Home Ideas

Does your space feel a little… drab? Switching up your wall color in a trendy shade is the one of the quickest ways to rehab a tired space. And since it’s a project most homeowners can tackle themselves, it’s one of the most affordable, too.
But as easy as painting sounds, there are some tricks to the trade. Take prep work, for example. If you skip this important step, you could end up with a real problem on your hands — an undercoat that shows through or peeling paint. If you’re painting latex over oil, for example, you’ll likely get cracking, says Rachel Rothman, chief technologist and director of engineering at the Good Housekeeping Institute. These types of mistakes not only take time to remedy, but can also cost a significant amount of money if you have to hire a professional to fix your errors.
Don’t fret, though: As long as you’re using the right supplies and have a handle on the basics, you’ll be painting like a pro in no time at all. Here, we’ll break it all down for you, covering everything from supplies, to necessary prep, to rolling evenly, and even cleaning your brushes so you can move on to the next project on your list. Follow these tips for professional-looking results:
1. Make a plan.
Before you ever pick up a paint brush, you need a plan of attack. Think of it sort of like cooking: You want to read the recipe all the way through before you start blindly throwing ingredients into the pot, otherwise, you might get halfway through and realize you’re missing an important component.
Look up: Does the ceiling need a refresh, too? What about the trim? Consider your options on the walls as well. Will you be using one color — or do you want to try painting with two colors (an accent wall, perhaps)?
2. Select the perfect color.
When it comes to paint shades, the options are boundless. It’s a fortunate problem: While you’ll inevitably find just what your’e looking for, landing on the right hue can be quite the process. To guide your search, start by thinking about what you ultimately want. Do you envision a warm or a cool shade? Does your space warrant a bold color, or would a neutral be more appropriate? Once you have a general idea of the direction you want to go in, you can begin sifting through paint chips.
But don’t rely on the little square to make a final decision: Once on the wall, paint can look very different than it does on the sample card! Colors often look brighter once on the wall, and the light in your room can have a dramatic impact on the way the color reads. Pick a few finalists, then purchase sample cans.
3. Paint a sample swatch.
Once you have sample cans in hand, paint swatches on the wall. To give you a good idea of how the color will look in your space, paint two coats of color in a 12-inch-by-12-inch square. If your room has both sunny and shady spots, it’s smart to put swatches in both areas, as this can affect the final look.
Alternatively, you can paint two coats onto a foam board (available at any craft or office supply store) and tape it to the wall. This is a great option for those who don’t intend to get started right away, as you won’t have to live with random color streaks on your walls.
Pro tip: Use an inexpensive foam brush for this type of sample painting. This way, you won’t dirty a ton of brushes or waste money.
4. Calculate how much paint you need.
When determining how much paint to buy, many retailers have helpful calculators you can use. Always double check packaging, but in general, a gallon is roughly good for 250 to 400 square feet, says Rothman. And don’t forget: You’ll need a little extra for touch-ups and mistakes.
5. Gather the right materials.
Though the surface and size of what your painting will directly influence the exact list of supplies you need, it’s a good idea to stock your toolkit with some combination of the following items:
Painter’s tape
Drop cloths
Paint brushes (both angled and straight)
Paint roller
Paint tray
Stir stick
Paint
Other worthy investments: An extension pole, so you can stash away the ladder after the edging step; a paint-can opener; and a pour spout to lessen mess.
6. Prep the room for painting.
First, dry-dust the walls floor to ceiling and scrub any extra-grimy parts with a wet sponge or cloth; paint won’t adhere as well to a dirty surface (think fingerprints, soot, dust, cobwebs). Let dry before you paint.
Protect the floor and any furniture you can’t (or don’t want to) move, from paint splatters and spills. For the floor, choose fabric drop cloths instead of plastic ones, as plastic can be slick under your feet or, worse, the ladder.
Remove outlet and light switch plates and tape around any areas you don’t want painted (such as moldings, baseboards, or window frames) with painter’s masking tape or Frog Tape. The Good Housekeeping Institute tried the latter on a smooth wall and found that it makes a crisp line and doesn’t let paint bleed through.
7. Prime the wall (or don’t with our handy trick).
A bit of a hinderance when you’re trying to paint a room in one day: Painting over a dark wall with a light color (or covering stains) requires a coat of primer and two coats of paint — and at least six hours of drying time. (If you’re in a super humid room or painting the exterior on a humid day it will take a much longer, notes Rothman.)
That’s why GHI recommends Benjamin Moore Aura, a self-priming paint (it’s a cost-effective option if you were planning on buying primer). Going from light to light? You can get away with two coats of good-quality regular paint.
8. Mix the paint.
Though the store generally shakes the paint for you, a decent stir will ensure your paint is properly mixed. This is particularly important if the can has been sitting on a shelf for any length of time. Though an optional step, you can also strain the paint, says Rothman. “It’s easier to get rid of impurities from the paint can, rather than having them on your wall and having to fix it later.”
9. Get rolling!
Now you’re ready for the main event. If you’re painting a room with two colors — stripes, for example — start with the lighter color first, says Rothman. Once it’s dry, run painter’s tape over the divider, then paint the darker color.
If you’re painting a room one color, here’s how with a roller and a brush, according to the pros:
Use an angled brush or a sponge tool to “cut in,” or paint a two-inch swath around the edges of woodwork and the ceiling. (Don’t forget: These areas should be taped off, as explained in step five.)
Grab your paint tray and a roller. Use 1/4-inch nap for smooth surfaces, 3/8-inch nap for semi-smooth, or 5/8-inch nap for rough — the wrong tool will apply too much or too little paint. If using a latex paint, pre-wet the roller first, says Rothman.
Fill the well of the paint tray about ¼ of the way. Then, when loading the paint, roll the roller back and forth in the well until it is uniformly covered. Finally, move the roller back and forth in the upper portion to remove any excess.
Fill in the central unpainted space using the roller. Paint the wall in overlapping W- or M-shaped strokes for the most even paint distribution.
Let the first coat dry at least a couple of hours, then coat again. Between coats, cover the tray and brush with plastic wrap touching the paint surface, and refrigerate.
Pro tip: Have a moist rag handy to wipe fresh splatters. Scrape off dried drips with a credit card or plastic spatula.
10. Finish and clean up.
Rinse your paintbrush and roller (if you don’t toss it) under a faucet until the water runs clear.
Decant the tray’s leftover paint back into the can; seal the can tightly by placing a paper towel over the lid and tapping the lid edges with a hammer. Rinse the tray.
Once the brush’s bristles are totally dry, slip the brush back into its original paper wrapper to keep the bristles from fanning out, or try this DIY fix: Fold a thick piece of paper around the bristles; tape to secure.
Remove masking tape before you call it a night, pulling it off at a 45-degree angle to avoid tearing the finish.

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Woman’s Day Content Director Meaghan Murphy is an expert when it comes to getting her kids to pitch in around the house. Case in point: the Team Murphy Chore Chart, where her three kids Charley, James, and Brooks keep tabs on the cleaning up tasks they need to complete. The system keeps things fun and simple, while teaching the kids the importance of cleaning up as you go and forming healthy habits. That also happens to be the philosophy behind Scotch-Brite™ Brand’s innovative cleaning products and tools.
Dishwashing plays a major role when it comes to the Murphy kids pitching in—especially when it comes to cleaning up after the family’s famous taco night, which usually involves some super cheesy nachos. Watch the video above to see how the Scotch-Brite® Advanced Scrub Dots Non-Scratch Scrubbers make clean-up so easy, kids can do it.

Scotch-Brite® Advanced Scrub Dots Non-Scratch Scrubbers

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When you invest in a new set of sheets or towels, it’s normal to wonder how long they’ll stay in their best condition. After all, you purchase these items to use them regularly, and there are few household items that go through as many wash cycles as bedding, bath and tabletop fabrics, whether that’s pillowcases, washcloths or table linens.If you fine-tune a few key regular practices, though, you will ensure their lifespan for years to come. Some brands make this easier — Linger Home’s linens, towels and more are made from high-quality and sustainably-sourced materials like French flax linen, organic cotton, and USA-grown Supima cotton, which can put you ahead of the starting line when it comes to care. (Bonus: Their products are also Oeko-Tex certified, which means they’ve been tested ensure there isn’t an unsafe level of chemicals present.)
By following guidelines that our Good Housekeeping experts rely on, you’ll guarantee your textiles stick around in tip-top shape, making day-to-day routines just a little bit softer.
In the Bedroom
Bedsheets and Pillowcases
Typical lifespan: two to three yearsHow to help them last longer: Having the most welcoming sheets possible is key for both evening wind down time and a good night’s sleep.
“From a construction standpoint, think about replacing your sheets if they start to look thin,” says Lexie Sachs, Good Housekeeping Institute’s Textile Director. Sheets tear over time, especially with the friction of tossing and turning. She also notes that torn hems and discoloration are clear signs that new sheets should be on your horizon. “If they start to feel scratchy, it might be time to replace them.”

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Having two (or, ideally, three) different sets to cycle through will also help extend the life of your sheets, along with washing them once a week. “Some people don’t change their sheets for a long time and that’s really not good,” says Carolyn Forte, Cleaning Lab Director at the Good Housekeeping Institute. She points out that pillowcases are particularly prone to makeup stains and sweat. “Sheets and pillowcases hold on to all of those skin cells, so washing them every one to two weeks is important.”
Comforters and Duvets
Typical lifespan: 5 to 15 years

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How to help them last longer: Both comforters and duvets can have a lengthy lifespan if you rotate them out in the summer months for a lighter blanket or quilt, but their longevity also depends on the type of filling material used.
Down alternative duvet inserts are less expensive and great for people with allergies to down or feathers, but they need to be replaced once they begin to lose their shape. Goose down tends to hold onto its fluffy construction well, but is generally warmer than down alternative, making a summertime bedding swap pretty much a given. With both types, look for a duvet insert that uses a “baffle box” construction.
“Baffle box construction is where there are individual pieces of fabric within the boxes of the duvet so that it prevents the fill from shifting around,” says Sachs. “Otherwise, the filling can clump up easily.”
Preventing clumping is also critical when washing and drying duvets and comforters. “Make sure you use a large capacity washing machine and the “bedding” cycle, if your machine has one, because if [the duvet] is crammed in, there’s going to be friction, which means there’s going to be abrasion,” Forte notes. And when it comes to drying these snuggly staples, it’s important to fluff them up as thoroughly as possible—particularly those of the down variety. “You want to make sure your down is as dry and as fluffy as possible because it’s going to insulate you better,” she says.
Duvet and pillow protectors can also help lengthen the life of your bedding by adding an extra line of defense between the plush inner-material and the outside elements.
In the Kitchen
Dish Towels
Typical lifespan: one yearHow to help them last longer: “Dish towels aren’t going to be the same type of construction as bath towels,” says Sachs. “They’re a little bit less absorbent.” And while this means they’ll dry faster than bath towels, the downside is that they should be swapped out more frequently.
Forte recommends keeping one dish towel specifically for drying dishes, and another that’s only for drying your hands, rotating the hand towel as frequently as a hand towel in the bathroom. Dish cloths, on the other hand—which come into contact with food particles when they scrub dirty dishes—should be washed as often as possible to prevent odor penetration (ideally everyday or every other day).
In the Bathroom
Bath Towels and Hand Towels

Linger Home

Typical lifespan: two to four yearsHow to help them last longer: Loose fibers, fraying around the towel’s edges and loss of absorbency are all signs that it’s time to swap your towels out for a new set.
“Most bath towels have cotton loops that make them really full and absorbent,” says Sachs. “If the loops start to come undone so that you see stringy pieces of the towel, or the hems around it are unraveling, those are signs of wear.”
And while towels are extremely adept at drying off human bodies, they’re not so quick to dry on their own. If left in a pile on the floor or not hung-up to air out after a shower or bath, they stand the chance of developing mold, mildew and other bacteria that contributes to a shorter towel lifespan, and some musty odors. Forte recommends using a towel bar for hanging used towels instead of a hook (it helps them to air out quicker), and emphasizes that the faster you can get a towel up and drying, the fresher it’ll stay.

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100% Organic Cotton Turkish Dobby Design Hand Towels (Pair)
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Using the right laundering techniques can also do wonders for the longevity of bathroom textiles. Bath towels should be washed after at least every three or four uses, while hand towels and washcloths should be washed and rotated more frequently. Wash towels in warm to hot water, using fabric softener on occasion. (Avoid using it in every load because it has a tendency to coat fibers and trap hard water minerals, making the towels feel stiff.)
If your towels seem more scratchy than plush, a vinegar wash can help get them back to their normal, cozy feel. Add a half-cup of vinegar in the wash cycle and a half-cup of vinegar in the rise cycle —with no detergent—the next time you pop in a load, and that should do the trick.
In the Dining Room
Napkins and Tablecloths
Typical lifespan: 10 years or more (heirloom potential!)

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How to help them last longer: Napkins, tablecloths and runners can last a lifetime, with well-preserved versions frequently passed down from generation to generation. But stains are always a threat to the longevity of tabletop textiles.
“Make sure when a spill happens on your napkins or tablecloth that you blot it right away—get to it as quickly as you can,” says Forte. “Then don’t let it sit in the hamper or the laundry basket for a week — just wash it promptly.”
When a stain-making incident strikes with guests over, and you can’t exactly grab their napkin and run mid-dinner, have your washing machine pull double-duty as a soaking station after everyone leaves. “Use your washing machine to soak the napkins or tablecloth so it’ll keep the stains from setting. Then it’ll be easier to remove when you do have time to wash it,” says Forte.
Stains aside, how often to wash your napkins depends on how frequently and in what way they’re being used. Cloth napkins that mostly serve a decorative purpose might not need to be washed after each meal, but it goes without saying that any napkin that has touched someone’s mouth, nose or facial area should get an immediate wash.
Applying a stain repellant to tablecloths can also help it resist any potential red wine disasters before they occur, keeping your dining room showpiece pristine for years to come.
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Whether you’re hanging pictures or a new TV, a bit of wall decor does wonders to make a room feel cohesive and complete. But before you pick up that hammer to put the finishing touches on your space, stop to consider what it is you’re hanging.
To securely hang anything heavy — substantial pictures, wall-mounted shelves, a mirror, or tech equipment, for example — you’ll need to locate a wall stud, a vertical piece of framing within your walls, says Rachel Rothman, chief technologist and director of engineering at the Good Housekeeping Institute. Otherwise, whatever it is you’re hanging won’t have something sturdy to latch on to, leaving your piece susceptible to falling, which can damage your wall in the process.
Here’s how to find a stud in the wall quickly and easily, with or without a stud finder:
1. Locate the nearest light switch or power outlet
The most reliable method, find a light switch or a power outlet, says Rothman. Electrical boxes are typically attached to studs, so start by locating the one nearest to the area where you want to place something that needs a little extra reinforcement. Then, measure 16 inches from there, since wall studs are typically spaced 16 inches apart by code, she explains. (Some are placed 24 inches apart, so you may have to measure twice.)
2. Look for dimples in the wall
Though less reliable than the above method, dimples are a telltale sign of where drywall is fastened to the edge of a stud, particularly in plaster walls, says Rothman. You can sometimes spot these with the naked eye, but a flashlight can be helpful for illuminating any slight dimples in the wall. To try this trick, hold the flashlights upright, parallel to the wall.
3. Use windows as a guide
Windows usually have a stud on each side, but finding the edges can be tricky, rendering this method less reliable than the ones noted above, says Rothman. Still, when all else fails, locating the edge of your window and measuring 16 inches from there can help provide some general guidance.
4. Tap the wall
To verify whether or not you’ve found a stud without doing any damage to your wall, knock or tap the area gently with your hammer, says Rothman. If you hear a hollow or empty sound, tap a little to the left or to the right. When the sound is muffled, you’ll know you’ve hit a stud.
5. Drill a hole
No matter which method you use, you should always confirm your findings before proceeding to hang your piece. To do so, drill a hole in the wall. You’ll know you’ve hit wood (a stud!) if you feel resistance.
6. Fish around with a wire hanger
If you can’t find the stud even after drilling, there’s one more technique you can try: Grab a wire hanger and untwist it, fashioning it into a right angle. Use your new tool to fish around behind the wall, says Rothman. When the wire makes contact with a firm object, that indicates you’ve found a stud.
7. Try a stud finder app
Today, there’s an app for just about everything — and that includes finding studs. Most stud finder apps are magnetic, which means they rely on your smartphone’s built-in magnetometer to pinpoint metal objects inside the wall. While this can help you find a wall stud, it can also turn up a false positive, since the app may detect things other than studs, like nails or electrical wires, says Rothman.
8. Or just use a stud finder!
The easiest way to find a stud: With a stud finder, a handheld gadget, like this one, that does the hunting for you. To use a stud finder, decide where you want to hang your item, then place the stud finder in the approximate spot the mounting hardware would sit. Hold the tool flat against the wall, slowly sliding it horizontally to the left or right. Depending on your model, it will flash or beep to alert you to a stud.
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Whether you’re plotting out an expansive gallery wall or hanging a single piece of affordable artwork, it’s a relatively easy task the average homeowner can take on themselves. There are no power tools necessary — typically just a hammer, a nail, and a level.
But there are a few things you should know before you drive anything into drywall, plaster, or even brick — like what kind of hardware to use, how to choose the right height, and how to find a wall stud. The advanced planning is well worth the effort: It will save you from putting unnecessary holes in the wall, a mistake that can cost you both time and money.
1. Consider the wall surface
Drywall: If the wall you’re working with is made from drywall, you’re in luck — this is the easiest material to work with, since it’s an easy material to penetrate. Just be sure to locate a wall stud, since hanging directly on drywall won’t provide a secure anchor. If a solid stud isn’t available, it’s important to use a drywall anchor to hang pictures.
Plaster: These walls (often found in older homes) are a little trickier, as they have a tendency to crumble. Approach the process same way you would when working with drywall: Look for a wall stud for the most secure anchor. Just note that when hanging pictures on a plaster wall, it’s always a good idea to pre-drill your hole. To prevent crumbling, place a piece of painter’s tape on the wall before drilling.
Brick: If your walls are brick, you’ll need to use a wall anchor. And use a masonry bit on your drill to drill into mortar, not the actual brick.
2. Choose your hanging hardware
If you’ve ever looked at the back of a picture frame, you know there are multiple hardware options, including D-rings, sawtooth hangers, and wire. Some frames even come with more than one option. So which one should you choose? The short answer: It depends on what method you’re most comfortable with. Here, a few options:
How to hang a picture with a nail: A single nail can likely do the trick and is easiest method if the frame comes with a hook or sawtooth hanger, says Rachel Rothman, chief technologist and director of engineering at the Good Housekeeping Institute. This method also leaves the least amount of damage in its wake, since simple nail holes can be as small as pin dots. Driving the nail into a wall stud will offer the most support, especially for anything above about five pounds. Just be sure to drive the nail in at a degree angle, says Rothman.
How to hang a picture with wire: For greater stability, consider hanging your picture with a wire suspended between two D-rings opposite each other, says Rothman. The process is the same as it is when hanging a picture with nails, just two-fold.
And how to hang a picture without nails: If you’re hesitant to make any holes in your walls, adhesive-backed picture hooks and strips are great options for lighter frames. (Check the manufacturer’s specifications, but these options typically max out around 15 pounds, says Rothman.) These products are also great for plaster and brick surfaces, since these wall materials are more prone to crumbling and cracking.
3. Measure the ideal height
To measure the right height like a pro, memorize this fact: Eye level is approximately 57 to 60 inches from the floor, says Rothman. Since the middle of the painting should sit at this height, you’ll need to do a little bit of math to get it just right. Our GHI pro tip: Take the height of the frame, divide it by two, subtract the distance from the top of the frame to the hardware, then add 60.
4. Make sure it’s perfectly level
Once you confirm the height at which you’ll hang your picture, use a pencil to mark the wall. If you’re using a wire or more than one hook, use a level to ensure the marks are at the same height, says Rothman. If the room slopes, feel free to cheat a bit to make it look straight.
5. Finally, hang your picture
Now, you can finally put your decor on the wall. Once secure on the wall, use a level one more time, tweaking as necessary, to ensure everything is just right.
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