Home Ideas

Kiss awkward yoga-in-the-laundry-room goodbye. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

While its likely not the first detail you think of when embarking on a flooring project, molding—whether for walls, floors, windows, or doors—helps a room become the most polished version of itself. Shoe molding and baseboard, two types of molding, secure the perimeter of a room and help create a clean, finished look between the floor and walls.

But there are a dizzying number of options that can cause choice paralysis if you’re not careful. So here’s a quick guide all about the role molding plays when it comes to flooring, and how to select a style that’s right for you from the collection at The Home Depot. Read up now, and you’re less likely to be stuck fretting over these final steps when the time comes.

Shoe molding: Mind the “expansion gap”

Shoe molding is the simplest (and most foundational) base molding type out there. It acts as a seam between flooring and a wall and covers the all-important “expansion gap”: a small vertical space which allows for the floor to inhale and exhale — relatively speaking — without buckling up against the wall and damaging itself. (For more information on hardwood floors, see letter H!)

WM129 7/16 in. x 11/16 in x 96 in. Base Shoe Moulding
Finished Elegance homedepot.com
$4.54

Also called “base shoe” because of its position at (you guessed it!) shoe level, this functional and flexible wood trim is found in most rooms with a hard flooring surface, whether that’s laminate, hardwood, tile, or luxury vinyl.

In addition to filling in the expansion gap and providing a buffer for any furniture that might bump up into the walls, shoe molding fills in the spaces where baseboard and floor don’t quite match up. (And since baseboards can be fairly ornate and sometimes lack straight lines on the bottom, this happens more often than you might think.)
Shoe molding, which is usually nailed into a baseboard using finishing nails and never into the wall, comes in a wide range of styles, shapes, and sizes. The style that works best for you depends on your home’s overall design aesthetic. Plain and simple quarter-round base shoe (named because it looks like a quarter cut of a dowel rod) will get the job done, but more ornate forms of pre-cut shoe molding are sleeker, and can range from arts-and-crafts-style to colonial and beyond. Most importantly, base shoe is taller than it is wide which ensures it doesn’t jut out into the room too far while still filling the expansion gap. On average, it clocks in at about ¾” to 1” in height and ½” in width.

The molding style that works best in your home depends on the overall design aesthetic.

Molding material also plays a big part in the overall finished look of a room. Molding that’s made from medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is an inexpensive solid-wood alternative that comes primed, but should be painted (and not stained) to give your space a complete look. It’s extra flexible, so if there are uneven spots on your baseboard, or even the flooring itself, it could be a smart choice.
Solid wood molding typically comes in two camps: pine (a softwood), which is relatively inexpensive and can be stained or painted, and hardwood (ash, oak, or walnut are common choices), which can also be stained or painted. If you’re feeling funky, try an unexpected finish, like painting the trim to match the walls instead of painting it traditional white, or stain it to match the floors.
But whatever you choose, don’t forget to paint or stain your shoe molding (and trim of any kind) prior to installing it.

Baseboards: They bring the drama

If shoe molding is the subtle element, quietly adding a protective finishing touch to your space, baseboards are the attention-grabbers that can completely change the feel of a room. Baseboard serves a similar purpose to shoe molding (tying together the floor-meets-wall area), but it is much taller and often more decorative. Often working in tandem with shoe molding (but occasionally standing alone), baseboards not only can add character to a room but help tie it to the design identity of other parts of the house.

5523 29/64 in. x 3-1/4 in. x 8 ft. PVC Composite White Colonial Base Moulding
Royal Building Products homedepot.com
$8.57

LWM 163E 9/16 in. x 5-1/4 in. Solid Pine Base Moulding
Woodgrain Millwork homedepot.com
$2.64

Timeless Craftsman 55E1 5-1/2 in. x 11/16 in. x 96 in. Primed MDF Base Moulding
Woodgrain Millwork homedepot.com
$11.27

WM 631 9/16 in. x 3-1/4 in. x 96 in. Primed Finger-Jointed Base Moulding
Woodgrain Millwork homedepot.com
$13.11

The most important factor to take into consideration with your baseboards is how they will feel in conjunction with other elements of the space. For example, if you have high ceilings in an older home and want to match that grandiose feel, go for an equally tall baseboard with a colonial design. Do you live in a more modern space? Flat baseboards are all the rage, adding a polished look without drawing too much attention. More

A seamless transition between flooring is as important for looks as it is safety. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Choosing the right flooring for your home means considering a laundry list of questions, from what kind of ambiance you’d like to how many shoes will be scuffling across it each day. When it gets down to decision-making time, though, the single biggest factor for most people is budget. Fortunately, there’s a material that’s accessible for almost everyone’s wallet: vinyl.
Vinyl might have a reputation for being cheap and flimsy, but this assumption belies the more modern versions on the market now. Today, vinyl is often manufactured to smartly mimic hardwood or tile, and is made up of a central core, a printed photo of the material it’s imitating, like distressed wood or ultra-sleek teak, and a clear, protective “wear layer” finish.
The Layers of Luxury Vinyl Flooring

The options for different looks are pretty much limitless — for example, The Home Depot stocks almost 1,000 options for vinyl planks — and on average costs much less than the flooring it’s emulating, between $2 to $5 per square foot. (In comparison, hardwood can go for upwards of $10 per square foot.)

Today, vinyl often means luxury vinyl

Hockley Oak 8.7 in. W x 47.64 in. L Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring (20.06 sq. ft./Case)
LifeProof homedepot.com
$63.98

When people talk about contemporary vinyl flooring, they’re likely referring to luxury vinyl (LV) flooring, which is made in plank form or tile form — not the rolled out sheets of the past — and is a serious step up over former iterations of the material.
Vinyl planks can vary in thickness, from approximately 2 millimeters to 8 millimeters, and denser planks will be your best bet in busier areas of the home, like hallways and living rooms, due to greater stability.
If you’re searching for vinyl flooring that can really hang tough against wear, a high-quality version of vinyl planks known as engineered vinyl planks (EVPs) are created with a “rigid core” system that makes them extra sturdy even when faced with the rowdiest situations. (They’re also completely waterproof, unlike some vinyl, which is only water resistant.) Whatever density of vinyl you select, the material is well-loved for its springiness and warmth, which is welcoming underfoot.

It’s a DIY-friendly material

Carrara Marble 12 in. x 24 in. Peel and Stick Vinyl Tile (20 sq. ft. / case)
TrafficMASTER homedepot.com
$22.40

If simple installation is what you’re after, you can’t get much easier than vinyl. Some brands use the “floating floor” technology that’s also common with laminate, in which planks simply click and lock together atop pretty much any previously existing surface without the need for nails or glue.
Others use a self-adhesive material that can be applied directly to a subfloor in a method that’s as painless as applying a giant, super-strong flooring sticker. With vinyl tiles, there’s even groutable versions to further enhance their look-a-like nature.

Clean-up is less of a chore
Thanks to the wear layer on top (which can last upwards of 10 years with proper care), simply sweeping and mopping on a regular basis will keep your floors looking tip-top, no scrubbing required. In fact, using too much elbow grease is pretty much the only way to harm your vinyl floors, so stay away from any harsh chemicals, rough scouring pads or steam cleaning.
Because of its easy-cleaning nature, spills and messes are less of a worry with vinyl than with other flooring types, making it a strong choice for spaces like playrooms, where fingerpainting is common, or kitchens, where pizza slices might go splat. Basements and bathrooms, which can sometimes be challenging places to apply new flooring due to moisture levels, are also primo spots for vinyl due to the fact that it’s less likely to warp under even the most humid conditions.

Vinyl is a go-to for rooms in the home that are prone to higher moisture levels, like bathrooms and basements.

Be mindful of the flip side
Of course, there are other aspects of vinyl to take into consideration before you choose it. Vinyl isn’t biodegradable, so if you’re looking to create a more sustainable home environment, it would be better to go with a different material, like cork or bamboo. While most versions will stand up against the scuffs and scrapes of day-to-day life, it can still be dented, particularly through moving heavy objects like furniture. And it won’t necessarily add long-term value to your home like actual hardwood or tile, so if you’re planning on selling or moving soon, don’t expect to make back your investment.
But if you’re in your home for the long haul and are looking for an inexpensive, easy-to-install way to update the look of your space? Vinyl just might be the answer. More

These decorative tiles pack a big punch. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

If there’s one element of flooring to consider an indispensable ally, it’s underlayment. A thin layer of material that runs between your visible flooring (hardwood, vinyl, tile, you name it) and the subfloor, it’s a hidden problem solver that can address several unexpected flooring issues. Whether you’re counting on it to create a sturdy, level surface for flooring, keep potential moisture damage at bay, reduce noise or all of the above, there’s an underlayment material out there suited specifically to your project, and it can be found at The Home Depot.

Underlayment is the barrier between flooring and subfloor

Underlayment is made from both “hard” and “soft” materials, which are used in different instances. “Hard” materials, like plywood and cement “backer” board, attach to the subfloor itself and are best for flooring types like tile. “Soft” materials, like foam, fiber and cork, work frequently with “floating” floor applications — including luxury vinyl, engineered hardwood and laminate — and aren’t attached to the subfloor directly.

Waterproof Underlayment for Vinyl, Laminate, Engineered Floors
Eco Cork Foam homedepot.com
$56.25

Underlayment with Sound and Moisture Barrier for Laminate & Engineered Flooring
QuietWalk homedepot.com
$47.03

HardieBacker Cement Backerboard
James Hardie homedepot.com
$11.48

Plywood Underlayment
The Home Depot homedepot.com
$6.99

The manufacturer will likely point you in the right direction as to what you need, so make sure to double check their recommendations. What’s more, many newer models of luxury vinyl and laminate floors come equipped with the underlayment already built-in, making it more DIY-friendly with no extra step necessary.

Underlayment makes things smooth and steady
Underlayment’s primary purpose is to create the smoothest, most supportive surface possible for visible flooring, and usually maxes out at about ¼” to ½” in thickness. This point is particularly important in situations where the subfloor isn’t exactly flat, like in older homes or fixer-uppers, and will ensure the durability and comfort of flooring as it inevitably responds to shifts over time.

It keeps things dry as a bone

No one wants mildew and mold building up beneath a floor’s surface, and without underlayment, it’s a major risk in many rooms of the home, especially basements. In any area where humidity tends to run high, a moisture-resistant underlayment — like pre-treated backerboard — will help keep water vapor from potentially damaging your freshly laid engineered hardwood or laminate, which can cause it to warp and buckle.

It helps minimize noise
If noise travels further in your house than you’d like, underlayment with noise-reduction properties should be on your radar. There are several rating systems that test flooring acoustics for evidence on how they stand up against foot fall, blaring TVs and everything in between. But when it comes to underlayment, the systems test known as the Delta IIC is your best resource, which specifically helps determine how effective different types of underlayment are when it comes to canceling out noise.
The higher the Delta IIC score, the greater the degree of noise cancellation (measured in decibels) that the sound-reduction underlayment has added. Underlayment made from felt, rubber or recycled fibers are often used to great effect here, and are helpful in any sort of high-traffic area, not just in an at-home recording studio. Bonus: underlayment that absorbs sound can often be good at trapping heat, helping floors retain warmth for longer when temperatures take a downward turn.

Consider eco-friendly cork

200 sq. ft. 1/4 in. Cork Underlayment Roll
QEP homedepot.com
$128.84

It might run on the pricier side, but cork is an eco-friendly, naturally bug repellant, hypoallergenic and sound-absorbing underlayment option for homeowners committed to a greener lifestyle. Cork is also an excellent energy conductor, so it’s a good option if you have radiant heat.
Just don’t use it in any area that’s prone to dampness: even with a moisture barrier, cork’s porous nature means it won’t perform as well under those conditions. More

What’s under your feet is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Tile has one of the biggest personalities of the flooring world—and loves to be the center of attention. It always draws plenty of “oohs!” and “ahhs!” from visitors, whether it’s featured in a splashy entryway or a serene bathroom.
It’s time, though, that these showpieces start sharing the spotlight—and credit!—with their sidekick: grout. The Home Depot is a veritable one-stop shop for tilework, whether you plan to hire a professional or DIY a tile floor (or even a backsplash or shower). Knowing a thing or two about grouting will help you either way.

The project dictates grout type
Typically sold in just-add-water powder form or pre-mixed, grout is a mixture of cement, sand, and water that fills in the grooves between each tile. It comes in a variety of hues and can significantly change the look of tile, whether by adding a deeper level of contrast (think white subway tile, black grout) or complementing it for a more uniform look (white subway tile, white grout).

Sanded grout is used when joints—the space between the tiles—are greater than 1/8” and is the go-to for most flooring projects due to the fact it’s more resistant to cracking. Unsanded grout, on the other hand, is a thinner consistency, and better suited for vertical tile-work, like a back splash. (An exception to the rule is when you’re working with a softer material like marble, which needs unsanded grout due to its delicate nature.)

Color and spacing go hand in hand

1/8 in. Original Job-Tough Tombstone-Style Tile Spacers (250 pack)
QEP homedepot.com
$2.97

When it comes to selecting a color, consider that grout will likely darken overtime thanks to dirt brought in from foot traffic. And there’s also the grout-to-tile ratio to be aware of. With smaller tiles, the grout lines will be more prominent because the tiles themselves take up less space. The two will work more in tandem than with larger tiles, where the grout will take more of a backseat.

1/8” is the standard spacing for a flooring grout line, but will depend on the type of tile, its size, and the pattern being created. (In general, you’re never going to dip below 1/8” for flooring, but could have a grout line that’s 1/4” or 1/2”.) Using spacers—like those shown below—will ensure an even grout-line throughout the project, so unless you really trust yourself, don’t attempt to freestyle.

The right tools make things easier
If you plan to DIY, thinking about tile and grout as two parts of an aesthetic whole can make the installation process easier. “When you’re laying tile, keep a bristle brush with you and a bucket of water,” counsels general contractor Mark Clements, who uses the brush to remove any excess mortar when installing the tiles prior to the grouting stage. “That will save you a day when you get ready to grout.”

Polyblend #381 Bright White 10 lb. Non-Sanded Grout
Custom Building Products homedepot.com
$12.98

Single-Paddle Mixer
RIDGID homedepot.com
$139.00

5 Gal. Homer Bucket
The Home Depot homedepot.com
$3.48

Grout and Tile Cleaning Brush
QEP homedepot.com
$2.97

Unless purchased pre-mixed, it’s important to thoroughly mix your grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the most colorfast and consistent result possible. After all, no one is on the hunt for tie-dye grout. After mixing, grout rests for a while to allow the water to fully penetrate the dry ingredients, a process known as “slaking.”

Working quickly is key
Then, the spreading process begins. Working in a manageably small-sized section (think 3’ x 3’ at most) and using a special, trowel-like tool known as a “grout float,” spread the grout as evenly as possible over the empty spaces between the tiles at a 90-degree angle, filling in the joints while wiping away excess grout. The grout will begin to harden after a few minutes—success is near!—but the next step is one that often hangs up DIYers.

The process of grouting (from top left, clockwise) is quick work. Prepping the grout, applying it, and washing it all need to be done swiftly.

Using a “grout sponge” (essentially, a heavy-duty kitchen sponge), wipe the tiles in a circular motion, paying extra attention not to disrupt the edges of the grout line. Being careful is the name of the game here: you can end up spreading wet grout around on the tile and making messy, excess work. Fortunately, general contractor Joe Truini has a trick.
“The grout sponge rapidly becomes saturated with grout—you can only wipe the sponge across so much and it’s full, and then you’re just moving it around,” he says. “So, the formula for wiping down grout is count, ‘One, two—flip the sponge—three, ring it out.’” This process of wiping and rinsing may need to be repeated several times, especially if you are using dark-colored grout that is green or black.

4 in. x 9 in. Economy Grout Flooring Float
ANVIL homedepot.com
$6.98

7-1/2 in. x 5-1/2 in. Extra Large Grouting, Cleaning and Washing Sponge (3-Pack)
QEP homedepot.com
$3.97

32 oz. 511 Impregnator Penetrating Sealer
Miracle Sealants homedepot.com
$29.27

Grout Haze Remover
The Tile Doctor homedepot.com
$12.95

Once you’ve “one, two, flipped” with success and the grout has dried (about 24 hours), the tiles will likely be left with a film called “grout haze” on them. This can be cleaned with several different types of specialty products, but wiping with a damp towel, then buffing with a dry one, typically works just as well.

Don’t forget to seal
And as you bask in the glow of the perfectly matched tile-and-grout pairing that now make up your new floor (or shower, or backsplash), be sure to take the time to seal the grout, which is porous and needs extra protection from the elements—particularly in moisture-heavy areas like bathrooms. Truini favors a quarter inch or narrower artist’s brush, and recommends using two coats the first time and resealing your grout once a year.
The relationship between grout and tile is one of give and take—choosing complementary colors, styles, and patterns—as well as one of mutual respect, which ensures that the grout is given as much attention as the tile during both installation and in the years to come. And if that happens? You’ve got yourself the beginning of a beautiful flooring friendship. More

What’s under your feet (or however you get around) is as important as anything when it comes to home. That’s why this fall, we collaborated with The Home Depot on an A to Z guide that’ll give you the confidence to make flooring choices you’ll love. Check out the A to Z handbook here.

Behind every successful home flooring effort, there’s a strong support system in place that ensures all new projects have a proper foundation. It can be tempting to dive right in when you’ve gone head-over-heels for the eco-friendly bamboo of your dreams or have the tile pattern for your kitchen just right. (Trust us, we know.)
But the critical importance of making sure your new floor has the support it deserves will guarantee you’ll be walking on something durable and beautiful for years to come. Thankfully, The Home Depot is a one-stop shop for flooring prep.

What’s under there, anyway?

“People always know what kind of flooring they want to put down, but what they really need to ask themselves is, ‘What’s on the floor now?’” says general contractor Joe Truini, who is also the host of “Simple Solutions” on Today’s Homeowner TV. Meaning: If your foyer has sheet vinyl flooring and you want to put tile, you first need to figure out what’s under the vinyl.
When you remove flooring that’s already in place and examine the condition of what’s underneath, you’ll find some circumstances simpler to tackle than others. “In the easiest situation, there’s carpeting that has plywood underneath,” Truini explains. “You rip up the carpeting, then in a couple of hours the room’s down to bare plywood and you have a clean slate to support whatever it is you want to put down.”
And keep in mind the new flooring you’ve selected. For example, with a floating laminate floor, the condition of the subfloor won’t really matter. But, there are important subfloor rules for materials like porcelain and stone tile, which isn’t flexible and can crack with any movement or deflection.

First things first: underlayment
One of the bedrock elements when installing a new floor is underlayment, which provides a cushion for the flooring that prevents squeaks and creaks when walking (particularly important if the floor is over, say, a living room). “The underlayment also evens out any little imperfections in the subfloor, so if the plywood has a little bit of an imperfection in the seam, you won’t see that in the floor,” says Truini.

Prep Like a Pro

LevelQuik RS 50 lbs. Self-Leveling Underlayment
homedepot.com
$27.87

Standard Polyethylene Foam 2-in-1 Underlayment
homedepot.com
$27.98

RedGard Waterproofing, 1 gal
homedepot.com
$47.87

James Hardie HardieBacker Waterproof Cement Backer Board
homedepot.com
$19.98

Self-leveling underlayment, for example, is a more recent innovation that does exactly what its name describes: provides a floor protection barrier that seeks its own level within minutes of being rolled out. It also dries within hours, saving a great deal of time when laying new carpet, vinyl planks, or tile. It can even eliminate installation problems like bond failure, which is typically caused by moisture found in traditional underlayment. (More about underlayment can be found “under” letter U!)When creating a base for any new floor, but particularly one in rooms that will be prone to splashing or wet rain boots, it pays to take waterproofing precautions. Look for waterproofing products like a sealant, whether roll-on or aerosol sprayed, to prevent seepage or cracks in tile and stone floor, or even opt for applying a waterproof backer board to the subfloor to create moisture barrier. (This comes in handy for bathroom renovations.)

Don’t forget the big picture
In addition to these hands-on, nitty gritty steps, preparing for a new floor requires a good bit of big picture thinking. Ensuring that the new floor won’t be too tall (or short) for existing external doorways is a big concern, as is double checking that major appliances and electronics are all turned off (and, potentially, removed) during the flooring switch up.

“Homeowners need to think about their role in the flooring job…Think about what ‘tools’ you can best bring to the table.”

And, generally speaking, know your strengths and weaknesses with the task at hand, advises general contractor Mark Clement. “Homeowners need to think about their role in the flooring job. Are you the designer? Are you the color expert? Are you the texture person? Or are you the nuts-and-bolts installer? Think about what ‘tools’ you can best bring to the table.” In other words: be honest with yourself if this is best left to a professional instead of a DIY job. More