Home Ideas

These decorative tiles pack a big punch. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

If there’s one element of flooring to consider an indispensable ally, it’s underlayment. A thin layer of material that runs between your visible flooring (hardwood, vinyl, tile, you name it) and the subfloor, it’s a hidden problem solver that can address several unexpected flooring issues. Whether you’re counting on it to create a sturdy, level surface for flooring, keep potential moisture damage at bay, reduce noise or all of the above, there’s an underlayment material out there suited specifically to your project, and it can be found at The Home Depot.

Underlayment is the barrier between flooring and subfloor

Underlayment is made from both “hard” and “soft” materials, which are used in different instances. “Hard” materials, like plywood and cement “backer” board, attach to the subfloor itself and are best for flooring types like tile. “Soft” materials, like foam, fiber and cork, work frequently with “floating” floor applications — including luxury vinyl, engineered hardwood and laminate — and aren’t attached to the subfloor directly.

Waterproof Underlayment for Vinyl, Laminate, Engineered Floors
Eco Cork Foam homedepot.com
$56.25

Underlayment with Sound and Moisture Barrier for Laminate & Engineered Flooring
QuietWalk homedepot.com
$47.03

HardieBacker Cement Backerboard
James Hardie homedepot.com
$11.48

Plywood Underlayment
The Home Depot homedepot.com
$6.99

The manufacturer will likely point you in the right direction as to what you need, so make sure to double check their recommendations. What’s more, many newer models of luxury vinyl and laminate floors come equipped with the underlayment already built-in, making it more DIY-friendly with no extra step necessary.

Underlayment makes things smooth and steady
Underlayment’s primary purpose is to create the smoothest, most supportive surface possible for visible flooring, and usually maxes out at about ¼” to ½” in thickness. This point is particularly important in situations where the subfloor isn’t exactly flat, like in older homes or fixer-uppers, and will ensure the durability and comfort of flooring as it inevitably responds to shifts over time.

It keeps things dry as a bone

No one wants mildew and mold building up beneath a floor’s surface, and without underlayment, it’s a major risk in many rooms of the home, especially basements. In any area where humidity tends to run high, a moisture-resistant underlayment — like pre-treated backerboard — will help keep water vapor from potentially damaging your freshly laid engineered hardwood or laminate, which can cause it to warp and buckle.

It helps minimize noise
If noise travels further in your house than you’d like, underlayment with noise-reduction properties should be on your radar. There are several rating systems that test flooring acoustics for evidence on how they stand up against foot fall, blaring TVs and everything in between. But when it comes to underlayment, the systems test known as the Delta IIC is your best resource, which specifically helps determine how effective different types of underlayment are when it comes to canceling out noise.
The higher the Delta IIC score, the greater the degree of noise cancellation (measured in decibels) that the sound-reduction underlayment has added. Underlayment made from felt, rubber or recycled fibers are often used to great effect here, and are helpful in any sort of high-traffic area, not just in an at-home recording studio. Bonus: underlayment that absorbs sound can often be good at trapping heat, helping floors retain warmth for longer when temperatures take a downward turn.

Consider eco-friendly cork

200 sq. ft. 1/4 in. Cork Underlayment Roll
QEP homedepot.com
$128.84

It might run on the pricier side, but cork is an eco-friendly, naturally bug repellant, hypoallergenic and sound-absorbing underlayment option for homeowners committed to a greener lifestyle. Cork is also an excellent energy conductor, so it’s a good option if you have radiant heat.
Just don’t use it in any area that’s prone to dampness: even with a moisture barrier, cork’s porous nature means it won’t perform as well under those conditions. More

What’s under your feet is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Tile has one of the biggest personalities of the flooring world—and loves to be the center of attention. It always draws plenty of “oohs!” and “ahhs!” from visitors, whether it’s featured in a splashy entryway or a serene bathroom.
It’s time, though, that these showpieces start sharing the spotlight—and credit!—with their sidekick: grout. The Home Depot is a veritable one-stop shop for tilework, whether you plan to hire a professional or DIY a tile floor (or even a backsplash or shower). Knowing a thing or two about grouting will help you either way.

The project dictates grout type
Typically sold in just-add-water powder form or pre-mixed, grout is a mixture of cement, sand, and water that fills in the grooves between each tile. It comes in a variety of hues and can significantly change the look of tile, whether by adding a deeper level of contrast (think white subway tile, black grout) or complementing it for a more uniform look (white subway tile, white grout).

Sanded grout is used when joints—the space between the tiles—are greater than 1/8” and is the go-to for most flooring projects due to the fact it’s more resistant to cracking. Unsanded grout, on the other hand, is a thinner consistency, and better suited for vertical tile-work, like a back splash. (An exception to the rule is when you’re working with a softer material like marble, which needs unsanded grout due to its delicate nature.)

Color and spacing go hand in hand

1/8 in. Original Job-Tough Tombstone-Style Tile Spacers (250 pack)
QEP homedepot.com
$2.97

When it comes to selecting a color, consider that grout will likely darken overtime thanks to dirt brought in from foot traffic. And there’s also the grout-to-tile ratio to be aware of. With smaller tiles, the grout lines will be more prominent because the tiles themselves take up less space. The two will work more in tandem than with larger tiles, where the grout will take more of a backseat.

1/8” is the standard spacing for a flooring grout line, but will depend on the type of tile, its size, and the pattern being created. (In general, you’re never going to dip below 1/8” for flooring, but could have a grout line that’s 1/4” or 1/2”.) Using spacers—like those shown below—will ensure an even grout-line throughout the project, so unless you really trust yourself, don’t attempt to freestyle.

The right tools make things easier
If you plan to DIY, thinking about tile and grout as two parts of an aesthetic whole can make the installation process easier. “When you’re laying tile, keep a bristle brush with you and a bucket of water,” counsels general contractor Mark Clements, who uses the brush to remove any excess mortar when installing the tiles prior to the grouting stage. “That will save you a day when you get ready to grout.”

Polyblend #381 Bright White 10 lb. Non-Sanded Grout
Custom Building Products homedepot.com
$12.98

Single-Paddle Mixer
RIDGID homedepot.com
$139.00

5 Gal. Homer Bucket
The Home Depot homedepot.com
$3.48

Grout and Tile Cleaning Brush
QEP homedepot.com
$2.97

Unless purchased pre-mixed, it’s important to thoroughly mix your grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the most colorfast and consistent result possible. After all, no one is on the hunt for tie-dye grout. After mixing, grout rests for a while to allow the water to fully penetrate the dry ingredients, a process known as “slaking.”

Working quickly is key
Then, the spreading process begins. Working in a manageably small-sized section (think 3’ x 3’ at most) and using a special, trowel-like tool known as a “grout float,” spread the grout as evenly as possible over the empty spaces between the tiles at a 90-degree angle, filling in the joints while wiping away excess grout. The grout will begin to harden after a few minutes—success is near!—but the next step is one that often hangs up DIYers.

The process of grouting (from top left, clockwise) is quick work. Prepping the grout, applying it, and washing it all need to be done swiftly.

Using a “grout sponge” (essentially, a heavy-duty kitchen sponge), wipe the tiles in a circular motion, paying extra attention not to disrupt the edges of the grout line. Being careful is the name of the game here: you can end up spreading wet grout around on the tile and making messy, excess work. Fortunately, general contractor Joe Truini has a trick.
“The grout sponge rapidly becomes saturated with grout—you can only wipe the sponge across so much and it’s full, and then you’re just moving it around,” he says. “So, the formula for wiping down grout is count, ‘One, two—flip the sponge—three, ring it out.’” This process of wiping and rinsing may need to be repeated several times, especially if you are using dark-colored grout that is green or black.

4 in. x 9 in. Economy Grout Flooring Float
ANVIL homedepot.com
$6.98

7-1/2 in. x 5-1/2 in. Extra Large Grouting, Cleaning and Washing Sponge (3-Pack)
QEP homedepot.com
$3.97

32 oz. 511 Impregnator Penetrating Sealer
Miracle Sealants homedepot.com
$29.27

Grout Haze Remover
The Tile Doctor homedepot.com
$12.95

Once you’ve “one, two, flipped” with success and the grout has dried (about 24 hours), the tiles will likely be left with a film called “grout haze” on them. This can be cleaned with several different types of specialty products, but wiping with a damp towel, then buffing with a dry one, typically works just as well.

Don’t forget to seal
And as you bask in the glow of the perfectly matched tile-and-grout pairing that now make up your new floor (or shower, or backsplash), be sure to take the time to seal the grout, which is porous and needs extra protection from the elements—particularly in moisture-heavy areas like bathrooms. Truini favors a quarter inch or narrower artist’s brush, and recommends using two coats the first time and resealing your grout once a year.
The relationship between grout and tile is one of give and take—choosing complementary colors, styles, and patterns—as well as one of mutual respect, which ensures that the grout is given as much attention as the tile during both installation and in the years to come. And if that happens? You’ve got yourself the beginning of a beautiful flooring friendship. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Behind every successful home flooring effort, there’s a strong support system in place that ensures all new projects have a proper foundation. It can be tempting to dive right in when you’ve gone head-over-heels for the eco-friendly bamboo of your dreams or have the tile pattern for your kitchen just right. (Trust us, we know.)
But the critical importance of making sure your new floor has the support it deserves will guarantee you’ll be walking on something durable and beautiful for years to come. Thankfully, The Home Depot is a one-stop shop for flooring prep.

What’s under there, anyway?

“People always know what kind of flooring they want to put down, but what they really need to ask themselves is, ‘What’s on the floor now?’” says general contractor Joe Truini, who is also the host of “Simple Solutions” on Today’s Homeowner TV. Meaning: If your foyer has sheet vinyl flooring and you want to put tile, you first need to figure out what’s under the vinyl.
When you remove flooring that’s already in place and examine the condition of what’s underneath, you’ll find some circumstances simpler to tackle than others. “In the easiest situation, there’s carpeting that has plywood underneath,” Truini explains. “You rip up the carpeting, then in a couple of hours the room’s down to bare plywood and you have a clean slate to support whatever it is you want to put down.”
And keep in mind the new flooring you’ve selected. For example, with a floating laminate floor, the condition of the subfloor won’t really matter. But, there are important subfloor rules for materials like porcelain and stone tile, which isn’t flexible and can crack with any movement or deflection.

First things first: underlayment
One of the bedrock elements when installing a new floor is underlayment, which provides a cushion for the flooring that prevents squeaks and creaks when walking (particularly important if the floor is over, say, a living room). “The underlayment also evens out any little imperfections in the subfloor, so if the plywood has a little bit of an imperfection in the seam, you won’t see that in the floor,” says Truini.

Prep Like a Pro

LevelQuik RS 50 lbs. Self-Leveling Underlayment
homedepot.com
$27.87

Standard Polyethylene Foam 2-in-1 Underlayment
homedepot.com
$27.98

RedGard Waterproofing, 1 gal
homedepot.com
$47.87

James Hardie HardieBacker Waterproof Cement Backer Board
homedepot.com
$19.98

Self-leveling underlayment, for example, is a more recent innovation that does exactly what its name describes: provides a floor protection barrier that seeks its own level within minutes of being rolled out. It also dries within hours, saving a great deal of time when laying new carpet, vinyl planks, or tile. It can even eliminate installation problems like bond failure, which is typically caused by moisture found in traditional underlayment. (More about underlayment can be found “under” letter U!)When creating a base for any new floor, but particularly one in rooms that will be prone to splashing or wet rain boots, it pays to take waterproofing precautions. Look for waterproofing products like a sealant, whether roll-on or aerosol sprayed, to prevent seepage or cracks in tile and stone floor, or even opt for applying a waterproof backer board to the subfloor to create moisture barrier. (This comes in handy for bathroom renovations.)

Don’t forget the big picture
In addition to these hands-on, nitty gritty steps, preparing for a new floor requires a good bit of big picture thinking. Ensuring that the new floor won’t be too tall (or short) for existing external doorways is a big concern, as is double checking that major appliances and electronics are all turned off (and, potentially, removed) during the flooring switch up.

“Homeowners need to think about their role in the flooring job…Think about what ‘tools’ you can best bring to the table.”

And, generally speaking, know your strengths and weaknesses with the task at hand, advises general contractor Mark Clement. “Homeowners need to think about their role in the flooring job. Are you the designer? Are you the color expert? Are you the texture person? Or are you the nuts-and-bolts installer? Think about what ‘tools’ you can best bring to the table.” In other words: be honest with yourself if this is best left to a professional instead of a DIY job. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

If you’ve ever gotten so into a living room dance party that you’ve slid across the floor on a rug, you know just how, uh, risky it can be to have nothing securing it. Fortunately, non-slip rug pads are on the scene to ensure the ground beneath your feet stays cushioned — and firmly anchored in place — while you’re trying out the latest moves.
But you don’t need to be cutting a rug, figuratively, for them to matter. Non-slip rug pads are a critical part of building the most comfortable space possible and also serve as a layer for safety and protection. They prevent rugs from having curling edges, shifting while vacuuming, or rocketing across the floor when the dog comes barreling in. The Home Depot carries them in a variety of materials, thicknesses, and construction styles, each tailored to specific types of rugs that you might have.

The room dictates the rug pad

All-Surface Thin Profile 4 ft. x 6 ft. Fiber and Rubber Backed Non-Slip Rug Pad
American Slide-Stop homedepot.com
$24.24

Perhaps the most important role rug pads play is ensuring that rugs stay completely tethered to one spot. This is particularly important in high-traffic areas, where “grip” non-slip rug pads, like those made out of extra-durable rubber, are ideal. Grip rug pads are also a solid choice in any indoor-outdoor setting, like a screened-in porch or sunroom, because they repel moisture, and are also helpful for when you want a rug to have a lower profile (think: anywhere a rug might prevent a door from opening).

Cushion non-slip rug pads (those that combine cushioning and gripping action) do exactly what they promise, adding an extra level of plush to your rug. These rug pads are best served in bedrooms, entertainment rooms, or anywhere people might end up sitting on the floor (like a play area). They typically have a felt top that provides support for the rug itself — and your body as you tackle an online yoga class — and a gripping rubber bottom to grab onto the floor. (If you can’t tell which side is which, the manufacturer’s instructions will usually clear it up.)

Non-Slip Comfort Grip 8 ft. x 10 ft. Rug Pad
nuLOOM homedepot.com
$25.19

In all cases, non-slip rug pads don’t just soften the blow of day-to-day trampling on your floors. They help a rug keep its shape more efficiently by reducing movement-induced friction. Non-slip rug pads can be used on any surface — tile, laminate, carpet, you name it — but if the flooring is slick, like hardwood, make sure your rug pad has sufficient gripping power by double-checking that it’s a “cushion-grip” pad and not simply a “cushion” pad.

Rug pads can lead a long and happy life (as long as your rug itself, if not longer) with a little bit of maintenance. According to Carolyn Forte, Good Housekeeping’s Home Appliances & Cleaning Products Director, make sure to vacuum the pad at least twice a year, and, in addition to the rug, don’t forget to check for and treat any stains on the rug pad if an accident occurs.

Size matters, but you can customize
Rug pads, particularly those made for area rugs, are often sold in standard sizes, but are infinitely simple to customize at home if your desired thickness and grip style doesn’t come ready-made.

Measure the rug itself, then subtract two inches from each side: that’s an ideal size for your rug pad. (You definitely don’t want a plain-looking rug pad poking out the side of your antique rug!) Trim the pad to fit using standard, sharp scissors, decide where exactly in the room the rug-and-pad combination will go and unfurl the pad with the rubber-side down (if felt and rubber). Just like that, you have a new, built-in support network for your rug that will keep your floors in tip-top shape — and trip-and-fall disasters at bay. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Flooring trends may come and go, but hardwood is the classic, last-for-generations material desired by the largest segment of US homebuyers. What many first-time installers don’t realize, though, is that there is a flow-chart of choices to make when selecting an ideal hardwood. Your decisions can shape not only the installation process, but how to care for your floor for years to come.
Not to worry, though: The Home Depot has products, resources, and installation help to assist along the way—and here’s a step-by-step guide of what to look for when making decisions.

Hardwood vs. Engineered Hardwood

American Originals Natural Red Oak 3/4in. T x 2-1/4 in. W x Varying L Solid Hardwood Flooring (20 sq.ft./case)
Bruce homedepot.com
$85.79

The initial decision is a major one: selecting either solid hardwood (a dense plank of timber) or engineered hardwood, which has a thin layer of visible hardwood veneer over several layers of (not visible) plywood.

Engineered wood can often be simply glued straight down to the substrate or installed using an easy “click-and-lock” technology, whereas solid hardwood requires a plywood underlayment, nailing, and plenty of elbow grease. Despite the breezy installation process, engineered hardwood often can’t be sanded and refinished in case repairs are needed down the road—a risk many aren’t willing to take.
“The warmth of solid hardwood floors is a nice reason to go for it,” interior designer Laura Umansky says, even though it is generally pricier. “They’re also a good option because they can be re-sanded and maintained pretty easily.” Plus, due to its long lifetime, hardwood flooring can often positively affect the value of a house if a homeowner is looking to sell.

Choose a strong finish
If you’ve decided to head in the solid hardwood direction, your next few choices will bemore aesthetic ones: type of hard wood, prefinished or unfinished boards, and the style of finish. (As you might’ve guessed, due to the nature of its construction, engineered hardwood is pretty much always prefinished.)
The fun choices that will dictate look—like selecting the type of wood, grain, and plank width for your room—are mostly a matter of personal taste. Oak, hickory, walnut, and ash, along with all the variants therein, are frequent choices for interior hardwood due to their attractiveness and durability (to learn more about the wood hardness and the Janka Scale, head to letter J!), while plank width can range from the more traditional 2-to-3” boards to ultra-wide 7”, which can show off the intricacies of the wood grain.

With prefinished boards, you’ll be able to choose the exact shade, grain, and finish of your hardwood floors from the get-go. This allows for a more concrete vision of what the flooring will look like when fully laid out (with no unwanted surprises). Unfinished boards—which are installed first and stained later—make for a more customized look, but are something of a gamble if the stain doesn’t turn out quite the way you envisioned it.
“I think hardwood is timeless,” says general contractor Jessica Pleasants. “And the finishing product you use—whether it’s a penetrating oil, polyurethane sealant on top, or a prefinished material—will greatly affect the overall final look of your floors.”
There’s a whole range of finishing products for hardwood floors, and to select which one is best for you, it’s important to (once again!) think about the space you’re tackling and its day-to-day uses.
Polyurethane finishes, whether water-based or oil-based, are durable and long-lasting, making them strong contenders for high-traffic areas.
Penetrating oils, on the other hand, has a more matte look, which works to accentuate the grain of the wood but are much less resilient. They are often paired with wood stains, and sometimes come as a combination oil and stain.

Pro Finisher 5 gal. Clear Gloss 350 VOC Oil-Based Interior Polyurethane for Floors
Rust-Oleum Parks homedepot.com
$134.00

1 gal. Clear Satin Water-Based Floor Polyurethane (2-Pack)
Varathane homedepot.com
$93.96

1 qt. Dark Walnut Classic Wood Interior Stain
Varathane homedepot.com
$6.98

1-gal. Woodacres Oak Semi-Transparent Oil-Based Wood Finish Penetrating Interior Stain
Olympic homedepot.com
$31.97

It can be enough to make your head swim—semi-gloss versus satin gloss; the level of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) you’re comfortable with; estimating resistance to scratches and scuffs (whew!)—but know this: like Goldilocks, there’s a finish out there that’s just right for your room.

Installation is no joke
Consider your hardwood flooring a living, breathing part of your home and you’ll be on your way to success.
Solid hardwood boards should be allowed to sit in the room where they will be installed for upwards of a week prior to nailing them down. This will allow the hardwood to expand (or contract) in response to the exact temperature levels and moisture point in the room. Otherwise, you might be left with gaps between boards or buckling if they haven’t properly acclimated. (Engineered wood, on the other hand, only requires about 24 hours to get adjusted to its new surroundings.)
The next step (and, no, you’re not nailing yet!), is to lay out or “rack” the boards in the order you’d like to see them on the floor, running parallel to the longest wall in the room. Think of this part like a giant jigsaw puzzle, mixing and matching boards from various bundles side-by-side to ensure there aren’t homogenous patches throughout the space.
Before installing, “rack” the floor boards, or lay them out, in the order you’d like to see them on the floor.
You’ll also want to leave at least a half-inch of space around the perimeter of the room—called an “expansion gap”—to account for board expansion. These gaps will eventually be covered by baseboards or moulding. (More on that under letter M for Molding!)

Yes, you have to make nail choices
Hardwood floors are held in place with nails—also known as “cleats”—or alternatively staples, and most often rely on a pneumatic floor nailer to help lock boards in place. Nails should be just long enough to sink into the subflooring, but no longer, making exact measurements (and following the manufacturer’s instructions) key for installing a solid, sturdy floor.

Visible nails in new hardwood floors are less prominent than they used to be. The rise of tongue-in-groove construction hides nails through a method called “blind-nailing,” where the groove of each subsequent plank hides them in the tongue of the plank before it, and so on. “Face-nailing”—hammering a nail into a pilot hole—is used closer to walls, where a nailer often doesn’t fit.
For those who are interested in nails that are more exposed and have a vintage, oo la la factor? There are a growing number of decorative flooring nail options, like square heads, antique versions, brass, and everything in between. Just make sure you don’t sacrifice form over function for these sharp little beauties.

The finishing touches matter

18-Volt ONE+ Cordless Orbital Jig Saw (Tool-Only)
RYOBI homedepot.com
$69.00

The grand finale of installing hardwood will often include trimming (likely using a jigsaw) the last row of boards to fit, and then face-nailing them. If your flooring is skirting any sort of obstacle—like a fireplace or kitchen island—the wood will also have to be custom cut in a similar fashion. And, if you are DIYing, always protect your physical health during the process by clearing out sawdust and wearing kneepads during an installation.
While the material is pricier, solid hardwood is a no-brainer for those looking to invest in their home for decades to come.
“For my money, a prefinished hardwood floor not only delivers the best value, but it’s probably the most accessible to install from a tools standpoint,” says general contractor Mark Clement, who points out that even the slightest slip-up on installation procedures with engineered “click-and-lock” hardwood can lead to a cancellation of the manufacturer’s warranty.
“With prefinished—or even unfinished—solid hardwood, there is a certain physicality to it that the [engineered] flooring doesn’t have. And once you get everything in place during installation, you’re off to the races.” More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.
When it comes to hardwood flooring, different styles possess varying levels of durability and sturdiness. Hardwoods (and so-called “softwoods,” which are sometimes used in homes or for outdoor porches) have a vast range of hardness that can profoundly impact their functionality and longevity in your living space. So how do you find out which woods are the hardest? The Janka Scale, of course.
Pronounced “yanka”, the Janka Scale was created by an Austrian-born wood researcher named Gabriel Janka. It assesses a wood’s resistance to wear and denting by measuring the force required to embed a BB-sized steel ball halfway into a sample. The “score” each type of wood receives is then recorded in “pound force” (lbf) on the Janka Scale.

Rule of thumb: 1,000 or above
The rule of thumb when shopping for hardwood flooring is that a Janka Scale score of 1,000 or above is the level of durability one wants in their home, and consulting the Janka Scale graphic makes it easy to see which woods rank where in the hierarchy. (If you plan to DIY your flooring, it’s also a great resource for understanding out how difficult it will be to nail into the wood when laying your boards.)
Knowing your hardwood’s rating on the Janka Scale comes in handy when you’re buying for a high-traffic room where a softer wood underfoot might be damaged by rowdy puppy paws or the crash of sporting equipment hitting the floor after practice.

Hickory and oak score high
Hickory and oak, as well as their variants, are two common hardwoods that score high on the Janka Scale and can easily withstand the pressures of an active household while still providing a timeless look. Hard maple is also a hardy option, but, as general contractor Joe Truini points out, it’s the type of wood used for basketball courts. That is to say: Unless you’re trying to give off a real March Madness vibe inside your home, it might be worth skipping.
Softer hardwoods like ash, cherry, and birch tend to have more subtle variations in their color and gradation, which can create a more sophisticated look, with a higher price tag. These hardwoods are ideal for flooring adults-only, low-traffic spaces, or homes where everyone respects the “no shoes in the house” rule. (This writer likes to think about putting down cherry hardwood as “retirement flooring.”)

Plano Natural Hickory 3/4 in. Thick x 3-1/4 in. Wide x Random Length Solid Hardwood Flooring (22 sq. ft. / case)
Bruce homedepot.com
$87.78

Red Oak Natural 3/4 in. Thick x 2-1/4 in. Wide x Random Length Solid Hardwood Flooring (18 sq. ft. / case)
Blue Ridge Hardwood Flooring homedepot.com
$64.61

High Gloss Birch Cherry 3/4 in. Thick x 4-3/4 in. Wide x Random Length Solid Hardwood Flooring (18.70 sq. ft. / case)
Home Legend homedepot.com
$93.30

Bay Point 7 mm T x 5.2 in W x 36.22 in L Waterproof Engineered Click Bamboo Flooring 13.07 sq. ft. sf/case)
LifeProof homedepot.com
$48.22

The Janka Scale can even reveal subtle hardness differences between woods that appear to be quite similar. “The most popular hardwood flooring out there is red oak, and it has a rating of about 1,290,” says Truini. But he also notes that white oak, which people don’t often consider, looks similar to red oak and has a rating of about 1,350—100 points higher than its cousin.

But hardness isn’t everything
Hardness, however, isn’t everything in a floor, and Truini recommends considering about the Holy Trinity of hardwood—aesthetic appeal, price point, and durability—when making a decision. “If you fall in love with American black walnut boards, which have a rating of 1,010, you should get them even though they don’t have a super-high [Janka] score,” he advises. Additionally, Truini lives in New England and sees pine floors in many houses. “They don’t have a rating higher than 1,000. It might dent a little more and it might wear a little more, but if you like the look of pine or walnut, you should do it.”

Consider the Holy Trinity of hardwood—aesthetic appeal, price point, and durability.

When it comes to durability, though, even the Janka Scale has its limits. The rating system doesn’t have any bearing on how well hardwood floors can stand up to stains from spilled Pinot Noir and marker accidents. That all comes down to the finish. “Whether you choose ash, oak, maple, or even walnut, they’re all hardwood,” Truini says. “They’re all relatively hard as far as just walking across it day-to-day. Even if the floor is bamboo [which has a hardness of 1,300 or more] and the finish is worn off the top, it’s going to stain.”
Having all the information possible at your fingertips before you make a major flooring decision is empowering, and will ensure the best decision for your family’s unique lifestyle. So let’s give a round of applause to Gabriel Janka, the patron saint of helping even the least math-inclined person grasp the complexities of hardwood hardness. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

So many of the investments that go into a house require maintenance, whether it’s ensuring that your appliances are regularly cleaned or your HVAC’S air filters get refreshed every couple of months. If you have hardwood floors at home, or are planning for their installation, the same logic applies. Over time, scuffs, discoloration and dings in the wood can develop, leaving your floors in need of a tune-up.
Fortunately, hardwood can be refinished up to 10 times over its lifespan, and if done properly, the job can last a decade. No matter if you decide to do it yourself or hire a professional, it’s best to know the basics before diving into the process. And with the right tools, all of which you can find at The Home Depot, your floors can get back to good-looking ASAP.

But first, a quick test
Make sure your floors actually need to be refinished using the (incredibly simple) water droplet test. Drip a few beads of water on the area you believe is in need of refinishing. If the water seeps into the wood, it means the wood fibers are exposed, and the floors likely does need to be refinished. If the water droplets bead up, it means your floors might just need a good clean and polish (a much simpler process!).

New England-based general contractor Joe Truini notes that stains are also a good indicator that hardwood might need to be refinished. “Wood is extremely porous, so if it’s worn, it’ll be susceptible to staining,” he says.
It goes without saying that if you perform the water droplet test and are at all unsure of the results, it’s best to call in a professional for expert advice.

Tools of the trade: Sanders and buffers
If go-time for refinishing is here — and you’re sure you feel comfortable with power tools — gather all the items you’ll need to successfully tackle the project (note: these are likely not in the average household toolbox). Review the process thoroughly, and note common mistakes ahead time, like overly-aggressive sanding.
“What you don’t want to do is wind up sanding a depression in the floor, because you can’t put the wood back,” says Truini. “There’s no real repair other than pulling up the flooring.”

Refinishing consists of sanding (left) the floor and then, most of the time, buffing (right) it.

Before any sander hits the wood, you’ll want to prep the room. Completely clear out all items, clean the floors, and remove any base molding to prevent damage. While most sanders have built in dust collection systems, it’s important to seal off the room where you’ll be working using plastic and sturdy painter’s tape — this prevents dust from spreading into other areas of the house. And always wear the right kind of protective equipment, like goggles and a dust mask. (For more information on installation safety, see letter I.)

An edger sander is your best bet for rough-sanding tight spots (like corners) and smaller spaces (like a closet), while a random orbital sander is recommended for non-professionals tackling the refinishing of a larger space on their own. (Rough-sanding removes the major nicks and stains in the wood.) Belt and drum sanders are bigger and can get the job done faster, but if you are worried about wielding one, leave it to the pros instead of risking damage to the floors. For an extra polished look, pros might use a floor buffer fitted with a fine-grit screen to rough-sand floors before staining or finishing them.
All of these tools can easily be rented at The Home Depot, and likely aren’t items you’re going to want to purchase for keeps (unless you’re ready to take your refinishing show on the road).
Plan to use the edger sander and orbital sander in tandem to ensure consistency throughout the wood, working a little bit at a time with the same grade of sandpaper in both tools. (Tip: You can practice your skills ahead of time on a piece of old plywood.)

The numbers associated with sandpaper grit indicate coarsness—the lower a number is, the coarser the grit. The higher a number is, the finer the grit will be.

Always move from a coarser grain sandpaper (like 36 grit, which will better remove old finishes and surface stains) to a finer grain sandpaper (like 60, 80 or 100 grit) to create a smooth surface. Don’t try and speed up the process by jumping from an ultra-coarse sandpaper to something super-fine: You likely won’t be removing enough old products to prepare the floors for a new stain and/or finish. Even more so than most flooring projects, patience is critical when refinishing hardwood. After sanding, you’ll want to do another thorough clean to prevent dust from affecting your HVAC system and appliances.

Stains add style to hardwood

After you’ve finished sanding and dust has been properly discarded, it’s time for something with less machinery: applying stain.
Stains are applied to the floor like paint and enhance the natural beauty of the wood. Select your stain based on the type of hardwood (different woods accept stains differently!) and, of course, how you’d like the floors to appear. Lighter stains can help give the room a more airy feeling and allow the wood grain to shine through, while darker stains can make the floors the focal point of the room and add sophistication. It’s also important to keep in mind that darker stains tend to show more dirt due to the contrast between dust particles (or crumbs, or pet hair) and the wood. Working in a small area at a time (think: 3 feet x 3 feet), apply the stain with a foam applicator pad, wiping up excess stain with a rag as you go.

The finishing touch that’s a must
Once the stain dries, a hardwood flooring finish seals the deal and protects all of your hard work. Even if you choose not to stain your floors in the step above, you must finish them. (It isn’t called refinishing for nothing!)
Finishes can be water-based polyurethane (which dries quickly and relatively clear), oil-based polyurethane (which dries slower and allows for more time to complete the job, but requires a respirator while working) or wood oils (which showcase the textured grain pattern of the wood). This is easiest to do with a large roller, working from the back of the room toward an exit door so that you don’t paint yourself into a corner (literally).

1 pt. Natural Danish Oil
Watco homedepot.com
$8.98

1 qt. Clear Semi-Gloss Oil-Based Interior Polyurethane
Varathane homedepot.com
$11.48

1 qt. Clear Satin Water-Based Interior Polyurethane (2-Pack)
Varathane homedepot.com
$32.96

9 in. x 1/2 in. Pro/Doo-Z High-Density Woven Roller Cover (3-Pack)
Wooster homedepot.com
$12.75

While there is patience required for this job if you plan to DIY, reviving your hardwood floors will breathe new life into your home and ensure they’ll be around for generations to come (knock on wood!). More