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      Studio Anne Holtrop creates gypsum walls that look like fabric for Maison Margiela store

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      Dutch architect Anne Holtrop has remodelled Maison Margiela’s concept store in London adding walls cast in textile moulds to reflect the brand’s garment construction techniques.Located at 22 Bruton Street, the boutique is laid out across 190-square-metres and displays Maison Margiela’s Co-Ed collections, with men’s and women’s ready-to-wear alongside accessories such as shoes, jewellery and eyewear.

      Gypsum partition walls separate the retail space
      The store features a pale, tonal colour palette in keeping with the Parisian label’s all-white studio, with the plaster walls and ceilings retained in their natural finish and floors and fixtures made from travertine.
      A number of the store’s walls and columns were individually hand-cast in textile moulds, leaving behind folds and dents to create the illusion of fabric billowing in the wind.

      Floors tables and shelving are made from carved travertine

      This unconventional casting method is intended to reflect a garment construction technique used by the fashion house that is designed to disrupt the “anonymity of the lining” and reveal the inner workings of a garment.

      Wooden curtain drapes around a lift inside Maison Margiela’s Milan store

      “The gypsum casts in textile formwork translate the ‘anonymity of the lining’ concept into an architectural element,” explained Maison Margiela.
      “After removing the textile formwork, the imprint of the textile remains visible on the surface of the walls and columns, together with the pleats of the textile and volume of the gypsum that pushed the formwork out. The walls and columns are turned inside out – we look at the lining, the interior of the wall.”

      The Bruton Street store houses clothing as well as accessories
      Holtrop, who founded Amsterdam-based Studio Anne Holtrop in 2009, installed items of “misfit” furniture throughout the space. Featuring familiar forms that have been warped and skewed, these were designed to lean and fold around the interior.
      To lighten the store’s travertine floor and carved fixtures – including shelves, display tables and seats – Anne Holstrop Studio developed a technique that involves filling the stone’s natural indentations with colour-contrasting epoxy resin in optical white.

      The gypsum walls are cast in fabric moulds
      “Normally the porosity of travertine is carefully filled with an epoxy in exactly the same colour as the stone,” explained the studio. “With an infill of white epoxy, the porosity of the stone adds an accurate drawing, a staining of the material itself.”
      The finish was inspired by another of Maison Margiela’s characteristic techniques called décortiqué, where haute couture technicians cut through the layers of a garment in order to reveal its construction.
      “All that remains is the skeleton, the core components, which enable you to recognise what the item once was,” explained Maison Margiela. “It entails cutting around the seams to emphasise the structure and detailing.”

      Indentations in the travertine were filled with white resin
      In contrast to the rest of the store, the walls and ceilings of the fitting rooms are coated in layers of hand-brushed, high gloss paint reminiscent of Japanese lacquer cabinets.
      According to Maison Margiela, the store reflects its “evolved visual language” which was developed by John Galliano after taking the helm as creative director in 2014.

      Changing room doors are finished with a high-gloss lacquer
      Holstrop’s gypsum-cast design was first introduced during the label’s Artisanal AW 2018 show, in which Galliano revealed the structures, interlinings and inner padding of clothes that would normally be concealed.
      Photography is by Henry Bourne.

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      Norm Architects bases jewellery store interior on the studios of Picasso and Matisse

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      Norm Architects used natural materials such as oak, clay, linen and travertine to create a jewellery showroom in Copenhagen informed by modernist artists’ studios.Located on Ny Østergade in the city’s old town, the flagship store belongs to jewellery brand Dulong and features an open-plan layout broken only by a few existing cast-iron columns.

      Dulong’s flagship store features travertine tables and counters
      Its “serene, soft and welcoming” interior is arranged much like a living room, with a curved sofa and round coffee table at its centre.
      To enhance the sense of homeliness, the local firm opted for natural materials such as oak flooring, clay walls, travertine display tables and caramel-coloured suede and linen curtains.

      The walls were finished with clay

      According to Norm Architects, the selection is intended to reflect the jewellery brand’s “timeless and exclusive” pieces but was also inspired by the studios of great modernist artists such as Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Romanian sculptor Constantin Brâncuși.

      Granite boulders feature in jewellery showroom by Richard Stampton Architects

      The oak parquet flooring is original, while everything else, including the clay walls, has been added.
      Burnished brass, glass and walnut feature as material accents across the store’s lighting, as well as in the bespoke furniture pieces that were designed for the space by Norm Architects.

      The studio kept the original oak parquet flooring
      A colonnade stretches across the entire back wall of the store in a nod to the neoclassical architecture of Copenhagen. Within each of its recesses sits a travertine plinth with a glass vitrine displaying an individual piece of jewellery or artwork.
      At the back of the store is a private room where customers can try on jewellery, alongside a separate kitchen space and restroom.

      A colonnade runs along the store’s back wall
      “The quality craftsmanship with which the jewellery has been designed is reflected in the carefully selected choice of finishes and elegantly feminine, balanced tonal palette,” said the Danish practice.
      Founded in 2008 by Jonas Bjerre-Poulsen and Kasper Rønn Von Lotzbeck, Norm Architects is renowned for its understated design and sensitive use of natural colours and materials.

      Linen curtains and suede-clad display cases feature throughout the space
      In Tokyo, the studio renovated a pair of formerly light-starved apartments to create “transparent” living spaces with concrete walls, wooden floors and simple furnishings.
      Meanwhile in Hamburg, the practice used oak, grey stone and yellow-tinted glass in a minimal makeover of a department store’s menswear section.
      Photography is by Jonas Bjerre-Poulsen.

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      Freitag store in Kyoto is designed to resemble the brand's own warehouse

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      Hazard lines and metal shelving are some of the industrial finishes that Torafu Architects has included in bag brand Freitag’s store in Kyoto – which even includes its own workshop.Freitag’s Kyoto store, which is shortlisted in the small retail interior category of the 2020 Dezeen Awards, occupies what was formerly two separate retail units in the city’s Nakagyo-ku district.
      The interiors of the store have been designed by Torafu Architects to look like Freitag’s logistics warehouse at the brand’s headquarters in Zurich, Switzerland.

      Top image: the store’s exterior. Above: hazard lines have been painted on some of the store’s surfaces

      Industrial-style details have been incorporated throughout the 80-square-metre space, which the architecture practice said they left in a “skeleton state”. For example, black-and-yellow hazard lines have been painted around one of the store’s structural columns.
      Similar lines appear beneath the green cash desk. Just opposite sits a matching rubber-topped counter where customers will be able to set down and inspect any potential purchases.
      PVC flap curtains were used to screen off the shop’s storeroom, which is enclosed by a volume clad in wood-wool boards. Simple strip lights have also been fitted across the ceiling.

      Freitag’s bags are displayed on metal shelves or stored in drawers
      Bags are displayed on metal shelves or on top of pallets which have been stacked up in the store’s front window.
      Uniform rows of drawers that run across the entire left-hand side of the store contain more Freitag bags, each of which is crafted from recycled truck tarpaulin.
      The brand first removes any eyelets or straps left on the tarps before cutting, washing and turning them into a range of different bag models such as backpacks, totes or holdalls.

      Freitag’s Sweat-Yourself-Shop is a tiny factory for making bags

      Towards the rear of the store is a workshop, where customers will be able to experiment with using tarp offcuts themselves and turn them into a small accessory of their choice.

      The store includes a workshop where customers can make their own accessories
      More industrial touches appear on Freitag’s facade, where a red-steel beam has been installed in place of the wall that once divided the two retail units.
      A large drawing of a truck has also been created on the store’s side elevation so that customers “never forget the origin of every unique specimen”.

      The store’s side elevation features a mural of a truck
      Torafu Architects was founded in 2004 by Koichi Suzuno and Shinya Kamuro. The practice’s Freitag Kyoto store will compete against four other projects in the small interior category of this year’s Dezeen Awards.
      Amongst them is an Aesop store in Shinjuku, which features a contrasting mix of steel and plaster surfaces.
      Also on the list is Small Icon, a tiny bakery in Yokohama that’s decorated in the same warm, golden hues as a loaf of bread.
      Photography is by Taichi Ano.

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      Issey Miyake store in Osaka is splashed with water-themed details

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      Seating that resembles bars of soap and pipe-like clothing rails appear inside this Issey Miyake store in Osaka’s Minamisemba neighbourhood, which was designed by Shingo Noma.The store, monikered Issey Miyake Semba, is shortlisted in the large retail interior category of the 2020 Dezeen Awards.
      Japanese designer Shingo Noma created the interiors to reference Osaka’s long history of maritime trade – the city’s port has been in operation since before the year 300 AD.

      The store’s exterior features a sculpture that looks like a tap

      “Linking the city of water, Osaka, with the continuous circulation of interesting ideas that bubble up from making things at Issey Miyake to the image of the store, I arrived at the design concept of a ‘fount of creativity’,” explained Noma, who is also art director of the gallery inside Issey Miyake’s Kyoto branch.
      “If you turn on the faucet, there will always be a gushing flow of interesting ideas.”
      Water-inspired decor details have therefore been introduced at every point in the store. A four-pronged silver sculpture that looks like the handle of a traditional tap has been mounted on the facade, just above the brand’s logo.

      Concrete covers most of the store’s interior
      Inside, on the store’s ground floor, garments are hung from bending metal rails that have been shaped to mimic water pipes.
      The same pipe-like tubing supports the display tables, which all feature white, glossy countertops – almost reminiscent of the inner lining of bathtubs or sinks.

      Naoto Fukasawa inserts Issey Miyake store into 132-year-old Kyoto townhouse

      Guests can relax on the white, blue and grey seating poufs that have been dotted across the room. Each one has a wide, rounded form and a raised lip running around its outer edge, emulating the shape of a bar of soap.

      The clothes rails and legs of the display tables are meant to look like water pipes
      The same fixtures can be seen down in the store’s basement, which also includes an exhibition space. At the time of opening, it showed a series of works by Japanese illustrator Seitaro Kuroda, including his various depictions of boats and ships.
      Surfaces throughout the store, including the floors, have been washed over with concrete. The ceiling and its network of exposed service ducts have been rendered in white.

      An exhibition area can be found in the store’s basement
      Issey Miyake Semba will go head-to-head against five other retail spaces in this year’s Dezeen Awards. Amongst them is high-end fashion store The Webster, which occupies a rotund, pink-concrete building in Los Angeles designed by architect David Adjaye.
      Also on the shortlist is the streetwear brand Supreme’s San Francisco store, where studio Brinkworth has installed a huge skateboarding bowl.
      Photography is by Masaya Yoshimura and Copist.

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      Recycled drink cans decorate exterior of Daily Paper's first US store

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      Over 13,000 flattened aluminium cans decorate the facade of Dutch fashion label Daily Paper’s inaugural shop in the US, which has opened in Manhattan, New York. The two-storey Daily Paper store spans 1,140 square feet (106 square metres) and occupies a prominent corner building in Manhattan’s Lower Eastside. Up until now, the brand has exclusively
      The post Recycled drink cans decorate exterior of Daily Paper's first US store appeared first on Dezeen. More

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      Freitag's Sweat-Yourself-Shop is a tiny factory for making bags

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      Swiss brand Freitag has created a shop in Zurich, which is a “micro-factory” where customers can help make their own bag out of recycled tarpaulins.Named Sweat-Yourself-Shop, the interactive retail space on Grüngasse was designed by Freitag to take their existing customisation options one step further.

      Freitag bags are made of recycled truck tarpaulins
      The 80-square-metre retail space was originally a standard shop for the brand but has been given a factory-style makeover.
      “We were looking for a unique pilot retail experience to reduce used truck tarp leftovers from our factory,” explained Freitag.
      “With the new shop, customers can get further involved by assembling their bag to their own taste and getting involved in the final production steps,” added the brand.
      “From now on, Freitag is transferring the final stages of production and the entire responsibility for the bag’s design to future owners, in our newly converted micro-factory.”

      Customers can operate a conveyor belt of material

      Founded in 1993 by graphic designers Markus and Daniel Freitag, Freitag specialises in practical bags made out of recycled tarpaulins.
      Used tarpaulin bought from trucking companies in Europe are cleaned, cut up and fashioned into bags. The material, polyester fabric coated with polyvinyl chloride (PVC), makes for durable and waterproof accessories.

      The shop is set up as a “micro-factory” for bags
      At Sweat-Yourself-Shop, customers can make their own shopper-style bag.
      The interiors of the micro-factory are designed to look “functional and industrial”, with grey walls and floors. Freitag painted all the machinery in Colour Index industrial green, the brand’s signature shade.

      The shopper bag is fully customisable
      A rainbow of tarpaulin panels are clipped to hangers dangling from a looped conveyor belt that runs along the shop’s ceiling.
      Customers can press a button to power the conveyor belt, bringing more colour choices out from behind windows of frosted glass.

      Customers can watch their bag being stitched
      Workshop stations allow them to pick out colours for the main bag and the outer pocket and watch them be cut and stitched together.

      Miniwiz creates pop-up store where rubbish is exchanged for recycled products

      “The sheer amount of colour choices for tarp pieces that go into the F718 BUH shopper will probably have our part-time bag makers in the new Sweat-Yourself-Shop perspiring more heavily than the production work itself,” joked the brand.

      The whole process is visible through big display windows
      Large windows frame the shop so that passersby can also watch the process from the street.
      Sweat-Yourself-Shop is shortlisted for Dezeen Awards 2020 in the small retail interior category, alongside projects including a tiny bakery in Japan and beauty brand Glossier’s Seattle shop that’s covered in moss.

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      Rammed-earth counter anchors Flamingo Estate pop-up in Los Angeles

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      Vibrant green walls surround a chunky rammed-earth counter in this garden-themed pop-up shop in LA that creatives Alex Reed and Dutra Brown have designed for lifestyle brand Flamingo Estate.Flamingo Estate’s Harvest Shop pop-up takes over a retail unit in Platform, a high-end shopping centre in LA’s Culver City area.
      The shop offers an array of the brand’s holistic products for the body and home, along with its range of pantry foods, which includes items such as extra-virgin olive oil, honey and dark chocolate.
      Many products are made with ingredients grown on the grounds of Flamingo Estate, which is tucked away in the hills of the nearby Eagle Rock neighbourhood. Its sprawling garden is host to 150 different species of flowering plants and shrubs, as well as a fruit orchard, vegetable beds and a hive of bees.

      A rammed-earth counter sits at the centre of Harvest Shop

      This lush landscape became a key point of reference for the pop-up’s designers, locally-based creatives Alex Reed and Dutra Brown.
      Together they sought to fashion a space that resembled “a small, secret corner of the estate itself…as if it was lifted from the earth and brought to the store”.

      An abstract sculpture perches on one end of the counter
      At the centre of the shop is a monolithic counter crafted from rammed earth. The bottom of the counter is inset with different-coloured fragments of stone, while the top features a cluster of white-tile blocks and platforms on which products are presented.
      To ensure the tiles could be used again post pop-up, a simple mixture of mud and earth was used as grout.
      A corner of the counter is dominated by an amorphous sculpture that Reed and Brown created using scagliola – a type of plaster typically made from gypsum, glue and pigments.

      A mural depicting trees and rolling hills acts as a backdrop to the counter
      “For Flamingo Estate’s first physical location, we looked to the company’s ‘hands-in-the dirt’ ideals of what is luxurious and covetable today,” the pair said.
      “We’ve utilized our respective expertise to design and build a project centred around materiality – this collage of organic material and sculptural form, together with provenance and fantasy, celebrates what we love about Flamingo Estate.”

      Frida Escobedo segments Aesop Park Slope with rammed-earth brickwork

      The garden theme continues onto Harvest Shop’s walls, where LA-based artist Abel Macias has painted a rich, green mural.
      “Richard [Christiansen, owner of Flamingo Estate] and I talked about a concept based around Snow White, the enchanted little forest that she lives in that’s sort of dark but very magical and green in a way,” explained Macias.
      “We came up with this landscape that’s rolling hills and swirly trees, keeping everything in the tonal green world so that it feels verdant and very lush [in the store].”
      Emerald-coloured paint covers a wall on the opposite side of the shop, which is mounted with rows of glass jars filled with various natural ingredients.

      Another wall is mounted with rows of glass jars
      Flamingo Estate is overseen by creative director Richard Christiansen. Beyond the estate’s garden lies a Spanish colonial-style house that, since the beginning of 2020, has operated as a chic retreat for creative people in Los Angeles.
      Its Harvest Shop pop-up isn’t the only retail project to have made use of rammed earth. Last year, Mexican architect Frida Escobedo applied rammed-earth bricks to the walls of an Aesop store in Brooklyn, New York, to emulate the facade of the brownstone townhouses seen around the area.
      Photography is by Adrian Gaut.

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      Fashion meets art inside Dries Van Noten's inaugural US store

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      Luxury fashion label Dries Van Noten has opened its first US store in Los Angeles, which boasts interiors filled with artworks from creatives across the globe.Dries Van Noten’s LA store takes over two buildings that sit on a huge parking lot along La Cienega Boulevard. The first building is a two-floor property that has been dubbed Big House, the second, called Little House, is a 1950s-era bungalow completely shrouded by ivy.
      Together the buildings measure 8,500 square feet (790 square meters), making this the Belgian fashion brand’s largest retail space to date.

      Dries Van Noten’s LA store is split into Big House and Little House

      Clothing collections are presented inside Big House, with womenswear on the ground floor and menswear up on the first floor.
      The brand’s in-house design team took charge of the interiors – founder Dries van Noten, who was stuck outside the US due to coronavirus travel restrictions, would “visit” the space every evening via FaceTime calls with staff members.
      Simple white-painted walls and concrete flooring appears throughout. A few elements in the store, like the accessory display plinths and chesterfield-style sofas, are a sunny shade of yellow – a colour deemed synonymous with Dries Van Noten’s brand identity.

      Big House displays the brand’s fashion collections
      Decor is provided by striking artworks from a roster of local and international creatives. Some pieces, such as the mixed-media collages by LA-based artist Jan Gatewood, have been executed directly on the store’s walls as murals.
      “I didn’t want to have that gallery feeling where everything is mercantile…it’s more like graffiti,” Van Noten explained.

      Artwork and musical instruments have been dotted throughout
      “While showcasing the Dries Van Noten collections this place will be a haven for creative encounters and gathering experiences that embraces the creative pulse of Los Angeles and its creative and fashion community” added the brand explained in a statement.
      “These experiences can be as light-hearted as they can be profound, yet they will always be welcoming to all and informal.”
      Sculptural furnishings by Rotterdam-based designer Johan Viladrich are also on display, as well as busts of tattooed human heads by Czech artist Richard Stipl.

      Big House includes an archive room that presents pieces from old Dries Van Noten collections. Photo by Jeff Forney
      Big House additionally includes archive rooms which are haphazardly plastered with old catwalk and campaign imagery of Dries Van Noten designs.
      Here customers are able to purchase pieces from past collections – some of which date back to the 1990s – and once health and safety restrictions have been lifted post-pandemic, re-sell garments from the brand that they no longer want.
      “It’s not only about sustainability reasons, but it’s the whole idea that a beautiful garment stays beautiful even if other people have been wearing it – and I like the idea that you have new clothes and old clothes all together in the same store,” added Van Noten.

      Foliage-filled plant beds line the outside of the store. Photo by Gareth Kantner
      To access Little House, shoppers must walk past a series of plant beds overspilling with tropical foliage, which were included in homage to Van Noten’s passion for gardening and the brand’s frequent use of botanical prints.
      The bungalow acts as an exhibition space which, going forward, will showcase different furniture, textiles, ceramics and photography from both established and emerging creatives.
      Currently on display is a collection of porcelain tableware created by Van Noten’s longtime friend, fashion designer Ann Demeulemeester, and Belgian brand Serax.

      Dries Van Noten pays homage to Verner Panton with colourful SS19 collection

      The brand also hopes that, in time, the parking lot can host large-scale events, and has plans to transform it into everything from a drive-in cinema to a food-tasting space.

      Little House will serve as an exhibition space. Photo by Jeff Forney
      Dries Van Noten’s Los Angeles store joins branches in Tokyo, Osaka, Singapore, Paris and a flagship in Antwerp – but the brand’s founder already has his sights set on opening the doors to a store over on the east coast of the US.
      “Of course the space is very important, it really has to be the right building – the moment we find that, we’ll be in New York.”
      Photography is by Jim Mangan unless stated otherwise.

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