respect, which ensures that the grout is given as much attention as the tile during both installation and in the years to come. And if that happens? You’ve got yourself the beginning of a beautiful flooring friendship. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Behind every successful home flooring effort, there’s a strong support system in place that ensures all new projects have a proper foundation. It can be tempting to dive right in when you’ve gone head-over-heels for the eco-friendly bamboo of your dreams or have the tile pattern for your kitchen just right. (Trust us, we know.)
But the critical importance of making sure your new floor has the support it deserves will guarantee you’ll be walking on something durable and beautiful for years to come. Thankfully, The Home Depot is a one-stop shop for flooring prep.

What’s under there, anyway?

“People always know what kind of flooring they want to put down, but what they really need to ask themselves is, ‘What’s on the floor now?’” says general contractor Joe Truini, who is also the host of “Simple Solutions” on Today’s Homeowner TV. Meaning: If your foyer has sheet vinyl flooring and you want to put tile, you first need to figure out what’s under the vinyl.
When you remove flooring that’s already in place and examine the condition of what’s underneath, you’ll find some circumstances simpler to tackle than others. “In the easiest situation, there’s carpeting that has plywood underneath,” Truini explains. “You rip up the carpeting, then in a couple of hours the room’s down to bare plywood and you have a clean slate to support whatever it is you want to put down.”
And keep in mind the new flooring you’ve selected. For example, with a floating laminate floor, the condition of the subfloor won’t really matter. But, there are important subfloor rules for materials like porcelain and stone tile, which isn’t flexible and can crack with any movement or deflection.

First things first: underlayment
One of the bedrock elements when installing a new floor is underlayment, which provides a cushion for the flooring that prevents squeaks and creaks when walking (particularly important if the floor is over, say, a living room). “The underlayment also evens out any little imperfections in the subfloor, so if the plywood has a little bit of an imperfection in the seam, you won’t see that in the floor,” says Truini.

Prep Like a Pro

LevelQuik RS 50 lbs. Self-Leveling Underlayment
homedepot.com
$27.87

Standard Polyethylene Foam 2-in-1 Underlayment
homedepot.com
$27.98

RedGard Waterproofing, 1 gal
homedepot.com
$47.87

James Hardie HardieBacker Waterproof Cement Backer Board
homedepot.com
$19.98

Self-leveling underlayment, for example, is a more recent innovation that does exactly what its name describes: provides a floor protection barrier that seeks its own level within minutes of being rolled out. It also dries within hours, saving a great deal of time when laying new carpet, vinyl planks, or tile. It can even eliminate installation problems like bond failure, which is typically caused by moisture found in traditional underlayment. (More about underlayment can be found “under” letter U!)When creating a base for any new floor, but particularly one in rooms that will be prone to splashing or wet rain boots, it pays to take waterproofing precautions. Look for waterproofing products like a sealant, whether roll-on or aerosol sprayed, to prevent seepage or cracks in tile and stone floor, or even opt for applying a waterproof backer board to the subfloor to create moisture barrier. (This comes in handy for bathroom renovations.)

Don’t forget the big picture
In addition to these hands-on, nitty gritty steps, preparing for a new floor requires a good bit of big picture thinking. Ensuring that the new floor won’t be too tall (or short) for existing external doorways is a big concern, as is double checking that major appliances and electronics are all turned off (and, potentially, removed) during the flooring switch up.

“Homeowners need to think about their role in the flooring job…Think about what ‘tools’ you can best bring to the table.”

And, generally speaking, know your strengths and weaknesses with the task at hand, advises general contractor Mark Clement. “Homeowners need to think about their role in the flooring job. Are you the designer? Are you the color expert? Are you the texture person? Or are you the nuts-and-bolts installer? Think about what ‘tools’ you can best bring to the table.” In other words: be honest with yourself if this is best left to a professional instead of a DIY job. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

If you’ve ever gotten so into a living room dance party that you’ve slid across the floor on a rug, you know just how, uh, risky it can be to have nothing securing it. Fortunately, non-slip rug pads are on the scene to ensure the ground beneath your feet stays cushioned — and firmly anchored in place — while you’re trying out the latest moves.
But you don’t need to be cutting a rug, figuratively, for them to matter. Non-slip rug pads are a critical part of building the most comfortable space possible and also serve as a layer for safety and protection. They prevent rugs from having curling edges, shifting while vacuuming, or rocketing across the floor when the dog comes barreling in. The Home Depot carries them in a variety of materials, thicknesses, and construction styles, each tailored to specific types of rugs that you might have.

The room dictates the rug pad

All-Surface Thin Profile 4 ft. x 6 ft. Fiber and Rubber Backed Non-Slip Rug Pad
American Slide-Stop homedepot.com
$24.24

Perhaps the most important role rug pads play is ensuring that rugs stay completely tethered to one spot. This is particularly important in high-traffic areas, where “grip” non-slip rug pads, like those made out of extra-durable rubber, are ideal. Grip rug pads are also a solid choice in any indoor-outdoor setting, like a screened-in porch or sunroom, because they repel moisture, and are also helpful for when you want a rug to have a lower profile (think: anywhere a rug might prevent a door from opening).

Cushion non-slip rug pads (those that combine cushioning and gripping action) do exactly what they promise, adding an extra level of plush to your rug. These rug pads are best served in bedrooms, entertainment rooms, or anywhere people might end up sitting on the floor (like a play area). They typically have a felt top that provides support for the rug itself — and your body as you tackle an online yoga class — and a gripping rubber bottom to grab onto the floor. (If you can’t tell which side is which, the manufacturer’s instructions will usually clear it up.)

Non-Slip Comfort Grip 8 ft. x 10 ft. Rug Pad
nuLOOM homedepot.com
$25.19

In all cases, non-slip rug pads don’t just soften the blow of day-to-day trampling on your floors. They help a rug keep its shape more efficiently by reducing movement-induced friction. Non-slip rug pads can be used on any surface — tile, laminate, carpet, you name it — but if the flooring is slick, like hardwood, make sure your rug pad has sufficient gripping power by double-checking that it’s a “cushion-grip” pad and not simply a “cushion” pad.

Rug pads can lead a long and happy life (as long as your rug itself, if not longer) with a little bit of maintenance. According to Carolyn Forte, Good Housekeeping’s Home Appliances & Cleaning Products Director, make sure to vacuum the pad at least twice a year, and, in addition to the rug, don’t forget to check for and treat any stains on the rug pad if an accident occurs.

Size matters, but you can customize
Rug pads, particularly those made for area rugs, are often sold in standard sizes, but are infinitely simple to customize at home if your desired thickness and grip style doesn’t come ready-made.

Measure the rug itself, then subtract two inches from each side: that’s an ideal size for your rug pad. (You definitely don’t want a plain-looking rug pad poking out the side of your antique rug!) Trim the pad to fit using standard, sharp scissors, decide where exactly in the room the rug-and-pad combination will go and unfurl the pad with the rubber-side down (if felt and rubber). Just like that, you have a new, built-in support network for your rug that will keep your floors in tip-top shape — and trip-and-fall disasters at bay. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Flooring trends may come and go, but hardwood is the classic, last-for-generations material desired by the largest segment of US homebuyers. What many first-time installers don’t realize, though, is that there is a flow-chart of choices to make when selecting an ideal hardwood. Your decisions can shape not only the installation process, but how to care for your floor for years to come.
Not to worry, though: The Home Depot has products, resources, and installation help to assist along the way—and here’s a step-by-step guide of what to look for when making decisions.

Hardwood vs. Engineered Hardwood

American Originals Natural Red Oak 3/4in. T x 2-1/4 in. W x Varying L Solid Hardwood Flooring (20 sq.ft./case)
Bruce homedepot.com
$85.79

The initial decision is a major one: selecting either solid hardwood (a dense plank of timber) or engineered hardwood, which has a thin layer of visible hardwood veneer over several layers of (not visible) plywood.

Engineered wood can often be simply glued straight down to the substrate or installed using an easy “click-and-lock” technology, whereas solid hardwood requires a plywood underlayment, nailing, and plenty of elbow grease. Despite the breezy installation process, engineered hardwood often can’t be sanded and refinished in case repairs are needed down the road—a risk many aren’t willing to take.
“The warmth of solid hardwood floors is a nice reason to go for it,” interior designer Laura Umansky says, even though it is generally pricier. “They’re also a good option because they can be re-sanded and maintained pretty easily.” Plus, due to its long lifetime, hardwood flooring can often positively affect the value of a house if a homeowner is looking to sell.

Choose a strong finish
If you’ve decided to head in the solid hardwood direction, your next few choices will bemore aesthetic ones: type of hard wood, prefinished or unfinished boards, and the style of finish. (As you might’ve guessed, due to the nature of its construction, engineered hardwood is pretty much always prefinished.)
The fun choices that will dictate look—like selecting the type of wood, grain, and plank width for your room—are mostly a matter of personal taste. Oak, hickory, walnut, and ash, along with all the variants therein, are frequent choices for interior hardwood due to their attractiveness and durability (to learn more about the wood hardness and the Janka Scale, head to letter J!), while plank width can range from the more traditional 2-to-3” boards to ultra-wide 7”, which can show off the intricacies of the wood grain.

With prefinished boards, you’ll be able to choose the exact shade, grain, and finish of your hardwood floors from the get-go. This allows for a more concrete vision of what the flooring will look like when fully laid out (with no unwanted surprises). Unfinished boards—which are installed first and stained later—make for a more customized look, but are something of a gamble if the stain doesn’t turn out quite the way you envisioned it.
“I think hardwood is timeless,” says general contractor Jessica Pleasants. “And the finishing product you use—whether it’s a penetrating oil, polyurethane sealant on top, or a prefinished material—will greatly affect the overall final look of your floors.”
There’s a whole range of finishing products for hardwood floors, and to select which one is best for you, it’s important to (once again!) think about the space you’re tackling and its day-to-day uses.
Polyurethane finishes, whether water-based or oil-based, are durable and long-lasting, making them strong contenders for high-traffic areas.
Penetrating oils, on the other hand, has a more matte look, which works to accentuate the grain of the wood but are much less resilient. They are often paired with wood stains, and sometimes come as a combination oil and stain.

Pro Finisher 5 gal. Clear Gloss 350 VOC Oil-Based Interior Polyurethane for Floors
Rust-Oleum Parks homedepot.com
$134.00

1 gal. Clear Satin Water-Based Floor Polyurethane (2-Pack)
Varathane homedepot.com
$93.96

1 qt. Dark Walnut Classic Wood Interior Stain
Varathane homedepot.com
$6.98

1-gal. Woodacres Oak Semi-Transparent Oil-Based Wood Finish Penetrating Interior Stain
Olympic homedepot.com
$31.97

It can be enough to make your head swim—semi-gloss versus satin gloss; the level of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) you’re comfortable with; estimating resistance to scratches and scuffs (whew!)—but know this: like Goldilocks, there’s a finish out there that’s just right for your room.

Installation is no joke
Consider your hardwood flooring a living, breathing part of your home and you’ll be on your way to success.
Solid hardwood boards should be allowed to sit in the room where they will be installed for upwards of a week prior to nailing them down. This will allow the hardwood to expand (or contract) in response to the exact temperature levels and moisture point in the room. Otherwise, you might be left with gaps between boards or buckling if they haven’t properly acclimated. (Engineered wood, on the other hand, only requires about 24 hours to get adjusted to its new surroundings.)
The next step (and, no, you’re not nailing yet!), is to lay out or “rack” the boards in the order you’d like to see them on the floor, running parallel to the longest wall in the room. Think of this part like a giant jigsaw puzzle, mixing and matching boards from various bundles side-by-side to ensure there aren’t homogenous patches throughout the space.
Before installing, “rack” the floor boards, or lay them out, in the order you’d like to see them on the floor.
You’ll also want to leave at least a half-inch of space around the perimeter of the room—called an “expansion gap”—to account for board expansion. These gaps will eventually be covered by baseboards or moulding. (More on that under letter M for Molding!)

Yes, you have to make nail choices
Hardwood floors are held in place with nails—also known as “cleats”—or alternatively staples, and most often rely on a pneumatic floor nailer to help lock boards in place. Nails should be just long enough to sink into the subflooring, but no longer, making exact measurements (and following the manufacturer’s instructions) key for installing a solid, sturdy floor.

Visible nails in new hardwood floors are less prominent than they used to be. The rise of tongue-in-groove construction hides nails through a method called “blind-nailing,” where the groove of each subsequent plank hides them in the tongue of the plank before it, and so on. “Face-nailing”—hammering a nail into a pilot hole—is used closer to walls, where a nailer often doesn’t fit.
For those who are interested in nails that are more exposed and have a vintage, oo la la factor? There are a growing number of decorative flooring nail options, like square heads, antique versions, brass, and everything in between. Just make sure you don’t sacrifice form over function for these sharp little beauties.

The finishing touches matter

18-Volt ONE+ Cordless Orbital Jig Saw (Tool-Only)
RYOBI homedepot.com
$69.00

The grand finale of installing hardwood will often include trimming (likely using a jigsaw) the last row of boards to fit, and then face-nailing them. If your flooring is skirting any sort of obstacle—like a fireplace or kitchen island—the wood will also have to be custom cut in a similar fashion. And, if you are DIYing, always protect your physical health during the process by clearing out sawdust and wearing kneepads during an installation.
While the material is pricier, solid hardwood is a no-brainer for those looking to invest in their home for decades to come.
“For my money, a prefinished hardwood floor not only delivers the best value, but it’s probably the most accessible to install from a tools standpoint,” says general contractor Mark Clement, who points out that even the slightest slip-up on installation procedures with engineered “click-and-lock” hardwood can lead to a cancellation of the manufacturer’s warranty.
“With prefinished—or even unfinished—solid hardwood, there is a certain physicality to it that the [engineered] flooring doesn’t have. And once you get everything in place during installation, you’re off to the races.” More